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mongoosejake #1 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 03:45

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Just as an intro to this topic, which is something I've been pondering on taking the time to do for some time... This will be a topic where I put up things that while intended to specifically share tips and info along with reviews that are aimed at newer players could end up being useful for many others as well.

 

I'll post reviews of tanks, some replays, and tips/tricks, and a few guides. My first will be something that one of my clan members specifically requested, a set of reviews leading up to the mid tier German heavies.



mongoosejake #2 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 03:56

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So you want a Tiger do you?  Here's a bit of a guide for each of the tanks that you'll have to play in order to get the famous World War II tank, the tier 7 Tiger.
 
-Disclaimer: I personally have played and Ace'd each of the tanks that are included in the reviews that follow, but will be skipping the tier 1 Ltraktor. Anyone can make it through that tank in a few battles win or lose, and you do not need a extensive review of it (I played the thing far too much when I first started and racked up 149 battles in it, but I certainly had no need to play it that much and at this point won't play tier 1 outside of clan based training room antics). 
 
-The replays you see included here are all from my playing session yesterday evening, so they are quite recent.
 
Without further ado, here are the tanks you must play in order to reach the mighty Tiger:
 
The Pz II 
 
 
A tier 2 German light tank that actually saw combat in the earlier stages of WWII, the Pz II chassis then became the basis for many improved tanks and also TD's and even SPG's that saw combat and many are here in the game as other re-searchable German vehicles. The Luchs, Marder II, Wespe and others are all descendants of the tiny Pz II.
 
Here in the game, the Pz II is a tier 2 light tank that has enough frontal armor that you can angle and bounce shots from the many auto-cannons that you'll face. Speaking of auto-cannons, the Pz II's own auto-cannon is fairly dynamic with fairly good pen, tight grouping of shots, and a speedy reload. The Pz II is only mediocre in regards to mobility, held back by a weaker engine but still retaining nice agility in tight quarters. Use the agility to keep enemies shooting at your frontal armor if they try to circle you, or to pull off circling tactics of your own against slow enemies such as the H35 where you'll have much better success shooting its sides and rear rather than the thick angled frontal armor it has. To make the best usage of your own armor, keep your sides covered, and even use hull down (this is the tactic of hiding your hull behind cover or below ridges and only exposing your turret) positions to augment your armor, which you'll see in the replays that I use this often in the Pz II.
 
Here's a typical Pz II battle on Mittengard: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785100#mittengard-mongoosejake-pz_kpfw_ii
 
And here's a typical Pz II battle on Himmelsdorf: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785099#winter_himmelsdorf-mongoosejake-pz_kpfw_ii
 

Summary: Basically, the Pz II is a tier 2 light that while not overly fast, it is agile and respectably durable while carrying a auto-cannon that can be a threat to most any tank you'll fight. Play it mainly as a close to mid range peek-a-boo tank and you'll do well.

 

-I set my Pz II up with vents, camo net, and binoculars (the net and binocs are easy to move on and off the tank, only the vents require gold).

 

-My crew is training in camo on all members and that is what I'd recommend even if you decided to keep the tank, as stealth will allow you to close the distance and get into closer range where your gun is more effective.

 
 

 



mongoosejake #3 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 04:00

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The next tank in this series on the way to the Tiger is the: Pz III A

 

 

 

A prototype light tank that was intended to place a premium on mobility for recon, the Pz III A never really got off the ground in real life. It was considered weakly armored and had suspension issues that held it back.

 

Here in WoT, the Pz III A is very lightly armored but extremely mobile. It makes for a decent active scout, but I prefer using its speed to get to key passive spotting positions very quickly before enemies even have a chance to spot and counter. The 5cm/L42 gun has poor accuracy on the move, and barely adequate accuracy when stationary, but packs the best pen and damage of all the guns, and is my choice for allowing me to be able to pen and damage tough tier 4's and 5's. The 5cm even with it's poor accuracy is still more than sufficient for close range circling, which the Pz III A excels at in late game situations where enemies are isolated and easy to pounce on.

Regardless of where you find yourself on the team list, you have to play wisely. The fraction of armor you have will not bounce anything, so you must basically play the same while top tier or bottom tier. Use concealment as much as possible, and early on in the game spot and snipe at targets of opportunity when you are positive you are not in danger of being spotted yourself. 

