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KingAlphyn's Noob-Friendly Tips

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KingAlphyn #1 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:21

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My objective is to create a handy garage-side reference for new players. Often I see folks who might have done better, hamstrung by poor garage management choices and various bits of misinformation which prevent them from using the tools and techniques that would help them to advance efficiently. Therefore, I am starting up a tutorial account to illustrate each point in turn, so that new or misinformed players may manage their non-battle decisions better. It is worth noting that all of what follows are simply my own opinions, built up over 5 years and 38,000 battles. There is more than one way to do almost everything, and my methods will not be 100% correct for everyone, but overall I think that the advice should be helpful.

 

 


WHEN FIRST STARTING YOUR ACCOUNT:

 

 

  • Do use an invite code if at all possible

You can only use an invite code at the moment that you first make your account. For some people it is useful to make an account, derp around with it for 50-100 games to learn the controls and confirm that this is a game they want to play, and then begin over again with an invite code to make their keeper account. An invite code might have 1000 or 2000 gold on it, or perhaps something like 500 gold plus a low-tier premium vehicle. They come in all shapes and sizes. You are not allowed to beg for invite codes on the world of tanks forums, but if you're resourceful on google or Reddit or something, you may be able to dig one up that'll work for you, since people post them all the time when they get one but already have an account. I've been told that they're dirt-cheap on ebay. Currently, all of this is unnecessary on the NA server because a free invite code WOTREDDIT is able to be used by everyone. This code worked as of June 3, 2016.

Spoiler

 

 

  • Do the starting tutorial

Ignore everything that the tutorial tries to teach you, it's not very well put together and does not even remotely simulate how the battles are going to be. Just blaze through it as fast as you possibly can. You want the 300xp, because that xp is going to prevent you from ever having to drive a completely stock tier-1 vehicle, which is helpful because stock vehicles suck. Upon finishing, you'll be able to watch the video tutorial. This is less useless, and does contain some worthwhile information if you have never played before.

Spoiler
 
  • Do immediately change your password
A number of years back, WG had a security breach, and as a result, offered 300 gold to anyone who changed their password. As of this posting, this feature is still active. It works only once. So whether you're new or not, if you haven't done this, do it. A couple of clicks, and you instantly get 300 gold.
Spoiler
 

 

  • Do use a reputable modpack

The earlier you start using mods, the better. Mods CANNOT change anything that the server does, since the game itself is run server-side, which means that everything a mod does is client-side and cannot affect the outcome of the game. However, the sorts of things mods CAN do include alerting you more quickly to tank fires, indicating more accurately how soon you will reload or repair, indicating more accurately where enemy fire is coming from, making the tech tree more intuitive, making transferring crews between vehicles easier, making over-target information more useful, adding information to the mini-map, making your garage and tank-skins more aesthetically pleasing or historically accurate, removing visual effects that bog down your machine's performance, and a variety of other functions. It is my belief that using mods effectively improves a player's win rate slightly, simply by enabling them to process more information and react to the situations more effectively. In the end, however, this is largely a matter of personal taste.
 

Reddit is a great place to find all of the mods in one place. LINK TO 9.15 MODS

 

Okay, once I have the ones I want, let's see how everything looks:

Spoiler


I haven't played a single game yet, but have 800 gold, 300xp, and 6000 credits. This will be VERY helpful for ensuring that I have a good start.
This brings me to my next points on managing these currencies:

 

 

  • Do be gold-frugal, the best time to spend gold is during sales

WG puts almost everything on sale on a rotating basis. Things you cannot buy without gold: Premium time, garage slots, barracks extensions, premium tanks, 100% crew transfers, 100% crew skill retraining, permanent camouflage, free-XP conversion. Goods that are not on this list can and should be bought with credits (including premium ammo and premium consumables). Never never never use the "exchange gold" button to turn gold into credits. The conversion rate is atrocious. You are FAR better off just using the gold to buy premium time, and playing a few rounds in some profitable tanks. For all purchases with gold: be patient and buy on sale. Your gold goes twice as far when you do this.
 

