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NL_Celt #21 Posted Jul 08 2016 - 20:42

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Very useful style of thread for newcomers. Well done!

GAJohnnie #22 Posted Jul 12 2016 - 12:29

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View PostNL_Celt, on Jul 08 2016 - 14:42, said:

Very useful style of thread for newcomers. Well done!

 

I agree

mongoosejake #23 Posted Jul 17 2016 - 07:04

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Quick tip of the day:

 

Don't attempt to hold a non-essential position when...

-Out numbered

-Facing higher tier enemies

-Don't have teammates in position to support you

 -And you have the opportunity to fall back and re-position to a more defend-able/more important area with relative safety

 

Lately, including my short session tonight (played a few games while platooned with my wife, only about 7 or 8) I've noticed far too many instances of teammates who do not fall back but rather attempt to hold their ground in positions that are relatively worthless and normally hard to defend from (say open ground with no hard cover and limited concealment).

 

During my last battle of the night, we had exactly that situation happen. Replay: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2818793#murovanka-mongoosejake-panther_mit_8_8_cm_l_71

 

The east is where my wife (in her Kanonenjagpanzer) and I initially decide to support, but the situation quickly turns bad for our team (we are out gunned & out numbered by tougher and higher tier enemies compared to our lightly armored group of a Lorraine, my Panther 88, a WZ, and a JagPanther II). After my wife goes down, I see the Lorr and WZ making a retreat and start working my way back, using the terrain as much as possible.

 

At this point, attempting to hold would just have resulted in a quick death with next to nothing accomplished. Our team's best tactical choice would be to fall back and allow the enemy to push out of the forest and into the open ground a bit so we could catch them where they have little cover. A number of our team seem to already have this idea and are even ahead of my own movements. 

 

I pause behind some bushes to put a few shots of opportunity into a spotted T28 tank destroyer, and land a damaging hit before he turns. His side armor is terrible, so I attempt a couple of AP shots, but the angle is too steep. I load my HE in and fire at his position hoping to at least keep him tracked a bit longer. I make the mistake of hanging around a bit too much and take a hit from the Jagtiger, which spots me due to him being closer and having a line of sight. 

 

I work back to the ridge in anticipation of an enemy push towards our cap, which comes in the form of a M103 and Bulldog. A few bad shots by me allows the M103 to live a bit too long, but I get a bit of damage in and both tanks fail to gain any ground. By this point, the Wt Pz IV on our team has already complained about the "Panter" on our team being a stat queen and whines about how I "ran away". 

 

Our team basically begins mop up at this point, with the enemy's attempted push stopped and the other flank cleared. 

 

The main thing to take away from my rambling about a mediocre game is that while I may have only had a 3rd class game with a only okay performance, I stayed alive and kept assisting the team towards a win in what could have easily been a quick and painful loss (if the enemy had really pressed their advantage in the east quickly and pushed into our cap and beyond I believe we would have lost this game). Bigger point to take from the replay isn't just to focus on me and what I did, but also note that other players on my team did one of two things... They either re-positioned to stay alive and continue dealing damage and in turn changed the balance of the game, or died holding ground that wasn't key regardless.

 

-The quick summary is this: If you are in a position that looks like it is going to be overrun and you have the option of tactically retreating to a better position... Do it. A dead tank cannot fire it's gun, or spot enemies, or even cap. A tank with even a sliver of health left can do all of those. Keep your eye on the minimap and try to notice failing flanks or positions early enough to get out and keep your gun in the game. That game could have been a even easier win had more of our eastern group stayed alive longer.

 

 



GAJohnnie #24 Posted Jul 22 2016 - 20:30

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-The quick summary is this: If you are in a position that looks like it is going to be overrun and you have the option of tactically retreating to a better position... Do it. A dead tank cannot fire it's gun, or spot enemies, or even cap. A tank with even a sliver of health left can do all of those. Keep your eye on the minimap and try to notice failing flanks or positions early enough to get out and keep your gun in the game. That game could have been a even easier win had more of our eastern group stayed alive longer.

 

 

This seems like such a obvious thing but so many players, myself included, find this difficult to master. Any thoughts on how to make a successful tactical retreat?



GAJohnnie #25 Posted Jul 23 2016 - 16:01

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So MJ

 

What are your thoughts on the Churchill 1?



mongoosejake #26 Posted Jul 23 2016 - 20:18

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View PostGAJohnnie, on Jul 23 2016 - 10:01, said:

So MJ

 

What are your thoughts on the Churchill 1?

 

 I didn't keep the Churchill 1. Considering I keep any tank that I see benefits in, that says a lot.

The Churchill has a good gun and plenty of hitpoints, but that's really all it has. The turret is terrible (very easy to pen the turret face as it's flat and not thick), the hull has poor side armor (and those sides are big and long), and the mobility is among the worst of the tier.

