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Cazamal #21 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 00:24

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How do I stop hull lock from deactivating when I move?

Dhizi #22 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 00:41

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View PostTitaneus_, on Jan 23 2017 - 14:31, said:

I am having trouble when it comes to pushing forward. In some battles I overextend and get completely obliterated and in others I stay too far back. Or I just get destroyed by artillery. How can I stop this? I'm a heavy tank driver (T29).

Also, what is a good tank that I can use to make money? (Non premium)

 

It's pretty easy to gauge appropriate aggression time and when to stay in cover. But still, it requires some practice and time in the tank you choose before you find the perfect timing.

 

First things first -- It looks like you're rushing quickly through tank tiers from your statistics. I'd recommend using the T29 as a good stopping point until you feel you're comfortable with your performance, as it's a great tank and T7 is usually the tier where learning the finer mechanics of the game begin. You've only got near-800 battles played, so even at that point, you're doing reasonably well for a new tanker.

 

As far as pushing up in battle -- It's all map-dependent and team-dependent. You need to analyze the enemy teams composition of tanks and your own before pushing. For example:

 

  • Do you have scouts still alive, and actively scouting the map? If so, and they are not taking fire, that is probably a good time to move up -- within the areas they're scouting.
  • Is the enemy team mostly tank destroyers or slow, immobile tanks? If so, you CAN proceed -- but move carefully, and keep in cover after each movement for a few seconds. Always be moving your tank though -- wiggle the turret and the hull a tiny bit as to make it hard to hit weakpoints.
  • Do you have Sixth Sense (A commander skill)? This is often the best notifier on whether or not it is safe to push up. If you haven't yet gotten your commander the Sixth Sense perk, you should play more battles on the T29 until he has attained the skill.
  • Does my team have the numbers advantage on this flank? If yes, push up together with them -- but STILL remain close to cover because there can always be a TD waiting in the mist to fire on approaching tanks. If not, it may be best to either hold your position, or in worst-case scenario, retreat.
  • How healthy is my tank? If your tank is low on hitpoints and could die from one-more shot, it's most likely safer for you to allow one of your ally tanks to move up, scout, and then decide from there if you can move up safely. If you're full on hitpoints, you're most often safe to push up since you can take 3-4 hits.

 

This question though is a bit more varying as every-player is different. It's hard to effectively farm credits in a non-premium tank, but the most credit-efficient tier is T6 and T7 for non-premiums. So hang around at this tier for a bit, gather up some credits, experience and crew experience, and then move up when you see fit! The most credit-efficient tanks for T6-7 are often medium tanks, as they usually do more damage and have lower repair costs.



Dhizi #23 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 00:43

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View PostCazamal, on Jan 23 2017 - 18:24, said:

How do I stop hull lock from deactivating when I move?

 

Hull lock is SUPPOSED to deactivate when you move. If you can provide the specific tank you're in and what you're trying to do exactly, I could clear up things better for you!

 

For example -- You can lock your guns aiming position in place by holding right-mouse button. This will keep your turret/gun locked in place so it doesn't move around as you look around the battlefield. This works for artillery, tank destroyers without turrets, and turreted tanks -- Your reticle will remain on the location you right-clicked on, so long as you hold right-mouse down.

 

Hull Locks (The X key on your keyboard) intent is to keep artillery, or turretless TD's, from moving their hull if their guns happen to try to aim outside of their gun arc. This keeps the hull from moving so binoculars and camo nets do not disable by an accidental wiggling of your tank. It does NOT work for tanks with turrets that have full-360° turning capability!


Edited by Dhizi, Jan 24 2017 - 00:45.


Titaneus_ #24 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 02:36

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View PostDhizi, on Jan 24 2017 - 00:41, said:

 

It's pretty easy to gauge appropriate aggression time and when to stay in cover. But still, it requires some practice and time in the tank you choose before you find the perfect timing.

 

First things first -- It looks like you're rushing quickly through tank tiers from your statistics. I'd recommend using the T29 as a good stopping point until you feel you're comfortable with your performance, as it's a great tank and T7 is usually the tier where learning the finer mechanics of the game begin. You've only got near-800 battles played, so even at that point, you're doing reasonably well for a new tanker.

