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What is your Destination Tank?

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pwnagemaster #201 Posted Apr 17 2017 - 01:03


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Destination Tank: IS


The IS at tier 7 has to be a destination tank. Probably the best non-premium tank at its tier, tied with the Chinese IS-2.



Why is the IS the best? I can give you 390 reasons why it's the best. That's 390 damage with a single shot at tier 7. That is huge. That's between 1/4 and 1/3 of the hitpoints of the other tier 7 heavies. It's enough to consistently one-shot all but one tier 5 tank destroyer. Any tank you meet will be hesitant to come after you. You hit very nearly as hard as some tier 9 heavies. The 100mm gun is perfectly usable, and is probably better than the first 122mm gun, but with 250 damage per shot, even with the better gun handling and slightly better DPM, the 100mm is just not as good as the top 122mm gun. 122mm is also a very good caliber, as it auto-penetrates any armor it hits that is 40mm thick or less, which is very useful against opponents like the T29, which has a turret roof that is just 38mm thick.



Maybe you need more reasons, though. How about mobility? The IS has fantastic mobility for a heavy tank, with a power/weight ratio that's tied for 2nd best among the tier 7 heavies at 15.14 hp/t, and a respectable 34 kmh top speed.



The IS's armor is not great for its tier, but it's still entirely usable, if you know how to sidescrape. You have 90mm of side armor, which is 2nd best at tier 7, slightly behind the Black Prince. You can often bait shots into your side just by sticking it out a bit, well-angled of course, and then after the enemy bounces, you quickly poke out, thanks to your mobility, and do 390 damage. Your turret is rather weak with a pretty large cupola, but you can reduce the chance of these getting hit thanks to your good mobility. Pull out quickly, take the shot, and then get back into cover quickly. Even if you do get penetrated, just be sure to hit them in return. Chances are your alpha damage is better than theirs.



There are only two real problems with this tank. First is its penetration. It has 175mm with standard AP and 217 with premium APCR, which can feel very poor at times, especially when you're bottom tier. Luckily, the IS's mobility allows it to either get to the flank of an enemy tank, or get it out of situations where it's facing an opponent it can't fight and can't flank.


The other problem is the stock grind, which gives you an 85mm gun, still poor aim time, and a poor power/weight ratio of just 13.26. Hopefully you've unlocked the 2nd 85mm gun via the T-34-85. Make sure you research the 122mm gun on the KV-85. For the IS itself, you can unlock the 100mm gun, but it's  best if you just go for the upgraded turret, and then mount the first 122mm gun. From there, it's best to research the tracks, then the top 122mm gun, then the engine, the radio, and if you haven't yet unlocked them in a different line, unlock the 2nd 85mm gun and the 100mm gun. You'll want them on other Soviet tanks eventually.


Vs. IS-2

Now, why should this be a destination tank, and not the Chinese IS-2? The main reason is the tanks around it. Leading to the IS, you have the KV-1 and KV-1S, which are both excellent tier 5 tanks, and KV-85 which is a decent tier 6, compared to the the Chinese Type T-34 at tier 5, which is good but not great, and the Type 58 at tier 6, which is probably the worst tier 6 medium tank. At tier 8, you have the IS-3, which is still one of the best tier 8 tanks in the game, whereas the Chinese get the 110, which has its strengths, but is not as good as the IS-3. The tier 9s are both very good, and the only tier China wins at is tier 10 with the 113 being better than the IS-7.

KOONDAARIE #202 Posted Apr 17 2017 - 01:34


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Hadez411 #203 Posted Apr 17 2017 - 19:54


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Destination ARL 44 - The rest is a pleasure cruise.

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The ARL 44 is my first choice as a destination tank and my overall favorite. It was my first and toughest won heavy line, but also the most rewarding, having  brought me to love all of France's tanks. I look at the AMX M4 49 Liberte as the ARL 44's bigger brother and I would trade anything in my garage to have it.

This guide will talk about the process of playing the French heavy line from tiers VI to X, focusing on the ARL 44, AMX 50 100 and AMX 50B in regards to their effective play styles, strengths and weaknesses. The goal is to quickly familiarize players with these tanks and the most effective ways to play them. This does not include general information like map tactics, load outs and skill preferences nor does it cover early tiers.