 

-Watch out for Pz1c's, they are your absolute worst enemy, as the tiny tank moves so quickly it's hard to land shots on target with the 5cm, and the Pz1c's machine gun can shred you without breaking a sweat.

 

Your gun has 60mm of AP penetration and 96m of APCR penetration, so learning what tank you can damage with AP, and which require the premium APCR is going to start becoming key to your success in any tier 3 tank and up. A quick rule of thumb is that your AP is good for any light tank you'll face (aside from the AMX 40), good against most any medium in tier 3 or 4 (aside from the Matilda), and most all TD's (aside from the Hetzer or Stug III G frontally, or AT2) you'll face. APCR will be needed for most every heavy, so keep that in mind and carry enough to do the job and remember to save it for the key moments (don't spam it at everything, learn to adjust your ammo for the target at hand as much as possible).

 

Here's a replay showing what it takes to Ace the Pz III A in a tier 5 battle on Ensk: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785098#ensk-mongoosejake-pz_kpfw_iii_ausf_a

 

Summary: The Pz III A is a very fast but ultra fragile tier 3 light tank that has a finicky gun that can still spot and deal damage even while bottom tier but needs to be played carefully in order to succeed. Its play-style is eerily similar to the RU-251 (which gets a much more behaved weapon) tier 8 German light, so keep that in mind.

 

-Equipment for the Pz III A is again vents, camo net, and binoculars.

 

-My crew is a fresh crew, but camo is where I'd start training if you were keeping the crew in this tank long term. I'd then grab 6th sense on the commander ASAP, as a tier 3 light will be bottom tier often and being able to avoid taking hits is the only way you'll survive.

 

 



mongoosejake #4 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 04:02

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The next tank in this series is: The Doom Wagon Deuce, or DW2

 

 

The DW2 was a 1938 prototype that never materialized into anything other than a test tank.

 

Here in the game, it's a tier 4 German heavy that gets special match making that allows it to never ever see a tier 6 tank. DO NOT platoon the DW2 with anything other than the French B1, the Japanese Type 95, or tier 3's with regular MM and you'll never fight O-I's ever again.

 

The DW2 has 50mm of armor all around, which for a "heavy" does not sound like much. The thing is that the armor is consistent on all sides, and those huge tracks add a literal ton of spaced armor that can be put to great use if you sidescrape (put your front into a rock or building, and then angle your hull while reversing out only enough to be able to fire your gun). 

 

Onto the best weapon: The 5cm/ L60 has an extremely great rate of fire with my current setup reloading in just a tick over 2 seconds. This is the key to the DW2: absolutely withering DPM. The issue you'll run into is the 5cm's 67mm of AP penetration, which is not sufficient for a number of tier 5's or the Matilda. A secret is the 5cm's absolutely sizzling APCR shell that basically doubles the penetration to 130mm, which is great! I keep my ammo load split down the middle at 50% of each, and with a 2 second reload you can swap ammo at will for whatever target is at hand. Again like I said with the Pz III A, don't just spam premium but rather learn to use the appropriate ammo for the target in front of you.

 

The DW2 has enough mobility to get around, but is nothing more than just adequate in this regard. You can pivot well enough to keep enemies in your sights, but the fact is that your armor is the same all around so many fast low tier light tanks are going to have some issues penning you period. You are basically Pz1c proof, and will simply get steel walls from them, and you don't have a true weakspot to cover.

 

Contrary to the popular belief that the DW2 is a terrible tank, in my eyes it is a absolute beastly tank that really takes your enemies by surprise when they all of a sudden confront one that is not played with the driver's eyes closed and keyboard shut off. This tank is a hidden treasure for anyone willing to play it to it's strengths and no try to force it to cater to them. It has protected MM, and a DPM based gun that tears apart tier 3's and 4's like paper and can still bring down tier 5's with fair aiming and APCR.

 

This replay is proof of what the tank can be capable of: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785097#serene_coast-mongoosejake-durchbruchswagen_2

 

-Equipping my Doom Wagon Deuce, I chose vents for more glorious DPM, a spall liner to specifically combat Hetzers and other common HE spewing machines in tier 4/5, and optics so that while leading the charge (or attempting to save a game when all my allied light tanks are long dead) I have a bit more view-range to avoid losing the vision battle.