 

As far as pushing up in battle -- It's all map-dependent and team-dependent. You need to analyze the enemy teams composition of tanks and your own before pushing. For example:

 

  • Do you have scouts still alive, and actively scouting the map? If so, and they are not taking fire, that is probably a good time to move up -- within the areas they're scouting.
  • Is the enemy team mostly tank destroyers or slow, immobile tanks? If so, you CAN proceed -- but move carefully, and keep in cover after each movement for a few seconds. Always be moving your tank though -- wiggle the turret and the hull a tiny bit as to make it hard to hit weakpoints.
  • Do you have Sixth Sense (A commander skill)? This is often the best notifier on whether or not it is safe to push up. If you haven't yet gotten your commander the Sixth Sense perk, you should play more battles on the T29 until he has attained the skill.
  • Does my team have the numbers advantage on this flank? If yes, push up together with them -- but STILL remain close to cover because there can always be a TD waiting in the mist to fire on approaching tanks. If not, it may be best to either hold your position, or in worst-case scenario, retreat.
  • How healthy is my tank? If your tank is low on hitpoints and could die from one-more shot, it's most likely safer for you to allow one of your ally tanks to move up, scout, and then decide from there if you can move up safely. If you're full on hitpoints, you're most often safe to push up since you can take 3-4 hits.

 

This question though is a bit more varying as every-player is different. It's hard to effectively farm credits in a non-premium tank, but the most credit-efficient tier is T6 and T7 for non-premiums. So hang around at this tier for a bit, gather up some credits, experience and crew experience, and then move up when you see fit! The most credit-efficient tanks for T6-7 are often medium tanks, as they usually do more damage and have lower repair costs.

I just got the 6th sense for my commander, and after seeing these tips I should be good with pushing (combining the skill with what you had said)

 

Currently I don't have many credits to go around to get a tier 6 because I made the terrible decision of selling the KV-1 to try and go up the soviet medium line, but after some bad battles in the T29, losing around 40k, I bought it back again. If I had the credits to get a tier 6, continuing with the soviet heavy line, what tank should I get? I'm thinking of the KV-2 because of the howitzer on it and that it has the 107mm gun for the T-150.

 

Another problem I have with the T29 is that I can't really attack some of the Soviet and Chinese tanks (The IS-3 and the T 34 2 for example) from the front because of their bouncy armor. How can I combat this?

 

Thanks for the tips :)

 



Orion3 #25 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 03:49

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I've been playing off and on for a few years. Started a few lines then dumped them. Quit a few times and came back. But, when I came back, I just played what I had and never advanced. So, I have a few vehicles with a lot of games played in them. My question is, is there really any point anymore to go to tier ten? I don't feel like I'm missing anything by not being there other than not being top tier all of the time. Plus, it seems strongholds are the thing.

Dhizi #26 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 03:53

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View PostTitaneus_, on Jan 23 2017 - 20:36, said:

I just got the 6th sense for my commander, and after seeing these tips I should be good with pushing (combining the skill with what you had said)

 

Currently I don't have many credits to go around to get a tier 6 because I made the terrible decision of selling the KV-1 to try and go up the soviet medium line, but after some bad battles in the T29, losing around 40k, I bought it back again. If I had the credits to get a tier 6, continuing with the soviet heavy line, what tank should I get? I'm thinking of the KV-2 because of the howitzer on it and that it has the 107mm gun for the T-150.

 

Another problem I have with the T29 is that I can't really attack some of the Soviet and Chinese tanks (The IS-3 and the T 34 2 for example) from the front because of their bouncy armor. How can I combat this?

 

Thanks for the tips :)

 

 

I...Wouldn't recommend the KV-2 as it doesn't honestly lead to any tanks i'd assume you would want (unless you're wanting to go down artillery lines? It's more of a joke tank, it's not really good at making money).  If you wish to make money within any of the tanks from the Soviet line, the T-34-85 is a well-respected Soviet medium tank at T6, the KV-85 and the T-150 also make reasonable credits.


As far as the T29, it's actually competitive with tanks at its tier when fully upgraded. If your T29 is fully leveled up (which, I would think it is) you shouldn't actually be having any difficulties fighting the two mentioned tanks.

 

 

For the IS-3 -- Its weakpoints are shown in this image. If you, the T29, are facing the IS-3 frontally, and I mean LINEARLY facing each-other (literally both looking/facing the same direction, no angling), you shoot the Green section, the LFP (Lower Frontal Plate, or 'Lower Glacis;) of the tank that is highlighted in green. This is the softest point of armor frontally for the IS-3, and if he's climbing up an incline, the angle-of-impact if you fire from below will be flatter -- meaning the shot will have less armor to penetrate, and will go through easier.