Basically, the gun is a nice one for the tier, but the tank is very mediocre. I'd take the T1 Heavy or Vk30.01H over the Churchill for a tier 5 heavy that is DPM based rather than high alpha. If you like the support tank role, the Churchill is slower but somewhat tougher than the Vk, but in my opinion cannot match that fantastic Waffe gun.

Now, is it worth playing through? Sure. I did play through it not long after I created S-F, and did ok with it. The next tank is a true test though, as the Churchill VII does not have a bunch in its favor (same gun basically, bad mobility, and only gains some armor over the Churchill 1, and that armor is only good while top tier and people don't know where to shoot it). The later heavies down the line (tier 8, 9, 10) are all fine to great though.

 

If you're going through the Churchill 1, it's a fair enough tank that you won't mind the grind through it. The next tank, the Churchill VII made me pause and I haven't went back yet. The thing is just so slow and the only time it feels like it has a strength is when top tiered and not having to fight many other heavies (it's actually bad at fighting other heavies unless they are distracted due to low mobility, low pen, and low alpha for the tier as far as heavies go). 



mongoosejake #27 Posted Aug 01 2016 - 04:40

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Another thing I'll do from time to time with my thread here will be to showcase Ace Tanker or other highly entertaining/ useful games I've played recently. 

 

The first of these will be a little game in the tier 4 German medium, the Pz III: http://wotreplays.eu/site/2845927#windstorm-mongoosejake-pz_kpfw_iii

 

Just a nice battle that showcases how effective a mobile medium tank can be. This isn't some groundbreaking battle, but it shows how:

 

-To fall back when in a bad position: Once both Covenantors pushed up I knew they were dead, going against multiple tier 5's that had support from behind them and I chose to not throw my tank away with them and keep your tank in the game by avoiding over-extending and suffering an early and meaningless death (I would have certainly died just like the Stug B and 2 Cov's had I attempted to hold against multiple tier 5's with support).

 

-To not simply run away and leave the flank exposed: When I fell back, I did so that I could get to a new position that still covered the open flank. I went high to a position where I could spot and use my gun depression to still get shots at the targets (I ended up working the T-34 over quite well before needing to move to avoid the T1 Heavy that pushed up).

 

-To pick the fights you can easily win: I bailed when the T1 Heavy pushed up because that was not a fight I could easily win. The T1 is the tier 5 heavy I most respect, as it's mobile, has a tough front, and a quick firing 76mm gun. That combo makes it quite good at taking down mobile mediums like my Pz III. I bailed and went after the nearly dead T-34 because I knew I could easily kill him with little threat to my own tank. I then figured I could kill the T1's support (like that SU-85B), and then have him isolated. That is exactly how it turned out. If I had went for the T1 first, he alone could kill me, and he had the SU-85b backing him up, so I would have been dead right there and all three enemies might have all lived. That game could have turned right there, and indeed that was the turning point in our favor.

 

-To assist teammates so you keep more guns in the game: I then moved to the city to help clear it out as quick as possible so that we had more guns left for the mop up. Too many times, players all see their team having an advantage and start getting reckless or splitting up. Isolated tanks are easy kills, so stick together! 



mongoosejake #28 Posted Aug 01 2016 - 22:57

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This specific topic has popped up in a couple of spots, so I'll put my comments from other discussions here as well for anyone interested. The topic at hand is in regards to deciding on picking either the M4 Sherman, or Pz IV H for a fun howitzer toting tier 5 medium, specifically on which one does the job better with a 105 howitzer? 

 

Here are my thoughts, and this is coming from someone who has 2 Marked the Sherman so far, and 3 Marked the Pz IV H...

 

Short answer: The Pz IV H is better at howitzer style gameplay. The Sherman is better at regular medium gameplay.

 

So, why in my opinion is the Pz IV H better at howitzer gameplay when compared to the Sherman?

 

-The Pz IV H's armor is better in relation to the tier and typical player that you'll encounter. The Sherman is more able to accentuate it's armor by using terrain via its gun depression, but the Pz IV H's skirts and thicker (but flatter) frontal armor tends to counter HE shells better in my experience. The skirts are 5mm of spaced armor that will cause HE to detonate away from the tank's hull, while the Sherman's 38mm sides will take direct hits (and 105 HE will fully pen the Sherman's sides).

-

The Pz IV H has better power-to-weight ratio, better turret traverse (by a big amount), more hitpoints, and a big and very important item is the better aim time.

 

-So, the Pz IV H will most likely be able to get into position and put a shot on target quicker than the Sherman (quicker turret traverse, power-to-weight ratio, and aim time)

 

-The Pz IV H can also counter HE that will most likely not be well aimed (the enemy if it survives the hit will be most certainly panicked a bit, and the Pz will already be moving to cover) with it's extra hitpoints, HE suppressing skirts on both hull and turret, and thicker frontal armor (most likely place to get hit in a quick brawling situation).