Spoiler

 

 

Every Thursday evening, the details of the weekend sale will go up on the website. This will tell you what's on sale, which tanks are earning extra XP, what the current missions are, and so on. The website will tell you what patches are coming up, and what is happening in them, as well as announcing special events (such as the cake contest, music video contest, gameplay tutorials contest winkwink, etc). During special occasions they may even put up public rewards codes for everyone. I have generated many thousands of gold for my account by simply pouncing on the opportunities as they arise. Seriously, take 10 seconds each time you play to check worldoftanks.com for current announcements, there are plenty of rewards to be had by doing so.

 

 

  • Do fix your settings

Here are some settings that I recommend:

  • Turn on "Reverse Inversion" to make the tank behave more like real world tracked machinery controls. This way, if you're holding down the A-key, and alternating W and S, you'll keep turning in the same direction, rather than stopping your turn each time you want to change vehicle direction. Get used to this early.
  • Turn battle recording on. This sends replay files to your replays folder, which are very handy, especially if you have to prove that someone was doing something you don't like. Each battle recording is approximately 1MB, so don't worry about this slowing your performance.
  • Most people also prefer to disable Assault mode.
  • Enable serverside reticle. This gives a crosshair which is the true direction that the server thinks that you're pointing, lag and all. Use this, always. You will be far more accurate for it.
  • Personally, I moved the 6-key to the spacebar, so that my fire extinguisher is always right under my thumb, and I'm not reaching for the 6 key in the middle of an intense fight. Saves me a lot of hit points. You may wish to do some re-mapping of controls once you get the hang of things.
  • Experiment with whether or not you like Dynamic Camera, this effects the motion of your camera while going over bumps and firing your gun. Some like it, some don't.

 

Here are my preferred settings, with important stuff underlined. At the time of this screenshot I didn't Enable Minimap Features because my mods already covered this, but you might prefer to enable them if you're running modless.

Spoiler

 


OKAY, LET'S PLAY


I'm not going to cover battle tactics here. There are many guides for that, LERT'S COLLECTION OF GUIDES and THE REDDIT USEFUL LINKS PAGE are excellent places to start.

One of the questions I'm asked the most by new players is "What line of tanks should I go up?" This isn't surprising, because the tech trees have had several years to get quite large and complex, with dozens of lines of vehicles. When I first started playing, I immediately got stuck in several awful grinds without the funds to change my mind and pursue alternatives. This is to be avoided.

My advice is to avoid artillery until you have a good handle on the game. UK, France, and China are more challenging to play and have more turds in the Tier 2 through 5 region. Don't start on these until you've got the hang of things. The American line that goes up the Stuarts towards the 57 Heavy is both expensive and difficult to run. Stay away until you have very solid in-game finances. The German scout line is difficult and expensive. Stay away until you're more experienced. Certain Tier 4 Lights Tanks have very bad matchmaking. (T-50, M5A1, Pz38nA, Luchs, M5 Stuart)  Do not grind these until you have good crews to put in them.

Okay, so that's a lot of things to avoid. What ARE the good lines for beginners?
I think that these are the good lines for new players to get to Tier 6, after which they'll be in a better position to experiment with other things:

 

USSR:

  • T-150
  • KV-85 
  • T34-85 via T-80

Germany:

  • VK 3001D
  • VK 3601H via DW2 or PzIVD
  • JgPzIV via Hetzer or Marder 38T

UK: 

  • Churchill VII
  • AT 8
  • Cromwell

USA:

  • Jackson via T40
  • Hellcat
  • M44 via M37 (If you must do artillery early on, then do it with the American line)

 

Of course there are a variety of opinions on this matter, but it is my belief that these are the clearest paths into effective Tier 6 tanks that avoid the worst of the awful tanks until you're ready for them with good crews and more experience and perhaps a reserve of free-XP. Once you have 3 or 4 of these recommended Tier 6s, you'll have a good enough foundation to spread out and try more difficult tank types. The objective in doing things this way is to avoid getting stuck in a terrible grind early on. Nothing sucks more than using up all your credits on a tank that sucks and having few alternatives for credits and XP. For the purposes of this demonstration account, I'm going to go up the Soviet Heavy lines.