 

The IS-3's lower plate is 110mm thick armor at a 64° slope -- So its effective armor value is roughly 251mm of armor if you are shooting at it from an angle from above. If an IS-3 is approaching you and you are LOWER than he is, shoot the green section at the bottom. This 'Pike nose' is a common armor design of the russian tanks, and it's a gimmicky design at that. Shoot the lower section if it's exposed and most often (with regular OR gold ammo) it will penetrate.

 

The Yellow section is situational. You can see that the highlighted areas in the picture. This part of the armor is technically the 'gimmick' design of the russian armor sloping. It's effectively 190-223mm of armor if he is directly facing you. IF HE IS ANGLED AT YOU -- Shoot the section that is facing you, not the one that is angled away -- you will never penetrate the cheek that is angled opposite to you. Shoot the flat section that he's showing you and it'll penetrate if you're from a higher-position.

 

Summed up -- If you're aiming from above, shoot the green viewports at the top of the tank, or the yellow-section that is facing you. If you are shooting from below, shoot the green section under the tank, known as the LFP or 'Lower Glacis plate'. This is a sure penetration for any gun running the T29's 198mm of average penetration if the angle is poor for the IS-3. For example -- if the IS-3 is cresting a hill and you are at the bottom of it, you will see THAT green portion peek over the hill. You shoot that portion, and he'll take damage.


 

The T-34-2 is much simpler. and I can actually sum it up without a picture!

 

Shoot the hull, or the sides of the turret if he isn't looking at you. That simple. The only 'armored' portion of the tank is the front of the turret at 170mm of armor. So, shoot the hull anywhere you like at a respectable angle and it's a sure penetration.

 

Just to make it clear, here is a picture.

All that in green? Free to shoot. Easy peasy.




Dhizi #27 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 04:07

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View PostOrion3, on Jan 23 2017 - 21:49, said:

I've been playing off and on for a few years. Started a few lines then dumped them. Quit a few times and came back. But, when I came back, I just played what I had and never advanced. So, I have a few vehicles with a lot of games played in them. My question is, is there really any point anymore to go to tier ten? I don't feel like I'm missing anything by not being there other than not being top tier all of the time. Plus, it seems strongholds are the thing.

 

Well, that's a question of semantic. Do you find any higher-tier tanks interesting, or do you only find interest in the tiers/tanks you're at? For example, my dream-tank when I started many-years back was the Leopard 1. So my drive when first joining the game was to head to that tank. Afterwards I found other tanks that suited my interests -- the T57 Heavy, Batchat, so-on. Along with that, I tend to ONLY enjoy gameplay at T6+ (That's a hard line though, I actually prefer T8+, but the lowest i'd ever go is T6, I don't play tanks under T5).

 

No, you're not 'missing' anything, unless there's something you want to get. Is there any 'dream' tank you're interested in? Any tier you prefer?

 

And yeah, Strongholds are a thing for any player within a Clan -- Like SEELS you are in, I'm not 100% on their details, but check around with players within the clan, see if they run strongholds! They bring many benefits to the players in them -- Credit, XP, crew XP, and other little benefits.



Orion3 #28 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 04:33

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No. No dream tanks I feel I need in tier ten. The lines closest to tier ten I'm at is the Grille 15 ( the tier 9 waffle was one of the lines I dropped 2 years ago...too much focus fire once spotted ), I have the IS-3 and got rid of the KV-4 a year ago. So, just need to buy the tier 9's on both of the Russian heavies. I'm still at the T-44...can sell anytime for the tier 9 T-54. Not really good in mediums though. Guess I need to run them to be more effective in them. That's what I mean, I could've done this a year or two ago but, I don't feel the need to. Like, I have to have them. Yeah, I've done strongholds. Clan wars isn't really a thing anymore. To me anyway. I guess that's why I don't feel the need to push for a tier ten. Like, what for? Am I missing something? Lol.