 

Now, does this make the Pz IV H the better tank??? No.

 

I love my Pz IV H as a simply fun HE firing fun-mobile, but overall the Sherman is the better non-howitzer medium with the better pen on it's 76mm M1A1 and the very usable gun depression on top of better viewrange. When bottom tiered, the Sherman has a better APCR shell, and can even passively spot from bushes if you choose to use binoculars (I do this on mine for that very reason). The Sherman is the more versatile tier 5 medium, but for pure HE howitzer gameplay, the Pz IV H is the better choice in my experience with both tanks.



GAJohnnie #29 Posted Aug 02 2016 - 11:52

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View Postmongoosejake, on Aug 01 2016 - 16:57, said:

I love my Pz IV H as a simply fun HE firing fun-mobile, but overall the Sherman is the better non-howitzer medium with the better pen on it's 76mm M1A1 and the very usable gun depression on top of better viewrange.

 

Thank you. This was my impression too. I only play the Derp on the PZ. Nice to have confirmation that my impressions are not way off base.



mongoosejake #30 Posted Aug 04 2016 - 00:22

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So, with the upcoming 1 on 1 tournament this Saturday that takes place on Mittengard and features only tier 3 light tanks, I thought that I'd share some tips and my personal views on the possible choices of tanks and why or why not someone might want to use them in a competitive arena. The following statements may not apply to what I think of the same tanks in random battles due to the nature of tournament play vs regular play.

 

-First tier light that everyone almost unanimously thinks of is the highly popular Pz1c.

Now, the Pz1c has a lot going for it, including great mobility, very good camo value, and fantastic burst damage which all combine for a amazingly good active scout and run-and-gun attacker. 

 

The problem with that is the fact that the tier 3 light 1v1 takes place on the toilet bowl known as Mittengard. While there are opportunies to make some use of mobility, the fact is that map is designed to force close range engagements and provides lots of cover for slower and tougher tanks to make use of. Add the limited pen of the Pz1c's gun to this, and it may not be the best choice. 

 

To make matters worse, owners of the infamous Pz II J will likely bring it out if they're participating in this event, and it is Pz1c proof. The only option for a Pz1c driver is to be running the top 2cm autocannon with APCR and close to point-blank range where your average pen is 51mm compared to the side or rear armor of the Pz II J being a flat 50mm. 

 

Also, the AMX 38 will present the same issues...

 

That brings me to the little but very tough French AMX 38
Now, not many people are going to think of the AMX 38 when asked about good tier 3 light tanks due to it's near inability to successfully fight when bottom tiered and seeing lots of tier 4's and 5's. That all changes when facing it's own tier, where it becomes a mobile bunker that can successfully lead a direct push into the enemy while bouncing shots and dealing a bit of damage itself.

 

The armor of the AMX 38 is its strength. It's angled and thick, leading to it being almost auto-cannon immune in regular battles, and very capable of bouncing even APCR when sidescraping, wiggling, and even just angling in the open. 

 

However, it's quite slow and the gun leaves much to be desired. If you find that others are using the Pz1c mostly, the AMX 38 is the ideal counter to that tank. The AMX 38 could literally stroll to the opponents cap and force a head-on fight which plays right into it's hand. 

The AMX 38 will be one tank I have at the ready myself.

 

A staple of past tier 3 tournaments has been the Cruiser IV

 

Highly mobile, with a 4 shot auto-loading Bofors weapon that has great APCR pen of 101mm and fantastic burst damage, the Cruiser IV can really work terrain well with its gun depression, and can also out-spot a number of other tier 3's. 

 

However, it is a large target with next to no armor and the gun has a tendency to be bad at firing on the move, and will also miss nearly half of its shots unless at close range (the weapon fires 4 shots in 2 double bursts, and the bloom from the first shot in each pair tends to throw the second off of the target by a fair amount).

 

The Cruiser IV packing the Bofors loaded with APCR will be a deadly force that can easily take down the toughest tier 3's, including the AMX 38 and Pz II J, but will be taken out just as easily by anything and is especially vulnerable to a Pz1c which can just auto-aim and spray bullets without slowing down. The tiny Pz1c will be hard for the Cruiser IV's Bofors to hit on the move, yet the larger Cruiser will take damage in return due to its size and complete lack of armor.

 

A hidden gem of tier 3 lights is the T-70

 

The T-70 features decently thick and very well angled armor, a great top 45mm gun with good pen, accuracy, and rate of fire, and is a tiny target to hit. It's not fast, nor does it have massive potential burst damage, but rather it's a great all around tank that has no glaring weaknesses but does have a number of strengths. 