ARL 44 - Here the fun begins!
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The ARL 44 will allow you to participate in clan wars, strongholds and tournaments as soon as tier VI. Going further down this line will provide you with a competitive tank at tiers VIII and X as well. It is a very effective tank when played to it's strengths, but not a head on tank as some make the mistake of assuming. Your most effective forms of engagement are going to be medium-range engagements with minimized exposure, fighting on corners/berms and fighting from high ground. All the while you should take advantage of the areas of the tracks that will absorb hits and take no damage (see below). This tank is very clumsy to play with a new crew and you must take more time to aim your shots and predict your targets movements. It later becomes incredibly strong with an advanced crew and practiced technique.

Armor: The armor is generally considered to be made of paper, but can be used hull-down or to poke corners and berms (below). It can also bounce shots or bait shots quite effectively. The tracks will absorb shots in the front if you can convince your enemy to shoot them, your turret will deflect gold rounds off of all the outer edges and the middle(below), providing a small, moving target to hit if you rock back and forth. Also, the ARLs frontal armor will not bounce all shots head-on unless you are on higher ground or bait shots with your front plate before fully cresting a hill (above left). Even at maximum depression it can be penetrated straight on, especially with gold rounds. Crest hills at a slight angle to improve on this.
Damage: The penetration and alpha are superior to most other tanks of the same tier, so if you haven't mastered the angles of the armor yet you can still generally survive a battle of 1-for-1 shot trading. Do not get in a death lock until you have bruised your enemy a little or you will likely lose in a DPM vs. HP battle against other heavies your tier. Pull out your premium ammo for a very noticeable boost in damage and penetration, which is rare among tanks.
Mobility: With a new crew, your tank traverse is very poor and you will be circled to death if you let your enemy in close. This will be your Achilles heel to begin with but it will improve significantly with crew skills, consumables and your experience with the tank.

AVOID: KV-2 and artillery


ARL Armor Thickness
Source: tanks.gg
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Shown below, is the ideal angle to face your enemy when cornering and baiting a shot. Colors represent effective armor at that angle. Pink and red will bounce, green will penetrate. If you come at corners with your gun at 2 o'clock (below), pointed at your enemy, and stop before you expose more than the leading edge of your tank their shot will bounce or hit track. Alternatively, a berm that hides the green area on your tank will be a strong position to take and if just your turret is poking out, make sure to move back and forth as about half of the turret area will bounce a shot. Maintain distance from your enemy to make the turret increasingly difficult to score a hit on while rocking back and forth.
Source: tanks.gg

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AMX 50 100 - Smooth sailing all the way through.
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The AMX 50 100 is a powerhouse of a tank that has the potential to clip any other tier 8 tank. Doing so requires some skillful use of the mobility and almost non-existent armor. Mobility and psychology play a huge role in the effectiveness of this tank when bluffing through a reload or bullying an opponent. It is most effective when initially played as a support tank and then used to rapidly flank and tear apart a failing line. If you face too many enemies at once, too early on before they are low hp, you will not survive. Also, you will often be a primary target due to the softness and threat of your tank. As such, approaching enemies to empty a clip while they are aware of your whereabouts is inadvisable as it takes 12 or more seconds to empty a clip and arty will 1-hit you (edit 9.18) probably stun you really bad. Find new angles of attack or die, in general you don't bounce shots.
If you are going to engage someone that you cannot finish and that may chase you, do not fire all of your rounds until you are in a safe location to reload. This will prevent them from being certain you are empty and allow you to take a shot at their track if needed. If you clip a nearby enemy and they haven't died, remember that you are a heavy tank that goes very fast with a thin piece of 120mm armor on the nose (below). Train the "Controlled Impact" skill to add a "7th shell" to your repertoire which will finish off many players that may otherwise have spent the next ~40 seconds shooting you.
This tank is widely accepted as a competitive tank in tier 8 play.