Dhizi #29 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 04:39

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View PostOrion3, on Jan 23 2017 - 22:33, said:

No. No dream tanks I feel I need in tier ten. The lines closest to tier ten I'm at is the Grille 15 ( the tier 9 waffle was one of the lines I dropped 2 years ago...too much focus fire once spotted ), I have the IS-3 and got rid of the KV-4 a year ago. So, just need to buy the tier 9's on both of the Russian heavies. I'm still at the T-44...can sell anytime for the tier 9 T-54. Not really good in mediums though. Guess I need to run them to be more effective in them. That's what I mean, I could've done this a year or two ago but, I don't feel the need to. Like, I have to have them. Yeah, I've done strongholds. Clan wars isn't really a thing anymore. To me anyway. I guess that's why I don't feel the need to push for a tier ten. Like, what for? Am I missing something? Lol.

 

don't particularly thinking you're missing anything really!  In the end the game caters to different player types, it sounds like you're more focused on the 'combat' aspect in comparison to the 'grind to become the epitome of this tank line' type of player like most folks are here. I'm the latter -- I strive to reach the T9-10 areas of tanks where they evolve and become a respectable and strong tank that can compete with all-other tiers. I don't play tiers 1-5 since they don't teach the finer aspects of the game you see at Tiers 6+ (in reality, you see most game mechanics understood and used at T8 and above, though). To each their own, honestly.

 

The Grille 15 is pretty much considered the best TD at the moment from what i've heard. I loved the KV-4, DESPISED the IS-3. IS-4 is a beautiful tank, more-so in my opinion than the IS-7 (though it has better mobility). I think you should just keep playing on at your own pace until you find a goal or motivation to reach those top tiers. Explore nations and different tanks, try new things out. See what you like!



Titaneus_ #30 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 04:40

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View PostDhizi, on Jan 24 2017 - 03:53, said:

 

I...Wouldn't recommend the KV-2 as it doesn't honestly lead to any tanks i'd assume you would want (unless you're wanting to go down artillery lines? It's more of a joke tank, it's not really good at making money).  If you wish to make money within any of the tanks from the Soviet line, the T-34-85 is a well-respected Soviet medium tank at T6, the KV-85 and the T-150 also make reasonable credits.


As far as the T29, it's actually competitive with tanks at its tier when fully upgraded. If your T29 is fully leveled up (which, I would think it is) you shouldn't actually be having any difficulties fighting the two mentioned tanks.

 

 

For the IS-3 -- Its weakpoints are shown in this image. If you, the T29, are facing the IS-3 frontally, and I mean LINEARLY facing each-other (literally both looking/facing the same direction, no angling), you shoot the Green section, the LFP (Lower Frontal Plate, or 'Lower Glacis;) of the tank that is highlighted in green. This is the softest point of armor frontally for the IS-3, and if he's climbing up an incline, the angle-of-impact if you fire from below will be flatter -- meaning the shot will have less armor to penetrate, and will go through easier.

 

The IS-3's lower plate is 110mm thick armor at a 64° slope -- So its effective armor value is roughly 251mm of armor if you are shooting at it from an angle from above. If an IS-3 is approaching you and you are LOWER than he is, shoot the green section at the bottom. This 'Pike nose' is a common armor design of the russian tanks, and it's a gimmicky design at that. Shoot the lower section if it's exposed and most often (with regular OR gold ammo) it will penetrate.

 

The Yellow section is situational. You can see that the highlighted areas in the picture. This part of the armor is technically the 'gimmick' design of the russian armor sloping. It's effectively 190-223mm of armor if he is directly facing you. IF HE IS ANGLED AT YOU -- Shoot the section that is facing you, not the one that is angled away -- you will never penetrate the cheek that is angled opposite to you. Shoot the flat section that he's showing you and it'll penetrate if you're from a higher-position.

 

Summed up -- If you're aiming from above, shoot the green viewports at the top of the tank, or the yellow-section that is facing you. If you are shooting from below, shoot the green section under the tank, known as the LFP or 'Lower Glacis plate'. This is a sure penetration for any gun running the T29's 198mm of average penetration if the angle is poor for the IS-3. For example -- if the IS-3 is cresting a hill and you are at the bottom of it, you will see THAT green portion peek over the hill. You shoot that portion, and he'll take damage.


 

The T-34-2 is much simpler. and I can actually sum it up without a picture!

 

Shoot the hull, or the sides of the turret if he isn't looking at you. That simple. The only 'armored' portion of the tank is the front of the turret at 170mm of armor. So, shoot the hull anywhere you like at a respectable angle and it's a sure penetration.