 

Its top gun has 75mm of AP pen, and 110mm of APCR pen, both of which can kill any tier 3. If you see a enemy using a Pz II J, load the APCR and make them regret buying that thing in the first place as your armor can bounce half or more of his shots while that 110mm APCR just tears him apart in return.

 

The Pz1c isn't a threat unless you let one get to your side or rear where you do not have much armor to count on. Keep the front to the enemy and blaze away with your sustained firepower of the 45mm.

 

The M3 Stuart

 

The M3 Stuart is highly mobile, has fair armor, and a nice performing 37mm gun and could certainly be a capable option. The armor is good enough to cause a fair amount of bounces if you duel with a Pz1c, and no tank will put you at a mobility disadvantage. 

 

However, the 37mm gun will require APCR to ensure penetrations against the AMX 38 and Pz II J, and even then you should focus on getting to their sides and rear, and must do so with the Pz II J, which has more frontal armor than even your APCR shell can muster in pen to counter.

 

-Bonus- If you don't already have a M3 Stuart but do have the Locust, you can interchange the comments on each. They play mostly alike, with the M3 having a agility edge but the Locust being smaller and stealthier. The German T 15 also plays much like this.

 

The British Cruiser II is the KV-2 of tier 3, and should be considered as an option

 

Lets just get the bad out of the way... The Cruiser II is slow, doesn't have a ton of armor, has a long reload, and terrible accuracy on the top weapon, but... 

 

None of that matters the moment your shell connects on target and they evaporate instantly.

 

The fact is that the only reason to consider this tank is very simple and quite blunt: It deals an average of 370 hitpoints of damage on a HE shell penetration, and speaking of HE penetration the Cruiser II's howitzer has a very nice 47mm of pen (how many tier 3 light tanks have anywhere near 47mm of armor??? Answer: Two, the Pz II J and the AMX 38). To top that off, the Cruiser II also has an optional HEAT shell that deals 280 damage with a incredible 110mm of pen (that's better than the HEAT pen on the M4 Sherman and Pz IV H two tiers higher). 

 

That weapon is the reason you may see the Cruiser II being used, and that's reason enough.

 

There are a few lights that aren't as likely to be thought of, but each have their own traits you could put to use

 

Pz III E: Fast, agile, and packing a potent 5cm gun with high damage for the tier, the Pz III E is basically vulnerable to spit wads with it's non-existent armor. Could be played successfully, but would require a high degree of skill to do well on Mittengard.

 

Pz 38T: Decently durable, a smaller target, and packing a good weapon, the 38t could be a nice all-around tank much like the T-70 I've mentioned above. Doesn't excel in a specific area, but has no glaring weaknesses. For someone unsure of how they want to play the map, this tank can fill many roles without you being handicapped.

 

Lt vz 38: The Czech version of the Pz 38t, this variant has an Ace up it's sleeve: It packs a astoundingly good auto-loading weapon. With 3 shots coming out in 2 seconds, the Lt vz 38 could quickly put some hurt on an enemy, and has the pen to do so to anyone, with 82mm of AP pen, and 115mm of APCR pen. The damage per shot of 40 hp is low, but 3 hits in 2 seconds adds up fast, and the clip reload is low. A tank to consider.

 

Chinese Chi-Ha: Unlike the original Japanese Chi-Ha that is rightfully a medium, the "borrowed" Chinese version got shoved into the light branch. What that means is that while on the slow side, the Chi-Ha carries a very very good 47mm gun that deals 70 hp per shot, backed up by high pen of 81mm with AP and a whopping 130mm with APCR, which would pen the infamous Pz II J with ease. The armor is angled enough to bounce some auto-cannons, but not much else. If you want pen and damage, this could work.

 

Pz II G: The main reason to possibly bring this tank is the 3cm auto-cannon. As much as I enjoy this little tank (which is a terror to tier 5 heavies that don't give it respect), I'm not sure that the low DPM but very high pen 3cm would be a benefit as much as it would likely be a liability. Still, this thing slaughters Pz II J's...

 

T-46: This tank is fast, agile, and offers a choice of running the same 45mm gun as the T-70, or a short 76mm weapon that packs a 110 hp punch. No armor, but it does have mobility and firepower. Should be given a look for you to decide on your own.

 

Toldi: Fair armor and good pen could be nice benefits, but the biggest help is the fact that you can toss a highly skilled crew in this premium tank and gain all of those benefits while still having a fair performing tank that is competitive.

 

LTP/ T-127: Both of these Russian premium lights are competitive in tier 3, with fairly good armor and quick firing guns. Here, the main benefit would again be the ability to toss a highly trained crew into them for a possible competitive edge. The good armor you're used to in your T-127 or LTP will vanish the moment APCR starts flying, so don't count on it like you can in random battles.