Armor: The only way you are likely to bait some shots that will bounce is shown in a photo below. Otherwise, it is very likely they will penetrate your tank. With this in mind, use your health points as your armor and constantly be thinking about how to more effectively trade those points. Don't come at people half loaded, get them by surprise or in unison with an ally and engage from a safe distance if you can't finish a target. Due to the tiny turret on the 50 100, maintaining a hull down position in this tank makes you a very small target and an effective sniper. Following an IS-3 or another tank of similar height will also shield all but your turret.
Damage: If you have nerves of steel and aim your shots perfectly for the weak spots on the opponents tank, you can toe-to-toe and clip any tier 8 tank (until they added the 100.p, now you need RNG). The gun is accurate, if slow to aim, and can be used in a sniper role if needed. Ideally you want to have an enemy that has a limited capacity to fire back and feed a clip in to him without hindrance, from medium range. Keeping a non-autoloading ally close by also helps ensure you can reload and remain alive. A general rule of thumb is that you will shoot two shots for another tanks one. Use this knowledge to dodge or bait a shot from a superior position every now and then as opposed to providing a static target while unloading.
Mobility: The mobility of this tank is excellent and you can very quickly race between flanks. The gun traverses a little slowly for a circling brawl with a more nimble tank but overall you can hold your own in such a situation, especially if you ram said lighter tank.

AVOID: Artillery

Overall armor on the AMX 50 100
Source: tanks.gg

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Below are two ideal angles to bait shots. First with the turret, by pointing the barrel skywards as you expose just the top of your turret over a ridge. Secondly with the nose, by pointing your barrel at 2 O'clock (below) on your tank and facing the barrel towards your enemy, then poking the leading edge to deflect shots if you can convince them to take a shot.
Source: tanks.gg

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AMX 50B - Can you reach your destination twice?
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The AMX 50B is the most fun tier 10 tank there is to play. It's potential for sniping, flanking and ramming make it an essential tank in many team strategies. The armor is similar to that of the AMX 50 100 in that it will not deflect much except at extreme angles, everyone will look at you as free damage and artillery will target you. Bully occupied players or smaller tanks when the opportunities present themselves and obfuscate your reload time if possible. It is unlike the AMX 50 100 in that the clip damage will no longer kill an equal tier player in one clip, but it reloads much faster. Essentially you have the same clip damage potential but are now able to unload, reload and relocate much more quickly.
You must also put everything you learned about effectively trading hp on the 50 100 to use with the 50B, but now you have more hp and mobility. This allows for more opportunities to unload a clip and better ability to get away, resulting in some very high damage scores when applied correctly.
The nose is specifically designed for ramming on this tank and the Controlled Impact skill will now become essential. With a heavy spall liner on, a full speed 50B can ram for 600-800 damage against a similarly heavy opponent, on top of the ~1600 damage per clip and it's ability to drive circles around other heavies.

Armor: Aside from baiting shots at oblique angles on the nose of your tank and from higher ground, the best you can do with your armor is damage control in most cases. Use your maneuverability to direct a slow enemies shots at your tracks or to a non-vital area of your tank. When aiming at a target, even at maximum depression, the majority of your turret and upper tank can be easily penetrated (below). To add a 50/50 chance of bouncing some rounds, turn your turret left and right as you retreat over a hill from firing a clip, or between shots when facing another auto loader.
Damage: Between bursts of up to around 1600 damage you have just under 30 seconds to find a new position to empty your next clip from. Don't get caught sitting around at the same spot in front line waiting to reload. The penetration on this tank is more than adequate with premium ammo and without.
Mobility: Your mobility on flat ground is quite good but going uphill is mediocre. Maintain your momentum when you are covering new ground as you have no armor to protect you when you lose the element of surprise. Your ability to move quickly, paired with your quick reload, means you can now do a rolling retreat. Unload a clip then retreat to the next piece of cover and so on.
In random battles mobility is both your curse and your blessing. There are many advantageous spots that are available to the 50B, your team however may not be as quick and if you are over extended you will be easily overwhelmed. When on an equal tier, support first and take a leading role afterwards.
If after a ram and clip your enemy is still alive, use your mobility to reduce damage to your tank by driving erratically and jerkily.

AVOID: FV215B, artillery, T57 Heavy

AMX 50B Armor Thickness
Source: tanks.gg

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When aiming at a target, even from the high ground or over a hill, they can easily penetrate you from the front. Raising your barrel and turning your turret between the 11 O'clock and 1 O'clock position on your tank will provide a difficult to predict and 50% deflective surface, should you become tracked or need to retreat for a reload.