 

Just to make it clear, here is a picture.

All that in green? Free to shoot. Easy peasy.


I got the top engine, so my T29 is fully upgraded now.

 

And after seeing your answers, I'm feeling a bit stupid. Atleast my Win percentage went from 46% to nearly 49%, Thanks for the help! :D

Orion3 #31 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 04:47

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View PostDhizi, on Jan 23 2017 - 22:39, said:

 

don't particularly thinking you're missing anything really!  In the end the game caters to different player types, it sounds like you're more focused on the 'combat' aspect in comparison to the 'grind to become the epitome of this tank line' type of player like most folks are here. I'm the latter -- I strive to reach the T9-10 areas of tanks where they evolve and become a respectable and strong tank that can compete with all-other tiers. I don't play tiers 1-5 since they don't teach the finer aspects of the game you see at Tiers 6+ (in reality, you see most game mechanics understood and used at T8 and above, though). To each their own, honestly.

 

The Grille 15 is pretty much considered the best TD at the moment from what i've heard. I loved the KV-4, DESPISED the IS-3. IS-4 is a beautiful tank, more-so in my opinion than the IS-7 (though it has better mobility). I think you should just keep playing on at your own pace until you find a goal or motivation to reach those top tiers. Explore nations and different tanks, try new things out. See what you like!

 

​Hmm. Guess I never really thought of it that way. You may be on to something. For the record, I play tiers 6-8 mostly. Tier seven I find the most interesting. Go figure. Thanks man.

Edited by Orion3, Jan 24 2017 - 04:51.


Dhizi #32 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 05:08

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View PostTitaneus_, on Jan 23 2017 - 22:40, said:

I got the top engine, so my T29 is fully upgraded now.

 

And after seeing your answers, I'm feeling a bit stupid. Atleast my Win percentage went from 46% to nearly 49%, Thanks for the help! :D

 

Nonsense man, nothing stupid at all. Just lack of experience, you've only got less than 900 games..I didn't pick this junk up until 2500 in a long time ago when I didn't look for the answers. THATS whats stupid -- leaving yourself up to question everything you do and never looking for help.

 

Keep on playin' and learning, you'll do fine!


Edited by Dhizi, Jan 24 2017 - 05:08.


Dhizi #33 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 05:09

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View PostOrion3, on Jan 23 2017 - 22:47, said:

 

​Hmm. Guess I never really thought of it that way. You may be on to something. For the record, I play tiers 6-8 mostly. Tier seven I find the most interesting. Go figure. Thanks man.

 

No problem at all, really. Here to help. Ever need anything else answered i'm here!



muddybruin #34 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 05:19

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View PostTitaneus_, on Jan 24 2017 - 01:36, said:

I just got the 6th sense for my commander, and after seeing these tips I should be good with pushing (combining the skill with what you had said)

 

Currently I don't have many credits to go around to get a tier 6 because I made the terrible decision of selling the KV-1 to try and go up the soviet medium line, but after some bad battles in the T29, losing around 40k, I bought it back again. If I had the credits to get a tier 6, continuing with the soviet heavy line, what tank should I get? I'm thinking of the KV-2 because of the howitzer on it and that it has the 107mm gun for the T-150.

Thanks for the tips :)

 

 

The KV-2 is the best for not losing credits, because you can shoot HE with the howitzer all the time.  But it doesn't really lead to super useful things. Also, you spend a lot of credits buying it and if you are low on garage slots, it also eats up one of those so...

 

The KV-85 and T-150 are both pretty similar in terms of credit-making potential. Both average +3.7k credits apparently, which is perfectly fine, about average for a Tier 6 heavy.  I think I would suggest the T-150 because it has more idiot-proof armor than the KV-85. The KV-85 is also really good (albeit a bit harder to use with less armor and bad gun depression) and leads to the IS-3 at Tier 8.

 

I suppose you can ask yourself whether you like the KV-1 or the KV-1S better. If you liked the KV-1 better, I'd suggest the T-150.  If you like the KV-1S better, you'll like the KV-85 line.



Titaneus_ #35 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 08:17

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View Postmuddybruin, on Jan 24 2017 - 05:19, said:

 

The KV-2 is the best for not losing credits, because you can shoot HE with the howitzer all the time.  But it doesn't really lead to super useful things. Also, you spend a lot of credits buying it and if you are low on garage slots, it also eats up one of those so...