 

Hope all of this helps in deciding on what could be a possible choice for anyone that is considering the tier 3 1v1 on Saturday! Some of this carries over to random battles, but a lot changes with the variation that +1/-2 MM provides, where your tier 3 tank fights everything from tier 2's to tier 5's.



mongoosejake #31 Posted Aug 19 2016 - 22:47

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Next Thursday sees World of Tanks hosting a tier one 1 vs 1 tourney, which would really cater to newer players quite well, seeing as they see Mittengard every third battle as is, lol. 

 

Link to tourney page: http://worldoftanks.com/en/tournaments/1000000298/

 

Now, here are some of my quick observations about the variety of tier one tanks:

 

For the tier 1 tourney, you have a few workable options:

 

-The Vickers Medium 1 mounting the 6 pdr and firing HE can at times one shot the other tier 1's. Guaranteed two shot kills on all tier 1's. Zero armor, and massive profile for a tier 1 make it unable to avoid return fire in many cases.

 

-T1 Cunningham. This has been a staple of tourneys for years, and should still be even after losing the 20mm auto-cannon. The 37mm auto-loading gun can still clip out a number of tier 1's with even a miss, and can clip out all of them if you land every shot (5 shot clip with 30 damage per shot= 150 damage per clip on average). Highly mobile and tiny, it can outmaneuver the other tier 1's and can play like a medium or light should. 

 

-K-House: The little Czech tank has good alpha and fair accuracy and is even mobile enough. The drawback would be literally zero armor, but the tank could be successful regardless.

 

-The L. Traktor has always been one of the best tier 1's and while it favors ranged engagements, it has the best viewrange and in the toilet bowl known as Mittengard could very well get the first shot off every time due to good camo combined with the nice viewrange. 

 

-The R. Otsu has good armor and great gun depression. Those two attributes could be used to good effect on the rubble piles and debris scattered around the map. The gun selection is far as well.

 

-The MS-1 is popular and while it has a fair gun, the lack of hitpoints and lackluster mobility could hinder it greatly. It is tiny and hard to hit, but once spotted you are at a disadvantage because something like the Medium 1's 6 pdr can one-shot you with HE fairly often, and the T1 Cunningham's auto-loading 37mm doesn't even need all 5 shots to kill you, so keep that in mind.

 

-Both the Renault FT and the Chinese variant called the Renault NC-31 are decent little tanks with a bit of armor, but fairly average in most areas. Both are slow enough you're not going to be flanking or repositioning to counter the enemy, so you basically will have to just roll towards them. The Japanese Otsu variant gets nearly double the armor to make up for the slower speed, but the FT and NC-31 don't. If you like the original French tank, I'd suggest the Otsu over the other two versions.

 

 

Hope this helps anyone interested in earning a bit of free gold!



mongoosejake #32 Posted Aug 21 2016 - 22:33

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Someone recently asked in another topic what would be a decent premium for a newer player (this player has less than 1500 battles played at the point of the question being asked) that did not want heavies.

 

Here's my thoughts on that subject: 

 

Here's what I'd take a look at for someone truly knew to the game but looking for a decent premium tank.

 

-First, do not grab a tier 8 premium, it'll just frustrate you as the game requires a fair learning curve. 

 

-Look for a premium that has a decent gun, something that will not hold you back. Something like the Excelsior is a very nice mid-tier heavy that is quick and fairly agile, but requires you to know weakspots (or carry a decent load of APCR, and still aim well).

 

-Look for something that will also double as a current or future crew trainer. Consider the tank lines you are already going down, or will go down and take that into consideration.

 

With those things mentioned...

 

-The Pz T 25 is a nice tier 5 German medium. Very quick in a straight line, and with a gun that is more than good enough for a tier 5 medium, it has a ton of hitpoints that will allow you to make a mistake or two and still survive to keep fighting.

 

-The Chi-Nu Kai is a nice tier 5 medium more for the gun than anything else. It has good pen and damage for the tier, and can be used to support and cover your allies while racking up some damage. Slower speed holds it back a bit, but also keeps you from over-extending too often.

 

-The SU-100Y packs the best gun for damage of tier 6 that is not a HE based howitzer. Only the mighty howitzers of the O-I and KV-2 boast more damage per shot, but the 130mm naval gun of the SU-100Y is a bit more consistent, and the TD is still pretty mobile. Good for credits due to not needing premium shells ever (the premium AP actually loses penetration in exchange for more damage, so the regular AP tends to be the best choice regardless), and massive crew allows plenty of training potential.

 

-The tier 6 Skoda T40 is a fun tank for me, and feels like a fully upgraded tier 6 medium, not a gimped premium that has a major handicap to work around. Fairly mobile and carrying an 88mm gun with high damage per shot for the tier, it makes good credits and could be a great choice if you decided to go down the Czech medium line.