 

-My crew is still in progress, but I went Recon for my commander to gain a bit more view-range, Snap Shot for the gunner to aid in quick firing while moving the turret, and clutch braking on the driver to help with hull traverse. I'll toss Situational Awareness on my radio operator for more view-range, and then repairs for the loader (loader skills are mostly garbage although intuition is useful on guns that fire as fast as the German 5cm does).

 

-Summary: The DW2 is a often criticized and insulted tank that is actually one of the greatest hidden sleeper tanks in the game. The catch is that it requires the player to be willing to play it the way it needs to be played, not force it into your own desired play-style.



mongoosejake #5 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 04:06

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Next tank you'll find as you work towards that goal of having a Tiger is: the Vk30.01H

 

 

The Vk30.01H was the next attempt to prototype a heavy, and again did not amount to much other than a number of the turrets getting re-used in defensive fortifications, and two hulls being made into a big slow TD mounting a huge 128mm gun, aka the St. Emil.

 

In-game, the Vk30.01H is a direct extension of the DW2's playstyle of a lighter armored heavy tank that relies on DPM, but this time around the top gun doesn't need the APCR anywhere near as much. In fact, the pin point accurate Waffe (formerly known as the Konisch) has the best penetration values of any tier 5 heavy tank gun on both the AP and APCR. If the 157mm AP pen isn't enough, the ridiculous 221mm APCR sure better be.

 

As far as play-style goes, not much changes from how you should have properly played the DW2. Your armor is lacking, so sidescraping is a must, and when mid tiered or bottom tiered you become second line support, dishing out steady and accurate fire. The Waffe really is the key to this tank's success and is in my opinion the best weapon on any tier 5 tank (not including TD's). That gun is simply laser like with it's accuracy, has great rate of fire, and with aim can pen anything with absolute ease. Those attributes also lend the weapon to being fine for auto-aiming at point blank ranges, as it will readily hit and pen most everything even without proper aiming. Both steady aiming and snap-shot auto aiming can be seen in my replays.

 

High Caliber on Erlenburg: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2786131#erlenberg-mongoosejake-vk_30_01_h

 

Ace Tanker, Top Gun, High Caliber with over 2200 damage and 7 kills on Ensk: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785096#ensk-mongoosejake-vk_30_01_h

 

-My equipment includes grousers (to help mobility in any way), gun rammer (I always mount a rammer if the tank has the option), and vents for all around performance boost

 

-Much like the DW2, my commander has recon, gunner has snap shot, driver has clutch braking, and both the radio op and loader have repairs (went repairs on both here due to other players knowing more often to de-track at this tier)

 

Summary: The Vk30.01H is all about the gun, and that gun is a incredible one. You should not fear being bottom tier with this tier 5 heavy, as you can accurate put shots on target and reliably pen even the toughest tier 7's. Your armor and mobility aren't great, but with the gun it carries, the Vk30.01H is tied for my favorite tier 5 heavy (other is the T1 Heavy). If you prefer consistency and a accurate gun, this tank would suit you better than the others in the same tier.



mongoosejake #6 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 04:09

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The next tank in the series is: the Vk36.01H

 

 

The next step in heavy tank development, the Vk36.01 led to a few design ideas but other than the hulls being re-used, it never truly saw combat.

 

In-game, the Vk36.01H changes the way the German heavies are played. Whereas the Vk30.01H could not rely on armor even while top tiered, the Vk36.01H can actually be a true bully-ish heavy on the front lines due to it having double the frontal armor of its predecessor (100mm vs the 50mm of the Vk30.01H). You can still use the Waffe as your top gun, as it truly is that good to still be an effective weapon even when bumped up a tier. However, I myself prefer the additional alpha damage of the 8.8/L56 (that recently saw its pen get increased to 145mm with AP) as the Waffe starts to feel a bit low on alpha for a heavy tank now that you are always facing tier 6-8 tanks that often have 100mm-122mm weapons with much higher alpha damage. It's still a fairly great gun, and is the better choice when bottom tier still, but the 88's alpha has won me over so that I can be the bully that the Vk36.01H feels like it was intended to be. 