 

The KV-85 and T-150 are both pretty similar in terms of credit-making potential. Both average +3.7k credits apparently, which is perfectly fine, about average for a Tier 6 heavy.  I think I would suggest the T-150 because it has more idiot-proof armor than the KV-85. The KV-85 is also really good (albeit a bit harder to use with less armor and bad gun depression) and leads to the IS-3 at Tier 8.

 

I suppose you can ask yourself whether you like the KV-1 or the KV-1S better. If you liked the KV-1 better, I'd suggest the T-150.  If you like the KV-1S better, you'll like the KV-85 line.

 

I only have 3 tanks in the garage, so space is not a problem. I'll get the T-150 then, since I'm more used to the KV-1. Thank you!

 

Now I have another question... I'm getting up to a 49% win rate, using the tips I was given, then the game starts throwing arty at me and inaccurate shots. More of the first one but the second is annoying because of the cost per shell. Anyway, I can do the HT-11 easily right, and I can probably do the second requirement too! But then there's arty. What can I do to avoid it?

 

And there's also Prokhorovka. I'm in a T29 and the map is very flat, there's the hill but there's no cover on the flanks (North side), where do I go?

 



muddybruin #36 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 11:23

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View PostTitaneus_, on Jan 24 2017 - 07:17, said:

 

I only have 3 tanks in the garage, so space is not a problem. I'll get the T-150 then, since I'm more used to the KV-1. Thank you!

 

Now I have another question... I'm getting up to a 49% win rate, using the tips I was given, then the game starts throwing arty at me and inaccurate shots. More of the first one but the second is annoying because of the cost per shell. Anyway, I can do the HT-11 easily right, and I can probably do the second requirement too! But then there's arty. What can I do to avoid it?

 

And there's also Prokhorovka. I'm in a T29 and the map is very flat, there's the hill but there's no cover on the flanks (North side), where do I go?

 

 

HT-11 should definitely be doable if you just keep at it in a T-150 or T29.  If you want to complete it asap, just take a large repair kit in your T29.  Once you've dealt 1,000 damage in a battle and survive to the end, use the Large Repair Kit right as the battle ends. (Large first aid kit would make this even more reliable but a small first aid kit is probably sufficient).  But if you're no rush, you can just play normally.

 

For arty... uh...

Well, experience will help teach you positions that you can play that are reasonably effective while still being arty safe.  (Well, at least it'll teach you which positions aren't arty safe).  Sometimes you're ostensibly behind hard cover, but you'll find that the hard cover is not tall enough to protect you. You may also find that the hard cover is in the wrong position to protect you from the angle arty is firing at. Make a mental not to hide in the same place next time you're getting focused by arty.

When you get shot at by arty, you should take a quick mental note of the angle... also try to remember where your team's arty is, and at the end of games, where their team's arty is.  You'll eventually start to learn common arty positions and you can kinda estimate the angle that they would be shooting from. You'll want to go to positions that are more protected from those angles.  

So obviously tall hard cover is the best way to protect you. Cities are usually good because there is lots of hard cover and the hard cover is all pretty tall. A lot of arties will not even bother trying to look for shots there, even if there's certain angles they could squeeze shots through, and just try to focus on easier targets.

If you're fighting on a hill, it's safer to be on the reverse slope... as in, if you were facing the enemy, your front is higher than your back, i.e. your typical ridge-poking hull-down position. Your tank will be close to parallel with the shell's path so there is little margin for error for the arty.  If you're sloped down... this is the best angle for arty to hit at (greatest margin for error).

Idk, a lot of times you just watch and observe when arty fired, whether they're firing at/around you, etc. Now when you were the last person they targeted, I would make particular effort to find hard cover, or zig-zag, change speed (not quite so effective in heavy tanks because they are too slow to accelerate), etc.  When you see they're busy shelling a teammate who isn't too close to you, or you haven't seen them fire at your flank in a long time (presumably because they're shelling the other flank), you can take up the heavy tank positions which are not strictly arty safe.

When you are moving around on open ground for long distances, you should have your turret pointed in the most likely direction of enemy fire. (Because your turret has more armor in the front than on the side).  Sometimes you're sure that no regular tanks can shoot you, but arty could. In this case you should have your turret facing the most likely direction of arty.  The goal is to reduce the amount of damage taken because your front turret armor will absorb more of the damage than the side armor.