 

The reason that it is important to have several good Tier 6 tanks early on is that these will allow you to participate in Tier 6 Clan Wars and Stronghold Skirmishes, which will help to increase the variety of your gameplay experience.

 

 

  • Use FreeXP on parts, never on vehicles

We want to have more fun in tanks and win more. To win more, we must avoid bringing stock tanks as much as possible. Every time you buy a vehicle with freeXP, you are condemning yourself to drive a stock tank at some point in the future (or present). STOCK TANKS SUCK. No matter how much freeXP you have, you will need it for parts at some time in the future. Getting all the upgraded parts on a brand new Tier 8 or Tier 9 eats through 100,000 xp like nothing, and if you burned off all your XP to buy the vehicle rather than the parts, then you're stuck driving it stock for 50-100 games. Your win rate and credit uptake will suffer for this. So unless you are the sort of person who will pay money (gold) to buy freeXP and skip over a vehicle, SAVE YOUR FREEXP FOR PARTS ONLY. This helps so much.


My tutorial account finds that the 300xp that we gained through the tutorial is exactly sufficient to purchase all of the parts that we want for the MS-1. Mission accomplished, now I don't have to drive this thing stock, even on my very first battle.

 

Spoiler

 

 

  • The best gun isn't always the top gun or the biggest gun

Quite often the opposite is true. Or sometimes you have many choices which are good in different ways. Let's take the MS-1 from my tutorial account and have a look at our gun choices critically.

 

Spoiler


Now, we can see that there are two clip fed guns (AKA auto-loaders): the 20mm and the 23mm. These guns tend to suffer from high dispersion, so they're only effective at very close range. We see that the 20mm has the highest alpha in a clip, while the 23mm has the highest dpm. Meanwhile the 45mm and 37mm are far more accurate,and have much higher penetration. This means that of their respective Damage Per Minute coefficients, more of the damage will actually hit and penetrate, particularly against targets with any appreciable armour or at any substantial range. The 37mm fires faster and weighs less, so my tank will be more maneuverable if I take it. Accuracy and aim time between the two are the same. The damage per minute on the 45 is higher, so for the moment, I'm going to mount the 45, so that I can fight at long range and deal lots of damage (I later switched to mounting the 20mm, which sucks against heavy armour, but is hilarious for unloading crazy damage into unarmoured targets)

 

But there are 4 legit gun choices here depending on what you want from the tank. The B-3 is better than the Hotchkiss in every way, so I've ruled that one out. On some tanks, the choice is clear, one gun is pareto efficient (equal or better in every way with no drawbacks) over all other choices, but on some tanks, you have to look at the numbers, and consider what your tank's role is in order to make the best choice of gun. This is not limited to low tiers. In the KV-1, we will face the choice between the 122mm, the 85mm, and the 57mm, each of which is very strong in a different way from the others. And even at tier 10 in the E-100 there is a choice between a more accurate gun and a higher damage gun.

 

This is generally only the case with the guns. Tracks and engines are always pareto efficient to simply move to the higher-level item. More rarely (and most notably on the M4A3E2), the top turret may not be the best turret, depending on who you ask. Know your choices, do the comparisons.

 

 

  • Never take a 50% crew into battle

Never never never EVER go into a battle with a 50% crew. You can get away with having a sub-par radio operator borrowed from another tank once you're at the higher tiers, but that's about it. A 50% commander means your view range is 3/4 of what it ought to be. A 50% loader means waiting 1.33 times as long for shells to reload. A 50% driver means turning slower, accelerating slower. A 50% gunner means shots straying wide and bouncing, and your turret turning slower. All of this means killing less and losing more. Now, since this demo account only has a few hundred gold, because I'm simulating a cheap newbie who hasn't decided whether or not he likes the game enough to put money or effort into attaining gold, I must instead play enough games in my Tier 1 vehicles to reach 70,000 credits. Don't be afraid of playing Tier 1. It never loses money, even if you suck.