 

So, my top picks would be either the Pz T25 or Skoda T40, as they are good all around mediums that won't require you to be an amazing player to at least get good performance out of them.



mongoosejake #33 Posted Sep 09 2016 - 22:33

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*Posted this elsewhere, but since I made this topic to basically try and help anyone that wished to listen I'll re-post my thoughts on weather or not you should consider the M4 Improved here:

 

First off, the M4 Improved is nowhere near as bad as some may make it out to be. It certainly is not as some say "take a M4 and make it stock and you have the M4 Improved". That applies to the gun that it carries, but to nothing else about the tank.

 

So, why would you even bother considering the M4 Improved???

 

-It's more mobile than the regular M4, and by a fairly noticeable amount. You will be able to make the hill on Mines with it, where that is a pretty risky move in the more sluggish M4. You can circle heavies better in the Improved rather than the standard M4.  You can chase lights that break throw your team's lines better.

 

-It has more DPM than the 76mm armed M4. You're looking at a difference of more than 200 DPM (1437 for the M4 vs 1650 for the Improved), which makes a difference when dog fighting other mediums.

 

-It has a touch quicker aim time, which helps both in limiting exposure and also in quickly targeting weakspots (which it needs to do).

 

-It gets 20 more HP, which might save your backside once in awhile.

 

Now, why should you not get it?

 

-It has less pen and damage per shot than the regular M4's 76mm weapon. The gun on the M4 Improved has 92mm of AP pen, and 127mm of APCR pen. This does not work for long range sniping at all. You need to be the type of player who enjoys flanking and wolfpacking with other mediums. The  AP pen is enough for tier 5 heavies, and all lights and mediums you'll face but will struggle against some tier 6 heavies, and most all tier 7 heavies. Certain well armored TD's can be trouble (SU-122-44's are basically immune to you frontally, and the British AT series are tough even from the sides) and will require smart gameplay to overcome. 

 

That's it for drawbacks. It's faster, more agile, has overall better armor, more DPM, a better aim time, and a few extra hitpoints but simply gives up penetration for basically being better at nearly everything else. If you are fine with that trade, then buy it. I did when it first came out and have nothing to regret.



mongoosejake #34 Posted Oct 08 2016 - 19:29

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Here are my initial thoughts on the new Swedish tier 6 premium medium:

 

It's exactly what I imagined and expected it would be.

 

The new Swedish premium Strv m/42-57 Alt A.2 should be seen as a competitive tank for its tier 

 

What's good about it that makes me think it's competitive?

 

-It has fair mobility, not great nor bad but in gameplay feels much like the standard M4 Sherman does as it moves around the terrain. 

-The armor while not good can still produce a few lucky bounces due to the angle on the hull's upper slope.

-The gun's accuracy is good (mine is sitting at .33 dispersion)

-The damage per shot is nice, better than most tier 5/6 mediums and allows for decent trading

 

That's all fine and dandy for normal mediums, but the big thing is...

 

-That burst damage is fantastic!!! On multiple occassions, I was able to take down two damaged tanks in one clip and take next to no damage in return. I also had situations where I ran into a lone tier 5 medium and that's game over for them, as my clip burst damage is 600 and regular tech tree tier 5's top out at 480hp (Pz IV H). If you run into a 2 person platoon that's working together, but it's later in the game and they are both at 50%, you can take them both down and still be fighting. 

 

Now, what's bad? 

 

Not much. It's not the fastest or most agile medium, but still is good enough to get the job done in a typical medium role. The inter-clip reload is just right, at 2 seconds your next shot is nearly perfectly aimed, but you're not waiting on the loading either. The total clip reload of course depends on your crew's training, if you have vents or food or not, but it never gave me trouble as I was always reloaded whenever I needed to be. The clip reload is not long enough to give enemies a big window of opportunity to rush you like say a AMX 50 100's clip reload does. 

 

Now for anyone wondering: Does this tank remove the reason for the Skoda T 25's existence? That'd be a big no. The  Strv m/42-57 Alt A.2 is ok mobility wise, but cannot hope to match the excellent mobility the Skoda has. Both are tier 6 mediums with auto-loaders, but both excel in different ways. The Skoda can run with Cromwells, but the Strv has the burst damage advantage in a support role.

 

So is the thing worth $18.99? In my opinion yes it is. I've already bought two of them, one for myself and another for my wife. 

 

I ace'd the thing in my first evening of playing it with this nearly 3k damage game on Abbey (I do suggest you watch the replay before buying it, and go watch some others as well to see the playstyle people are doing well with in this tank): http://wotreplays.eu/site/3010832#abbey-mongoosejake-strv_m_42-57_alt_a_2

 

What would I recommend for crew skills? You can look at the Strv crew in two ways: full camo to reduce detection if you are a passive player, or combat/gun handling skills if you're a more combat oriented player. My crew sits with the:

 

-Commander (who is also the radio Op, and a loader) working on Recon (gotta have more viewrange)

-Gunner (also a loader) working on Snap Shot (gun handling while turret/hull is turning)

-Driver is working on Smooth Ride (gun handling while driving)

 

What would I recommen for equipment? 