 

Ugh, Prok in slow heavy tanks.  I'm no expert on that, I hate that too.  From the north side hill... it may look wide open, but if you look carefully, there are a lot of subtle ridges on it.  If you position yourself in just the right places there, you can be reasonably/completely hull down depending on how tall your tank is against shots from the middle.

A lot of good players will suggest the middle (I'm very bad at playing that position).  There's hull-down opportunities and many firing lanes (unfortunately, also many lanes to get shot back from).  Yeah... you don't have the greatest arty protection, but the same with everywhere else on the map. Idk, there's a building the north side can hide behind and a rock the south side can behind... idk, generally I just get hit by arty from all directions :(

When you go to the middle... I don't think it's necessary to rush as far forward as possible right away. You can go 2/3 of the way up, stop behind a bush for a bit, and let the enemy scout make his first active scouting run. There are so many bushes on Prok that even heavy tanks can hide.  You can even try shooting at the scout if you think you have a good shot, although... the T-150 will not be able to pull this off effectively haha.  Once he passes and as your teammates are getting close to the hill, I like to move up into my final position and be ready to shoot at the hill or to spot/proxy-spot/possibly engage their tanks also in the middle so your teammates on the hill can shoot at them.

Idk, i'm the wrong person to ask for HT tips in the middle of Prok :)  A lot of times you just have to suck it up on some maps and take your licks.  Scouts get screwed on some maps, arty gets screwed on city maps, and slow heavies get screwed when they get Prok with 3 scouts and 3 arty on each team.


Edited by muddybruin, Jan 24 2017 - 11:30.


Dhizi #37 Posted Jan 24 2017 - 13:34

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View PostTitaneus_, on Jan 24 2017 - 02:17, said:

 

I only have 3 tanks in the garage, so space is not a problem. I'll get the T-150 then, since I'm more used to the KV-1. Thank you!

 

Now I have another question... I'm getting up to a 49% win rate, using the tips I was given, then the game starts throwing arty at me and inaccurate shots. More of the first one but the second is annoying because of the cost per shell. Anyway, I can do the HT-11 easily right, and I can probably do the second requirement too! But then there's arty. What can I do to avoid it?

 

And there's also Prokhorovka. I'm in a T29 and the map is very flat, there's the hill but there's no cover on the flanks (North side), where do I go?

 

 

Muddy pretty much summed up everything..Prok is a very good map for hull-down tanks such as the T29 if you hold the mid, on the side of the railroad that goes down. You can use the entire middle-slope of the map to engage and have relatively solid cover, except from artillery. Nothing is safe from it on that map.

Boghie #38 Posted Jan 25 2017 - 04:16

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Dhizi,

 

I might get this answered in another post, but your views would be appreciated.  I really don't want to make more expensive mistakes of either finances or sanity:)

 

Anyway, I have suffered both the DW2 and the M3 Lee full grind.  I have 'elited' both those pigs.  However, I have my first skills/perks at only about 70% completion in both.

 

  • Do I buy the M4, the T1, or both?
  • Do I use my M3 Lee crew in the T1 or the M4?
  • And, as a Tomato, should I even try the Tier 6 VK30.01H?

 

Prior to banging the wall with the DW2 and the M3 Lee I was actually improving - especially in the PzIVD which I learned to like.  It was that tank that taught me the value of skills and perks.  I am very concerned about playing Tier 5 with crews that don't even have their first skills/perks.  Should I just crash on and build them up as I grind the next tank(s)?  Or should I continue playing the DW2 and M3 Lee till I get a certain number of skills/perks (at least one level???)?



muddybruin #39 Posted Jan 25 2017 - 04:34

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View PostBoghie, on Jan 25 2017 - 03:16, said:

Dhizi,

 

I might get this answered in another post, but your views would be appreciated.  I really don't want to make more expensive mistakes of either finances or sanity:)

 

Anyway, I have suffered both the DW2 and the M3 Lee full grind.  I have 'elited' both those pigs.  However, I have my first skills/perks at only about 70% completion in both.

 

  • Do I buy the M4, the T1, or both?
  • Do I use my M3 Lee crew in the T1 or the M4?
  • And, as a Tomato, should I even try the Tier 6 VK30.01H?