By alternating between my MS-1 (playing a few different guns on it to experiment a little and learn more about my choices from the previous point) and my T1 Cunningham, I rapidly get to 70,000 credits (60,000 for crew, 10,000 for tank and parts and ammo). Now it's time to use those invest in a Tier 2. Most new players buy it the first chance they get, and play it stock with a 50% crew, and lose a lot. But we're going to be smarter than that so that we can play better and win more.

 

Spoiler

 

Some people transfer the MS-1 crew into the T-26, and eat the loss of the skills so that they can have an 80% crew for free. This is a waste of a 100% crew that cannot be easily replaced without gold, who we would prefer to stay in the MS-1 and continue valiantly fighting to make our credit pile bigger. We may not keep them in the MS-1 forever, but for right now they are happy making us the money that we need to advance.

With 70,000 credits, we have successfully avoided bringing a 50% crew to our first Tier 2 fights. Now to de-stock this tank a little bit. With that gold that WG started me off with, I'm going to convert some extra research to augment my freeXP, which, at 5% per battle, has not built up sufficiently to de-stock my Tier-2 tank. In fact, over time I'm going to use up most of the 800 gold that way, buying freeXP for buying tank parts to avoid playing stock tanks as much as possible.

 

 

  • Invest in your crews

Crew XP is a valuable, but somewhat hidden asset. The key is to ensure that as little of it escapes as possible, while also ensuring that what you do have is being well-used. So rather than let extra research build up on tanks, we will turn on crew acceleration as soon as each tank reaches elite status. A large reserve of XP on a tank after all available research is done is completely useless unless you intend to convert it to freeXP with gold. So, with all of this in mind, I'm going to sell away my Tier 1s, except for the T1 Cunningham and MS-1, which are currently my breadwinners. Tier 1 tanks cost 0 gold to sell, and 0 gold to buy, so it costs literally nothing to simply buy the tank back later and put the crews right back into them again. If I want to use the 100% crews in the Tier 1s later, I can do so without penalty. They are patient, they will wait for me. Selling the Tier 1s that I'm not using clears up garage slots for my tier 2, 3, 4, etc.

Accelerated crew training works like this: If your tank earns 500 XP for a match and has a 4-man crew, then really, you are earning 2,500 XP. That's 500 for each crewman, deposited right into his personal crewXP pool, and 500 for the tank, which is the number next to the research button. With Accelerated Crew Training on, the 500 that would normally be for the tank instead goes to the crewman with the least crewXP, marked with a gold highlight, as seen here:




So a large crew is a two-edged sword. On the one hand, if you have 6 men in your tank, you are simultaneously training up 6 men for later use. The 500xp from the previous example is being multiplied 7 ways (one for each man, one for the tank). Each crewman will be the special birthday-cake extra-XP man 1/6 of the time, resulting in a cumulative average bonus of 83xp each. On a 2-man crew, by contrast, your 500xp is being multiplied only 3 times, resulting in only 1500 total XP between the tank and crew, but the two crew each have the bonus half of the time, resulting in an average 50% boost to their individual XP uptake. In summary: Large crews train more men, small crews train fewer men faster.

Crew training over time is the reason that you should endeavor to do your x2 battles for each tank as often as possible. A single x2 battle in each tank goes a long way to building up strong crews. You will often hear about people that have 100+ tanks in their garages. I think these guys are crazy, because spreading battles out amongst that many crews prevents them from ever becoming really deadly. You can have 100 crews at 1 additional skill each, or a dozen crews at 3 additional skills each. In the former case, you're going into all your battles with 1 skill, in the latter case, you're going into ALL your battles with 3 skills behind you, which is very very nice, and helps you to WIN MORE. For this reason, I deliberately limit the number of garage slots available to me, and keep all of my crews in active tanks. DO NOT dismiss crew-men with extra skills on them. I have, and I've regretted it sorely.