Source: tanks.gg

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agtdetructor #204 Posted Apr 17 2017 - 20:37

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I do not know if I can translate well, but I'll try: c

Edited by agtdetructor, Apr 17 2017 - 20:38.

_MilkSter_ #205 Posted Apr 18 2017 - 00:00


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Saving my free Xp for

Edited by _MilkSter_, Apr 18 2017 - 00:00.

PaisleyKnave507 #206 Posted Apr 18 2017 - 02:52


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In the Soviet line, there are many peculiar tanks. Some are faster than others while others can't even reach their top speed. *cough* IS-7 *cough* 


The T-10  is the tier IX tank before the monster IS-7 at tier X. This tank however has a great many features that both the IS-3 and IS-7 would be jealous of. This guide will start off at how the tank looks on paper then it will move onto the play styles and ways to use this tank effectively on the battlefield. 


Let's start off with the gun. As it is the first stat shown in the garage, I will start with this. The guns on this tank consist of 3 122mm main cannons. Note, each of these cannons can be used on either of the turrets this tank gets and all three have a similar 2.9 second aim time.


1. The first gun you get, the stock gun, is a 122mm D-25T. This gun you might find underwhelming. With 175mm pen on it's AP rounds, 0.46 dispersion (at 100m) and 390 alpha damage, it's a gun you most likely will never use because you researched the top gun on the IS-3 which is also on this tank.


2. The second gun on this monster is a 122mm BL-9. This is the same as the top gun on the IS-3. This gun is more accurate than the D-25T with 0.4 dispersion and a better 225mm pen on it's standard AP rounds, you'll most likely play this gun like the IS-3 because it's the same one as on the IS-3. 


3. The third and final gun on this tank is the 122mm M62-T2. This gun is unique because it does not go on the IS-7, this gun is the same as on the IS-4. This gun is more accurate (0.38 at 100m), has a better standard AP pen (258mm), and has a much higher alpha damage of 440 as opposed to the other two guns you get with 390 alpha damage. This gun is special however, not because it's better but because of it's premium ammo. It fires HEAT rounds. These monster rounds get 340mm pen on average. This is enough to pen the Maus frontally on it's upper plate with an average pen roll. 


Second stat in the garage is the survivability. This section will consist of the armor profile, weak points on the tank, and will be combined with the spotting stats (view range). 


When you first buy the tank, the first turret you get is comparatively weak to the upgraded turret ad will only give you 1700 hit points.  


The turret designated "T-10" has a decent armor profile and good view range (390mm). The armor profile is 201mm on the front of the turret, 129mm on the side of the turret, and 90mm at the rear of the turret. However, there is a weak point above the gun. This patch of 30mm armor is easily overmatched by any 91mm caliber guns and over (which most tier 8-10 tanks have). It's a flaw that very few people actually know about. This is only on the stock turret, not on the upgraded turret. The cheek armor on the turret can ricochet many of the shells you'll meet. However, be careful of HEAT ammunition, this will (most likely) go right through your turret. 


The second turret, designated "T-10M", has a better armor profile than the previous turret, adds 100hit points, and gives better view range (400m). The armor profile has 250mm on the front, 201mm on the side, and the same 90mm on the rear.  There is still a weak point of 30mm, however, this is much smaller than on the previous turret. Only highly accurate guns or tall tanks will be able to hit this reliably. This turret's effective armor ranges from 320mm to a whopping 510mm on the edge of the cheeks. This is an amazing turret to have and clearly leads to the IS-7. Again, watch out for HEAT ammunition. 



The hull armor of this tank is amazing considering the speed of the tank. It has 120mm of front and side armor with a 60mm plate on the rear. This tank, like the IS-3 before it, has a pike nose. This will angle the armor, increasing it's effective values from 120mm to 220-240mm. This comes at a cost though. The lower plate is large and weak. It's poor angling makes it a nice target for any tank just like on the IS-3. With only ~190mm of effective armor, it's a spot you need to hide. Another warning, DO NOT ANGLE THIS TANK (unless reverse sidescraping). This will weaken your frontal hull armor to 170-180mm which is easily penned by EVERYONE. Hull down is this tank's best friend. You will need to hide the lower plate and your turret will serve you well. 