 

You've gained a noticeable amount of armor, including a decently tough turret that can now allow you to go hull-down fairly effectively, and sidescraping is quite viable. Your mobility isn't great, but has improved and now if you can get the Vk36.01H pointed downhill, it'll hit that 50 kph top speed and becomes a pretty good ramming tank against lighter enemies.

 

When top tier, you need to be a frontline force to be reckoned with. Mid tier, follow the tier 7 heavies closely and assist with extra shots on distracted/reloading enemies, take a hit or two, and generally be a watchful ally to keep the top tanks from getting overwhelmed. When bottom tiered, you will struggle against tier 8 heavies, so consider following the mediums and helping them. You'll likely encounter enemy lights and medium who will be vulnerable to your DPM and not pose a problem in regards to your pen. 

 

In spite of this being a loss, this Ace Tanker battle on Overlord in tier 7 shows what the Vk36.01H is capable of, with me dealing nearly 3500 damage while trying to drag out the win: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785093#overlord-mongoosejake-vk_36_01_h

 

-Equipment wise I have both a gun rammer and vents to maximize my DPM out of the 88, and I actually am running a spall liner to reduce the damage I take from all of those howitzers at tier 5. The armor is thick enough that combined with the spall liner it really drops the effectiveness of all of the HE hits you'll take in the mid tiers.

 

-Crew skills include my commander having 6th sense and working on recon, gunner training in snap shot, driver working on clutch braking, and radio op and loader working together on repairs.

 

Summary: The Vk36.01H suddenly gives the Germans a front-line heavy that can handle being a bully and taking on the enemies at point blank range. It still is more DPM based than high alpha, but the 88/L56 gives it a boost in alpha that helps level the playing field against the bigger guns.



mongoosejake #7 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 04:12

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Finally, the Tiger!

 

 

-The Tiger is the most famous of all tanks to most people. It garnered a fearsome reputation that may have been majorly over-blown in reality,  but still was quite the combat vehicle when it could stay operational. High maintenance and reliability issues along with massive manufacturing requirements really held the tank back, but when a enemy actually had to face the end of the Tiger's 88, it didn't normally like the result.

 

In-game, the Tiger will be a massive let down to the newer player expecting a rolling machine of doom that is tough as nails and kills its enemies in one shot. That is the furthest thing from the truth. To be honest, the Tiger reverts back to the play-style of the Vk30.01H, relying on a truly great weapon to influence battles more than sheer armor toughness. 

 

The Tiger gets the 8.8 L/71 weapon with 203mm of AP pen, great accuracy and a very nice reload. This is what the tank is all about, on top of being decently mobile and having a bunch of hitpoints to fall back on rather than armor. 

 

Now, this is not to say that you cannot make use of what armor you do have. Much like the previous two tanks, the Tiger's boxy shape lends itself to sidescraping quite well. Do this anytime you find yourself forced into a urban map setting and you will greatly increase your chances of survival. 

 

Your main goal is to be a second line firing platform for the quick reloading long 88mm gun. That gun is capable of bringing down anything you face, even at long range. Now, don't take that as meaning "MongooseJake said the Tiger is supposed to snipe at all times". That'd be wrong. I routinely push on the front lines, I just hide my hull as much as possible, and hang right behind my tougher teammates, especially when middle or bottom tier. 

 

The Tiger is a very versatile heavy, but you need to go back to what I've said about the DW2 and Vk30.01H. Your gun is the key. Keep that DPM going as much as possible, angle when in the open, sidescrape and hulldown when you can, and remember that the Tiger can get around fairly well. 

 

I make use of most of that here in this fairly good game on Arctic Region among a swarm of both allied and enemy heavies (the most in one battle I've seen in a long time): http://wotreplays.eu/site/2785091#arctic_region-mongoosejake-tiger_i

 

-Equipment wise: I use a rammer and vents for max DPM and a slight boost in performance across the board, and optics to enhance the Tiger's fairly good viewrange (avoids being easy prey for mediums).