One more point for this wall of text: if you send a crew to a new tank with credit retraining, they do not lose their secondary skills. So even while they take a hit down to 90% in their primary tank skill, that 80% camouflage bonus is still 80% effective all the while. Therefore, we're gonna let the little numbers circled below build up for awhile before these men get to go to a new tank. We're not making super-fast progress through the tiers, but we are building a solid foundation for a very profitable garage that sends out good tanks with good crews in them, and wins more. You want to win more, right? Of course you do.




Extensive additional information about the mechanics of crew-training can be found HERE.

 

  • Platoon, platoon, platoon


Think for a moment about how stupid the average person is. Then realize that half of them are even stupider than that. By platooning, you replace one or two of the morons on your team with reliable brosephs who will watch your back, who will concentrate force with you, and who will pool knowledge on various topics. This slows down the pace of your games, since you have to wait for your platoon-mates to die before you hop into your next battle, rather than just hopping from one to the next each time you explode, but you will win more. If you win more, your profit margin is higher, and you can advance faster.

 

It is important that you have voice-comms with your platoon-mates, ideally via a 3rd-party system like Skype, Raidcall, Teamspeak, Ventrilo, or whatevs. Only use the in-game comms as a last resort, because they suck. It is well-known that platooning can increase your win ratio if done effectively. A good platoon is a HUGE boost for your team. I think that making Tanks a social activity is more fun, personally. Platoon as often as possible, even if that means asking around in-game or in -*shudder*- the General Chat channel. If you absolutely must use in-game comms, it's worth noting that in the Settings Volume tab, "Microphone Sensitivity" is actually Microphone Volume. Begin your platoon by ensuring that your volume levels are good for each other in order to avoid blowing out eardrums.
 

Spoiler

 

 

  • Know the Matchmaker Chart

In order to platoon effectively, there is one last thing you need to know: The Matchmaker Chart. Since the whole platoon will be pulled into battles based on the HIGHEST upper limit and the HIGHEST lower limit, you need to know what those limits are. A detailed explanation can be found HERE. Ideally, you want your platoon's vehicles to have the exact same matchmaking. This avoids bringing lesser vehicles into a class of battle that is above what they are designed for.

 

STANDARD VEHICLES

Spoiler

VEHICLES WITH NON-STANDARD MATCHMAKING (as of 9.9)

Spoiler

 

Light blue represents light tanks, orange represents mediums, purple are heavies, red are SPGs, and green are TDs. 

Notice that light tanks of tier 5+ platoon perfectly with all other vehicles that are one tier higher than they are. This means that a Tier 6 light tank platooning with a pair of tier 7 medium tanks will be a good combo.


PERFECT PLATOONS:
KV-1 + M4 + T-34 ::: All same tier, no preferentials
AMX12t + KV-3 + Tiger ::: All same matchmaking, no preferentials
M40/43 + AMX50-100 + T28 prototype ::: All same tier, no preferentials
Pz1 + Pz1 + T7 combat car ::: All three get the same preferential matchmaking

MOSTLY OKAY PLATOONS:
T44 + Type59 + Type59 ::: 44 may pull the 59s one tier higher than they'd normally see, not a huge deal
T-28 + T40 + T14 ::: T14 will prevent the Tier 4s from seeing Tier 4 battles, not a huge deal
T-50 + KV-1 + KV-1 ::: T50 will not see Tier 4 battles in this platoon, whatevs
Pz1 + Pz1 + L.Traktor ::: Pz1s prevent Ltrak from seeing Tier 1 battles, no biggie

DO NOT DO THIS PLATOONS:
Locust + T46 + T21 ::: Locust and T46 are meant to go to Tier 5 max. T21 will bring them into a Tier 9 battle. BAD
MS1 + NC31 + T2Light ::: T2Light will pull the Tier 1s up to a Tier 4 battle. BAD
L.Traktor + L.Traktor + Maus ::: You are depriving your team of two useful tanks. If you do this, you will be hated. some consider it as BAD as teamkilling.
Valentine LL + B2 740f + AMX40 ::: The premiums are meant to only see Tier 4 battles. AMX will drag them up into Tier 6, where they will SUCK.