 

-You must equip vents. This is an absolute requirement in order to get the reload down. Most auto-loaders cannot mount rammers, and the Strv is not one of the exceptions to that rule. Vents also boost the crew's other skills, making your viewrange higher, your aiming time better, your final accuracy better, the mobility slightly better, etc. 

-I mounted binoculars for stationary viewrange enhancement. While reloading, or especially when bottom tiered, a medium can become a fine passive scout. I expect to be filling that role somewhat often and so I sete my Strv up for pulling double duty of damage and spotting.

-I also tossed on a camo net to aid in the passive spotting role. You can mount other items, but for filling the passive spotting role, the binocs/net combo can be valuable when mid or bottom tiered and your light tanks have all been long blasted off of the map (happens often doesn't it?).

 

P.S. Don't buy the packages! I never ever buy the packages with the tank + stuff. You can easily grind out credits for equipment and other goodies, and in this case the ultimate package includes a medium caliber gun rammer which the Strv cannot even mount



mongoosejake #35 Posted Nov 23 2016 - 03:19

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As a small update, I've started to upload worthy games to YouTube for viewing. If seeing any of my games helps newer players, that's great. Feel free to comment here or on the channel, give critisism (helpful) and let me know what you think!

 

First video (more of a test, already made a few changes in the way I'm going to upload):

 

Second video (with results screens at end, I'll keep doing the videos in this manner from now on):

 

Hope the videos are worth the watch!



mongoosejake #36 Posted Nov 23 2016 - 23:16

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Another video added of a recent Ace Tanker game in my E8 Sherman with over 3,000 damage dealt that showcases my favorite spot to go in a medium from the southeast start on Swamp. This position allows you to sneak in early damage on enemies moving to the northeast corner (very typical medium/light area), as well as spot and fire into the mid section in case enemies try to make a push there. You can see all of that happen in this replay, and you'll see how great this position can be:

 



mongoosejake #37 Posted Nov 26 2016 - 01:42

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This entry is from another topic where a new player asked for a generalized overview of what to expect with the various lines of vehicles in the tech tree, as in what sort of characteristics each country may have in general. Thought I'd re-post my response here in case anyone might benefit from it that views my topic:

 

Light tanks:

-Overall, the US and Russian light tanks are the most versatile and are capable in combat and spotting combined across all tiers, with very few being poor choices tier for tier.

-The German line has some gems, and some that are "niche" tanks that either you will love, or not.

-The French line starts odd for lights, all being slow and well armored, and at tier 5 takes a odd turn with the TD infused with Red Bull known as the ELC. The line then turns into fairly mobile auto-loading lights that are great at passive spotting as well as pouncing on lone enemies and eliminating them in a clip.

-The Chinese lights are a mix of combat and spotting, and feel quite a bit like the Russian line in many cases. This is from my personal experience as I currently have and play every currently available light tank minus the AMX 13 90 and WZ 132.

 

Mediums: Overall, the most capable all around tanks in the game.

-US mediums prize gun depression and fair mobility along with bouncy-ish turrets. Not the fastest nor always the best armed mediums, but great all-around tanks at basically every tier other than the odd M3 Lee that still has very strong DPM in it's favor.

-German mediums aren't always the fastest, but generally have high amounts of hitpoints, very nice weapons with above average accuracy and pen, or good DPM while having fair armor (side from Leo and Leo PTA).

-Russian and Chinese mediums both have good mobility, strong turrets, decent hulls, and as you get higher in tiers become basically the standard. The Russians get favored compared to the Chinese due mainly to gun selection and a touch of extra gun depression whereas the Chinese favor poorer handling higher damage guns that can feel off in some cases where the Russians favor very high DPM and above average on the move accuracy.

-British mediums are much like US tanks in some ways, with a preference to gun depression, but with more accuracy and better pen in some cases as you move up to tier 8 or so.

-French mediums are a mix, with the G1R being a tougher howitzer toting tier 5, while the upper lines split into the fast but slightly fragile AMX 30's with single shot weapons or the near light-tank like Bat Chat series of auto-loaders.

-Czech mediums vary tier to tier, but the tier 6, 9, and 10 are all considered quite good and feature great mobility and very manageable auto-loading systems, while the tier 4,5,7 and 8 are more standard fair.

 

Heavies:

-To sum it up as easily as possible, the US heavies favor gun depression and tough turrets with punchy guns but weaker hulls until tier 9 and 10.