 

Prior to banging the wall with the DW2 and the M3 Lee I was actually improving - especially in the PzIVD which I learned to like.  It was that tank that taught me the value of skills and perks.  I am very concerned about playing Tier 5 with crews that don't even have their first skills/perks.  Should I just crash on and build them up as I grind the next tank(s)?  Or should I continue playing the DW2 and M3 Lee till I get a certain number of skills/perks (at least one level???)?

 

Here's my opinion of the matter:  

1) Both, eventually. They're both good lines. The heavy line has great turret armor which is helpful when you get yourself into trouble. The medium line's turret armor is not as reliable but they have your typical American all-around comfort, jack of all trades. Good gun depression for both lines is a plus.  

2) Put the M3 Lee crew in your M4. Retraining it to another tank of the same class retains 90% of the primary qualification level training, but retraining to a different class only retains 80%. Just recruit a new crew for the T1 heavy. (Some people don't use the same first skill on their mediums and heavies anyway)

3) I haven't played the VK 30.01 H, so no opinion on that, but it's a Tier 5.  Alternatively, there is a tier 6 called the VK 36.01 H.

 

Is it ok to play Tier 5 crews which haven't completed the first skill?  

Yes. I don't think it's quite rare for people to complete their 1st skill at Tier 4. You certainly don't grind enough XP to do so before eliting the tank. And Tier 4 has bad MM, so I would just advance to Tier 5 as quickly as I could.  My take is that at Tier 4 everyone still has garbage crews, by the end of Tier 5 you should be working into your 1st skill, completion of the 1st skill wouldn't happen until Tier 6 or Tier 7.

 

Also, you're still a long way away from completing the 1st skill. The XP required is non-linear. Just like an RPG. (Imagine you are at Level 70 in Pokemon or whatever... it takes way more XP to go from Level 1 to Level 30 than from Level 70 to Level 100).  You're not even halfway to 100%, and... if you don't like the M3 Lee (many people don't), I don't think you should make yourself hate the game to grind out that skill.  You'll be getting greatly diminishing returns from here on it.  Sometimes I would recommend getting up to 50% on a skill, since you can get that pretty fast.... but from 70% to 100% on a tank you hate? No way. (Probably not even on a tank you like)


Edited by muddybruin, Jan 25 2017 - 04:34.


Dhizi #40 Posted Jan 25 2017 - 06:24

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View PostBoghie, on Jan 24 2017 - 22:16, said:

Dhizi,

 

I might get this answered in another post, but your views would be appreciated.  I really don't want to make more expensive mistakes of either finances or sanity:)

 

Anyway, I have suffered both the DW2 and the M3 Lee full grind.  I have 'elited' both those pigs.  However, I have my first skills/perks at only about 70% completion in both.

 

  • Do I buy the M4, the T1, or both?
  • Do I use my M3 Lee crew in the T1 or the M4?
  • And, as a Tomato, should I even try the Tier 6 VK30.01H?

 

Prior to banging the wall with the DW2 and the M3 Lee I was actually improving - especially in the PzIVD which I learned to like.  It was that tank that taught me the value of skills and perks.  I am very concerned about playing Tier 5 with crews that don't even have their first skills/perks.  Should I just crash on and build them up as I grind the next tank(s)?  Or should I continue playing the DW2 and M3 Lee till I get a certain number of skills/perks (at least one level???)?

 

I..Know the suffering of the DW2 (Also, known to me as the douchebagwagen because it's such a cruddy tank in my opinion). The M3 Lee wasn't nearly as bad as it was, though.

 

  • I can't tell you enough, but both of the tanks are actually both really great. My experience with them prior was amazing. They MAY not be the fastest, but they're respectable in every other statistic. I think you'd really enjoy them.
  • That'd be up to your preference honestly, but i'd probably suggest the M4 for the sake of not having to re-train your crew to a different tank type. I'd definitely pick up a new crew for the T1, and train your M3 lee to the M4.
  • VK30 is a pretty alright tank! I could care less about your statistics, this game is about enjoyment first. If it looks like a tank you'd like, go for it!

 

For most parts, you don't have to often concern yourself with crew-skills being available up until T6-7 (They just aren't as needed as they are in the later tiers).

The only thing you should make SURE of at all times possible, is that your crew is 100% leveled up. This is a big important factor in general performance. They may not have any SKILLS, but they do have 100% performance rating everywhere else. Make sure they're as high as possible before proceeding up.






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