Do not make bad platoons. If you do, you will lose more. You will probably even be teamkilled for extreme examples of bad platoon construction.

In addition to the utility of the matchmaker chart for platoons, it is also important for cross-evaluating tanks. For example, by consulting this chart, one sees that the Valentine and the Valentine LL are both tier 4s. The differences in their capabilities should be considered in the context of the LL seeing a maximum of Tier 4, while the standard Valentine sees Tier 6. This is especially pertinent while evaluating Premiums for potential purchase, since many of them have preferential matchmaking and many do not. For example, when comparing the T-127 to the Locust, it's worth noting that the Locust will fight in Tier 5, while the 127 will not. As a general rule, premium tanks will be inferior to tanks of the same tier and class, but preferential matchmaking may compensate for this.

 

 

  • Keep at least one vehicle in each Tier

Many people sell off all their low-tier vehicles as they move up the tech trees. I suggest that you not do this. Keep one good tier-1 vehicle that you really like. Keep one good tier two, and a tier three, and so on.

 

This will prevent many of the common complaints that I hear from other people, and that I never suffer myself by following this rule. Things like: "I had to sell and buy a bunch of tanks and spend a whole bunch of gold just so I could participate in this low-tier tournament." or "Sorry guys, I can't participate in Medium Skirmishes because I don't have a Tier 6." Worst of all is when you get THAT GUY in platoons that's all eager to platoon with you, and as everyone is switching it up to get their daily x2 battles, THAT GUY whines about "Guys, I only have tiers 7, 9, and 10." THAT GUY sucks, and will not be platooned with as often as someone who has tanks in every tier that he's reached.

 

 

  • Prioritize x2 Battles

Or on Special Weekends, x3 or x5 battles. Getting that double-XP for the win is very handy, even if you don't need the XP for that particular vehicle's research. This is more XP for your crew, more XP to unlock parts, or whatever else you're using it for. Steadily doing all the multiplicative battles each day has huge effects over the long term. Once I had a large enough garage, getting all of my "doublers" was enough to keep all of my tank lines advancing quite steadily, pushing all of them patiently and efficiently rather than grinding the cuss out of a single line. This method takes longer to get to high tiers, but has positive effects on your garage building in the long run.

In short, it is better to play 10 different tanks 1 time per day, than the same tank 10 times in one day, so that over time, the XP-per-battle is as high as possible, and the most crews and tank lines have been advanced simultaneously.

 

 

  • Buy equipment and consumables efficiently

Tank equipment is essential to a good garage that wins more. I cannot tell you exactly what equipment to buy, because there are many theories about which 3 pieces are optimal. Personally, I'm partial to ammo rammers and crew ventilation. However, early on, there are a few tips for how to purchase efficiently. More information is found HERE.

  • DO put non-removable equipment onto tanks that you will keep indefinitely. The improvement in performance will pay off in the long run.
  • If you do not intend to spend gold (10 each) on demounting equipment when it comes time to sell a tank, then there are two ways to effectively buy equipment. The first is to wait for an equipment sale and stock up on binoculars, camouflage nets, and repair kits, all of which can be freely transferred from one vehicle to the next. The other method is to wait for an equipment sale and purchase whatever you want. Half-price equipment, which is later sold at half-price along with the vehicle has cost you an overall sum of zero credits, and improved that vehicle all the way along, at a cost of zero gold. It is like a free rental, really. If you have the credits to spare, buy extra equipment of types that are used on a wide variety of vehicles (ie vents). this ties up credits, but prevents the expenditure of gold. If you need these credits, you can simply sell the equipment after the sale ends for the same price that you bought it for.
  • If you must pay full price for your equipment, AND do not want to spend 10 gold to demount that equipment, then we will start with ventilation on the low-tier vehicles. Ventilation on light vehicles is only 50,000 credits, and gives a 5% crew bonus to all skills. The end result is a 2.5% buff to all stats. 2.5% more horsepower, 2.5% faster reload, faster aim, longer view range, and so on. Gaining small edges like this is important for winning more, and improving profitability. Being able to see further, for example, makes you more likely to be able to spot your own targets, and not have to share your damage earnings with a spotter, since credit for damage dealt is 100% if you spotted it yourself, but only 50% if someone else is lighting the target, with the other 50% divided amongst the spotter(s).
 