 

Crew skills: 
-Commander has 6th sense, BIA (once the rest of the crew completes their second set of skills, they'll get BIA as well), and Recon (again, the Tiger has fairly good viewrange, I end up doing a decent amount of spotting myself).
-Gunner has Deadeye and Snap Shot to enhance the aiming time while moving the turret and get extra critical damage out of the 88
-Driver has Clutch Braking and Off Road Driving to boost the mobility a bit (I stay mobile with my Tiger often)
-Radio Operator and Loader both get firefighting and repairs for now, will be swapped at a later time

 

Summary: The Tiger is the DPM king of tier 7 heavies, and can be capable of contributing regardless of where it finds itself on the team list, much like the Vk30.01H. Don't count on the armor to do the job for you, but do take steps to accentuate the armor's capabilities to help you survive by sidescraping, going hull down, using hard cover, and if stuck out in the open angle in a diamond pattern to give the boxy hull some angling. The Tiger isn't the monster that many people make it out to be in places like the History Channel, but when played properly it's extremely capable here in World of Tanks. 

 

It just so happens to be my favorite tier 7 heavy. Hope the long read was worth your time and you enjoyed the effort put into this guide of mine on the path to the Tiger!



iAmEbola #8 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 13:08

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Awesome stuff MongooseJake.  I am REALLY eager to play the DW2 just for the gits and shiggles; it sounds like my cup of tea.  Overall, it sounds like a fun line to play and most of the tanks in this line sound like they'd be great keepers.  

 

I look forward to more line progression reviews for other tanks as well.  

 

Thank you for this.



GAJohnnie #9 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 15:01

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Bookmarked!

BlackwaterXe #10 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 15:03

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View Postmongoosejake, on Jun 29 2016 - 18:45, said:

Just as an intro to this topic, which is something I've been pondering on taking the time to do for some time... This will be a topic where I put up things that while intended to specifically share tips and info along with reviews that are aimed at newer players could end up being useful for many others as well.

 

I'll post reviews of tanks, some replays, and tips/tricks, and a few guides. My first will be something that one of my clan members specifically requested, a set of reviews leading up to the mid tier German heavies.

 

If you haven't already, you have 2 hours left to post your guides here to enter a contest to earn a Type 59: http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/500813-type-59-contest-create-a-wot-guide/#topmost

GAJohnnie #11 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 15:11

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To All
 

 

I have a crew training question.

 

I moved my T34/85 crew to the KV-13. I moved my T-34 crew to the T-34/85. I trained my spare Rudy crew for  the T-34. My Kv-13 and T-34/85 crews are working on the 3rd skill.  My question is which crew should I use in my Russian premium mediums. Should I grind up my T-34 crew since it is the lowest skill crew or should I use my KV-13 crew to keep them progressing to finish their third skill?



mongoosejake #12 Posted Jun 30 2016 - 23:42

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View PostGAJohnnie, on Jun 30 2016 - 09:11, said:

To All
 

 

I have a crew training question.

 

I moved my T34/85 crew to the KV-13. I moved my T-34 crew to the T-34/85. I trained my spare Rudy crew for  the T-34. My Kv-13 and T-34/85 crews are working on the 3rd skill.  My question is which crew should I use in my Russian premium mediums. Should I grind up my T-34 crew since it is the lowest skill crew or should I use my KV-13 crew to keep them progressing to finish their third skill?

 

My first suggestion is to get the T-34 crew up to a skill or two as soon as you can. Skills such as 6th sense make a big impact on your gameplay. Playing without a well trained crew is basically handicapping yourself. 

 

So:

 

-I'd train up the fresh T-34 crew at least to where they are working on their second skill

-Then turn your attention back to the KV-13 crew



GAJohnnie #13 Posted Jul 01 2016 - 13:47

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View Postmongoosejake, on Jun 30 2016 - 17:42, said:

 

My first suggestion is to get the T-34 crew up to a skill or two as soon as you can. Skills such as 6th sense make a big impact on your gameplay. Playing without a well trained crew is basically handicapping yourself. 

 

So:

 

-I'd train up the fresh T-34 crew at least to where they are working on their second skill

-Then turn your attention back to the KV-13 crew

 

Thank you

mongoosejake #14 Posted Jul 01 2016 - 21:38

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View PostGAJohnnie, on Jul 01 2016 - 07:47, said:

 

Thank you

 

No problem Johnnie, I had long played tanks without regard to proper crew training, and once I started to learn how much of a difference a good crew made, that's when I focused on training each of my favorite tank's crews at least to the 2nd skill set before moving on to train another crew. The first couple complete skills can make a big impact (such as BIA & 6th sense or camo), but after that the difference becomes more subtle in my opinion. 