-Russians favor high damage guns, decent to good armor all around at all tiers but have poor accuracy and are blind

-British heavies favor DPM above all else

-Chinese heavies feel very Russian-ish with some differences that you will tell once you have thousands of battles but early on will seem like copies.

-German heavies favor very nice guns (Vk30.01h, Tiger, Tiger P, Tiger II, E75) or heavy slab-like armor at the expense of mobility (E100, Maus, Vk4502b).

-French heavies are very much a mixed bag, with slow and decently armored B1, BDR, and ARL 44 giving way to the AMX M4 45 that's basically a slightly inferior Tiger with worse DPM, to the lighter armored auto-loading AMX 50 series at tier 8/9/10. 

 

TD's:

-American TD's again feature pretty good weaponry but have a bias on usable gun depression, and many have turrets. The lines either are a bit more mobile turreted designs (T110E4 line), or a bit slower but more durable line that most do not have turrets (T110E3 line).

-The British have a similar setup now, with one line having turrets from tier 6 up (FV4005 line), to slower better armored assault style TD's on the FV215 183 line with both lines having what I'd call good to very good guns for their respective tiers along the way. 

-The French TD's have generally very high penetration guns with good damage that get held back by sub-par gun handling and/or bad DPM. Can be great with top notch crews, and the tier 5 S35 CA is a standout that gets over-looked often.

-Russian TD's are a mix of fairly mobile and stealthy TD's with accurate guns (263 line), or somewhat bulky vehicles packing massive damage guns (268 line). Many gems along the way on both lines, with nearly no bad vehicles anywhere. The 268 itself has lost some of its shine, but even it is still capable. 

-The German TD's generally have the best weapons for their tier in my opinion (yes, debatable in some tiers, that's personal preference), sometimes mounted on chassis that are lacking (St. Emil, looking at you). Starting at tier 2 all the way to tier 10, in all lines there are very few average or below TD's, and many that are quite good when played properly. 

 

Arty: Used to play it a ton when I first started (the little T57 and SU-26 still sit as two of my most played vehicles even though the T57 hasn't been in my garage for over 2 years, and the SU-26 I only use for training room antics aka arty vs arty), now rarely do and only when trying to complete missions. I'm not a great source of info on it anymore, but will mention that I do still have the Pz Sfl IVb, Grille, Hummel, and GW Panther along with the Bishop, FV304, and am grinding the French line at tier 7 for something a bit higher to help with the T-55A missions. I'm at the point where I dislike most arty both when it's shooting at me, as well as when I'm playing it (always feel like if I was in something else I could do more good). The Pz Sfl IVb, Bishop and FV304 are the most enjoyable to play as they are more DPM based and actually require you to move and think a bit.



mongoosejake #38 Posted Nov 26 2016 - 18:32

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Ace Tanker in the Ram II on Highway:

 

 

In this replay, you will see where I helped clear the north flank, saw that our base was threatened and went back to defend rather than pushing on forward (like most do, only to lose to a cap), and then cleaned up near the end.

 

You might notice that I use auto-aim while moving, trying to make myself a more difficult target while still returning fire. On a very fast firing gun like the Ram's 57mm/6 pdr you can simply just spam shells like crazy while running and gunning and you will increase your survival in many cases rather than just sitting still and aiming (which makes you become the proverbial sitting duck). Moving while dogfight (such as against the enemy Ram) also helps reduce the enemy's chances of getting to aim at weaker armor, and wiggling and zig zagging can produce bounces as the enemy shells hit odd angles (you see that in my fighting in the north as well). 

 

Also, good play by the TD on my team at the end, he didn't try to stop and shoot at the Bishop, but just distracted him enough for me to get in behind. Most people would have stopped in a TD and tried to fire in that situation, which would not have ended well most likely.



RF_Van #39 Posted Nov 26 2016 - 19:55

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Good thread Jake...you obviously know the game well and I appreciate your comments. Since you want the thread to be ongoing, the youtube usage is a good idea on selected game content, so that it will still be viewable after patches happen.

mongoosejake #40 Posted Nov 26 2016 - 20:50

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View PostRF_Van, on Nov 26 2016 - 13:55, said:

Good thread Jake...you obviously know the game well and I appreciate your comments. Since you want the thread to be ongoing, the youtube usage is a good idea on selected game content, so that it will still be viewable after patches happen.

 

Thanks for the compliments first off, and the YouTube idea is just for that reason you mentioned. Even after newer updates render replays unwatchable, a YouTube video will last as long as there is such a thing as YouTube.

 

I previously ran a mountain bike related channel and figured why not dedicate one to some worthy battle that might give away something for less experienced players. I'm not a amazing player, but just more have improved by trial and error enough times, and hope to maybe be able to reduce that process even in the slightest for anyone that bothers listening, lol.

 

Anyway, thanks again!






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