TL;DR version: Rather than rushing up into more higher-tier vehicles, my tutorial account is going to put good equipment on the vehicles that I do have, when a convenient sale comes along, and make good use of swapping around some camouflage nets and binoculars from tank to tank so that just one or two sets of equipment can service many vehicles.
 

 

  • Keep the tanks that you like to play

I see people dump their favourite tanks all the time, just so that they can continue up one line or another. Do not do this. If you hate a tank, by all means sell it. But if you enjoy a tank lots, then keep it. The next one won't go bad, it'll be there when you're ready for it. On my main account (KingAlphyn), I still haven't bought the E-50M, and I unlocked it two years ago. Why? Because I love the tier-9 E-50, and I like my German medium crew right where they are. As new tank lines come out, I try them, and if I love anything new more than what I had previously, then the new vehicle becomes my permanent vehicle for that tier. My love of the T-46 surpassed my love of the Locust. My love of the Cruiser IV surpassed that of the T-46, and so on. So my preferred Tier 3 evolves over time, but I always have my favourite vehicle in that tier ready to go.

Speakings of, let's see how the tutorial account is doing so far:

Spoiler


Overall the account is off to an excellent start. The win numbers and experience uptake are great. I haven't had to play ANY stock tanks, or spend ANY actual money.
 

You can see that it has now acquired a T-28. At tier 4, it is time to start doing the Stug IV series of  Personal Missions, located in the missions tab in the top left corner of the garage. Start doing these early, because the extra credits that they give are very valuable to your early account.

 

Spoiler

 

 

  • Decide Whether or Not a Clan is for You

People ask when is the right time to get into a clan. The answer for that is "Depends on what you want from a clan." If you just want people to platoon with and hang out around, then you can start hunting for a social clan almost immediately. Some clans out there like Reddit and Armed expand indefinitely and will take virtually anyone, but the large environments can be somewhat daunting. There are lots of social clans out there, and many of them are very friendly and active. 

 

What you want in a social clan is the following:

  • A Teamspeak, Ventrilo, or Raidcall server. Voice comms are the lifeblood of any clan, be it serious or social. Be sure to equip yourself with a mic, even if it's just a crappy $10 headset, this will make your platooning experience much better. For some folks, this is not logistically plausible, because they're deaf or have little children around all the time or they play at work or something. In this case, you're better off building a friends list than joining a clan.
  • An active leader or leadership core. Having officers to coordinate activities, settle disputes, maintain the voip server, etc is important. Any clan whose officers wander off will inevitably stagnate into a list of a few dozen names of people that are never around anymore.
  • An atmosphere that you have fun in. There are lots of clans out there filled with bad vibes. You are not obligated to stay with a particular clan that you joined if you don't like the environment that they offer. Plenty of fish in the sea, after all.
  • Attendance on the aforementioned voip. If a clan is inactive and nobody ever bothers to show up on the voip, then it probably won't be very useful to you.

 

If you have under 1,000 games played, a social clan is a great place to start. Once you're in the 2,000 to 5,000 range, you can start looking into strongholds and introductory clan wars focused clans. These are not mutually exclusive with social clans, and you're looking for all of the same qualities, but these clans take shots at clanwars even with sporadic teams, and organize larger activities like tournament and company battles.