GAJohnnie #15 Posted Jul 05 2016 - 16:22

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View Postmongoosejake, on Jul 01 2016 - 15:38, said:

 

No problem Johnnie, I had long played tanks without regard to proper crew training, and once I started to learn how much of a difference a good crew made, that's when I focused on training each of my favorite tank's crews at least to the 2nd skill set before moving on to train another crew. The first couple complete skills can make a big impact (such as BIA & 6th sense or camo), but after that the difference becomes more subtle in my opinion. 

 

Thanks Jake. Then there is the other side. Get use to playing a tank with a good crew, prompt that crew up to a higher tier and suddenly that "go to for sure win" tank is not so OP any more. Learned that the hard way with my T1 Heavy. Had a good crew in it, moved it up to my new T29 and suddenly my T1 is not nearly the monster it once was.

mongoosejake #16 Posted Jul 05 2016 - 22:57

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View PostGAJohnnie, on Jul 05 2016 - 10:22, said:

 

Thanks Jake. Then there is the other side. Get use to playing a tank with a good crew, prompt that crew up to a higher tier and suddenly that "go to for sure win" tank is not so OP any more. Learned that the hard way with my T1 Heavy. Had a good crew in it, moved it up to my new T29 and suddenly my T1 is not nearly the monster it once was.

 

Biggest reason the crew made such a big difference in your T1 Heavy is that without the highly trained crew you're seeing the soft stats get a touch out of hand.

 

-The 76mm gun is on the verge of having iffy accuracy along with high rate of fire. A good crew can keep the gun's bloom while the tank is moving and after firing under control while a fresh crew (particularly the gunner and driver, snap shot and smooth ride help quite a bit) can see the bloom catch up to the rate of fire and you'll see some wild shots.

 

-The mobility is part of the benefit of the T1 Heavy over the Kv-1, and the great driver you moved up was accentuating this well. A fresh driver without clutch braking or off road driving (along with the fact that a 50% or 75% driver does not make full use of the engine's power effectively like a 100% or better one will) can make a difference you'll feel.

 

That's a big reason why my favorite tanks will never have their crew moved away from them. I'll train a crew in my premiums until they have skills and then they can take over a fresh tank and make it perform above average.



GAJohnnie #17 Posted Jul 06 2016 - 17:27

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View Postmongoosejake, on Jul 05 2016 - 16:57, said:

 

 

 

That's a big reason why my favorite tanks will never have their crew moved away from them. I'll train a crew in my premiums until they have skills and then they can take over a fresh tank and make it perform above average.

Ok, that is a good trick. Thanks



mongoosejake #18 Posted Jul 06 2016 - 22:47

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View PostGAJohnnie, on Jul 06 2016 - 11:27, said:

Ok, that is a good trick. Thanks

 

I didn't start doing that for the longest time, but it works well. I've got a crew in my Dicker Max that is nearly complete on two full skills that will go into my Grille 15 whenever I get it. 

GAJohnnie #19 Posted Jul 08 2016 - 16:50

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So Jake any thoughts on the M22 Locust that is the reward tank for the current "On Tracks" mission?

mongoosejake #20 Posted Jul 08 2016 - 20:37

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View PostGAJohnnie, on Jul 08 2016 - 10:50, said:

So Jake any thoughts on the M22 Locust that is the reward tank for the current "On Tracks" mission?

 

It's one of the better tier 3 tanks, in that it is still able to contribute while bottom tier (it will see a fair amount of tier 5 games). The gun is fair, the mobility is good, and it is very capable in a passive spotting role even against tier 4's and 5's (the tiny size and decent viewrange make it great for hiding in tons of bushes that larger light tanks can't make use of).

 

I'd look at it as one of the few tier 3's that are truly worth playing. Fine for tossing a crew in for a extra daily bonus here and there, and it can be an absolute terror in good hands if it manages to get into a tier 3 game. If you do manage to be dropped into a tier 3 game, you can bounce Pz1c's routinely (your armor isn't super thick, but extremely angled on the front), and have the mobility to buzz all around and clean up.

 

Now I'm thinking I need to dust mine off and play it a bit, lol.






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