 

Once you've played enough that you have at least one tier-10 vehicle, you can start hunting around for a Clan Wars focused clan. These will generally have more strict attendance requirements (ie 2 nights a week) because the game limits clans to 100 members, and they must make efficient use of each member. There are as many philosophies about what makes a good clan out there as there are clans, so it's really up to you to decide what it is that you want. Avoid applying to clans that are well above your skill bracket, because some can be nasty about rejecting you. Most clans publish their expected skill requirements on either their WoT clan page, or else in their page in the recruitment thread. Don't be afraid to shop around to find the clan that's the right fit for you.


Edited by KingAlphyn, Jun 06 2016 - 20:51.


KingAlphyn #2 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:23

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OP last updated: June 3, 2016

raywood #3 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:26

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View PostKingAlphyn, on Oct 01 2013 - 07:21, said:

I've earned 16,000 gold from scavenger hunts, 28,000 gold from creative contests, 2,000 gold from Rampage's tank companies, and probably 15,000 gold or so from performance-based contests. Altogether, that's more than enough to pay for two full years of premium. And some of these weren't even very hard.

And a Type 59........

smiley119 #4 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:29

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Brilliant Write up King but pity the people that should see this stuff ... don't venture the forums ... much ... ( . , .)

KittehKing #5 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:31

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*
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Where's the section on how to win gold through contest rigging?

FlamingTier #6 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:32

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Great guide, +1

Krontimus #7 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:36

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This is my motto that I use every battles.

Use your cover, help your team, stay undetected, don't spread your fires instead focus on one and not all at once, kill the enemy, don't leave them alive, stay in constant motion to avoid artillery fire, and be unpredictable.

BountyHunter177 #8 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:41

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View Postsmiley119, on Oct 01 2013 - 07:29, said:

Brilliant Write up King but pity the people that should see this stuff ... don't venture the forums ... much ... ( . , .)


Wulfshark #9 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:43

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this needs sticky

Kyonn #10 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:44

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I like it when guides have pictures in them. Good guide btw. :D

KingAlphyn #11 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:47

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I'm going to bind this to a simple URL, and paste that URL into every T1 battle. :D Something like www.LearnToTank.com or something equally simple that just redirects to this thread. I'll put it in general chat, T1 battles, and encourage others to do the same. But I'll wait until I actually finish this thing first. Like it says, I'm only halfway done.

Laera #12 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:49

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Excellent tips, KingAlphyn! Consider it stickied.  :smiles:

ComradeHX #13 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:53

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Dynamic Camera needs adjustment on config files.

But other than that it is somewhat useful when shooting on the move(keeps reticle horizontal instea of shaking up and down).

bacebll101 #14 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 07:58

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How do you view your own replays?

KingAlphyn #15 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 08:00

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View Postraywood, on Oct 01 2013 - 07:26, said:

And a Type 59........

I buried that somewhere, and now I can't find it.

KingAlphyn #16 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 08:01

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View Postbacebll101, on Oct 01 2013 - 07:58, said:

How do you view your own replays?

You close the WoT client, then you go to your WorldofTanks folder, open the Replays folder within it, and double-click on the game you want.

DirtyPicklez #17 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 08:02

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View PostKittehKing, on Oct 01 2013 - 07:31, said:

Where's the section on how to win gold through contest rigging?
[Inappropriate Image Removed]
Warning Issued. Please keep it classy. :)
~ Laera

Edited by Laera, Oct 01 2013 - 18:25.


KingAlphyn #18 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 08:06

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Neg Reps? What is wrong with you?

I am sad now.

Posted Image

Shardmind #19 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 08:08

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Remind them to press = to increase size of minimap (standard is atrociously small). Seems comprehensive so far and a good guide for newbies. Might be a right good idea to explain the characteristics of the proposed progressions for newbies so they can decide what is best for them.

KingAlphyn #20 Posted Oct 01 2013 - 08:20

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Yes, I agree. Will develop this further tomorrow.





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