Just like the IS-3, the side armor is spaced. It's good for absorbing HEAT shells and ricocheting AP and APCR shells. Just watch out for HE and HESH ammunition. 




The next stat displayed is mobility. This is where the T-10 shines. 


This tank gets a great engine, 750hp and a 15% chance to be set on fire. This engine will give you incredible mobility. With a top speed of 50km/h, you'll move almost like a medium tank. The great mobility of this tank allows you to get into position quickly and the great gun and turret will give you control of the battlefield. 


The ground resistances of this vehicle are mediocre at best. 0.96 on hard, 1.05 on medium, and 1.86 on soft. These need to be reduced in order to allow this tank to reach it's full, speedy potential.


This tank has the acceleration of an IS-3 and a top speed like an IS-7 which is amazing even for a medium tank. It can change flanks quickly and has the armor and hitpoints to take a few shots getting there. 




Now for loadout and crew suggestions. 


For your equipment, always start with a gun rammer. This will up your DPM by 10% and everyone loves more DPM. The next slot is a vertical stabilizer. This will offset the bad aim time of 2.9 seconds. The third slot should be taken up by a gun laying drive, however, some players like to swap that out with vents. 


For your crew, always go for sixth sense on your commander, snapshot on your gunner, off-road driving for your driver, and repairs for your loader (which you should swap out for safe stowage when at 100%). Second skill should be situational awareness for your commander (he is the radio operator), armorer for your gunner, clutch braking for your driver, and either adrenaline rush or repairs for your loader. Third skill should be BIA for everyone. Fom there, it's up to the player. You could go a full camo route or all repairs to get out of sticky situations.





Unlike most Soviet heavies, this one has speed. It will outpace some medium tanks at tier 9 but don't let that fool you. This tank has a special play style. 


Due to the thick turret and relatively weak hull, you will want to go hull down as much as possible. For example, if on Himmelsdorf, use one of those cubbies around the center courtyard. Just be aware of your map and don't let tanks flank you. That's your job.


Another tactic is reverse sidescraping. This tactic is particularly useful on city maps like Ruinberg. Check out the IS-3 tank guide on youtube for more info on how to reverse sidescrape.



Finally, if on an open map like Murovanka, Prokhorovka, or Highway, it's best to use your mobility to flank around enemies. Use your gun to take a chunk of HP out of them and retreat, reload, and go again but from a different angle. 


This tank plays in ways like a light tank and others a heavy tank. It's almost like the CDC, only it has armor worth mentioning. 

Now for my thoughts,

This tank is one of my favorites. It combines great mobility with a good gun. This is what I imagine a good, balanced tank looks like. The only problems I see with this tank are it's HP and frontal armor. It's HP is relatively low for a heavy tank and way lower than the 2,150 the IS-7 gets and the frontal armor is lackluster for a high tier heavy. You should use your mobility to your advantage and outflank your opponents to get rid of them, however, hull down is a good place to be as well. 


This tank is an amazing stop on the way to the armor beast that is the IS-7, a tier higher. Just remember to use your mobility to get around your opponents if you can't pen them frontally. It's reminiscent of the Emil line of the Swedish tanks, but without the autoloader.


Finally, remember that the Soviets were not known for their gun depression. You won't be working ridgelines like a Conqueror or ST-1 (the other tier 9 Soviet heavy), but you won't be outpaced by anything other than a medium tank or an autoloader at your tier. 

Edited by PaisleyKnave507, Apr 18 2017 - 20:21.

Red_chrome #207 Posted Apr 18 2017 - 03:40


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A n00b's guide to the KV-1, or "How I stopped worrying and learned to love dragging my heels".


This is written as if being presented as a guide to very new players (of which I still am one). It mirrors my experiences and opinion. Your mileage will vary, especially if you have any experience in the game. It has unfortunately become excessively long, so here's the TL,DR version:


  1. Get KV-1.
  2. Drive forward, see enemy, shoot enemy.
  3. Profit!


Advantages of the KV-1:


The KV-1 was one of the first tanks this author got, and is still one of his favorites. In his opinion, it's one of the best tanks for new players, and here are some reasons why:

  •  "Russian bias" - The KV-1 is an iconic part of Soviet tank history, so the developers writing this game cannot in good conscience allow it to be a dog of a tank in the game.
  • Good armor - You can bounce many shots in this tank, and that will save you (for at least a few seconds longer) when you've failed with your situational awareness and tactical map reading skills.
  • You can learn to sidescrape - Sidescraping is a very important game mechanic, and it's hard to learn. The thicker your armor, the easier it is to learn. The KV-1 allows you to start learning this relatively more easily than other tanks.
  • Whacking great gun(s) - There are 3 perfectly good gun choices for the KV-1.
    • It's very cheap to upgrade from the initial 76mm.
    • To the 57mm, which has a high rate of fire and very good accuracy, all the advantages we see in similar guns on the Churchill III and Matilda. It's fast-firing which allows you to recover from misses faster, has decent penetration (highest of all the guns when using APCR), and very good accuracy which makes getting hits easier. It's a very good gun for beginners and experienced players alike.
    • The 85mm on the other hand combines all-around good damage, accuracy, and penetration. It doesn't damage like the 122mm, or shoot as fast and accurately as the 57mm, but it's a very good all-around compromise.
    •    The 122mm has poor penetration and accuracy, but does monster damage when you hit. If you're interested in going to the KV-2, this is a good warm-up for the monster gun on that tank.
  •  Decent accuracy - With all but the 122mm gun, the accuracy is better than some higher-tier Soviet tanks. So there aren't as many frustrating misses as you might find at higher tiers.
  • Slow speed - Yes, low top speed can be an advantage. New players with commendable levels of aggression eagerly drive forward into battle - and then find themselves too far forward and out of position to be supported by their team. A slower tank keeps you from driving into trouble too quickly. By the time the KV-1 gets to the fighting, someone else has already made contact with the enemy at several points, and you're less likely to blunder into them unexpectedly. You can see where the fighting is and go to where you're needed, which is a better role for new players than trying to find the enemy by catching shells with your face.
  • You can go pretty far with the KV-1 - The skill floor is relatively low, but the skill cap is still high. Experienced players may be hampered by the low speed, and desire the KV-1S for an improvement on that parameter (and others) but the XP and damage requirements for the Ace Tanker and Marks of Excellence levels show that a lot of people enjoy this tank enough to stick with it for a long time and play it at some very high skill levels.

Recommended Equipment:


  • Vents - These help all the parameters the crew's skill level affects. The only reasons to choose something other than vents are: 1. If the tank won't take vents, or 2. if the tank is very specialized. Neither of these apply to the KV-1, so put vents on it.
  • Rammer - The base DPM of the KV-1 is pretty good, so adding a rammer is beneficial. You will be thankful for this when you're slugging it out with someone and need all the reload speed you can get.
  • Coated Optics - The KV-1's view range is pretty awful. While arguably this means that adding 10% to the view range isn't very helpful, on the other hand, there is very little that sucks worse than being shot up by an 'invisitank' outside of your view range, so having a good view range is valuable. You may think to try using Binoculars to increase the view range. If you have some, and no superior equipment to go in that slot, use them; however the problem with Binoculars is that you have to stop for several seconds to use them, and a heavy tank which stops moving gets killed by artillery and tank destroyer players.


Other Equipment You May Wish to Substitute:

  • Spall Liner - This may become more valuable with the revisions to artillery in 9.18. Even now though, if you're the sort who hates being shot up by artillery, put one of these on your tank to minimize the damage you'll take from artillery.
  • Gun Laying Drive - The KV-1 moves relatively slowly, and the base accuracy isn't bad, so the gun bloom from movement isn't that awful. You're not going to snap off shots at long range anyway, so I'd recommend against this. Still, if the aim speed bothers you, try it.
  • Toolbox - If you find yourself bothered by how often your tracks get shot off by artillery or other tanks, use this. The main advantage of it is that it can be dismounted and remounted on tanks without spending gold, so you may have one already which you bought for a lower-tier tank and can move to your KV-1 as soon as you get it.



Be a frugal shopper! Save your money, wait for Wargaming to have a sale on consumables, and then buy as many of them as you can afford.


  • Automatic Fire Extinguisher - Especially as a new player; getting a notification that your tank is on fire, panicking, and having to find the correct key for the fire extinguisher, is an incredible exercise in aggravation. Just buy the premium fire extinguisher. You'll only be set on fire once in a hundred battles anyway, so the cost becomes negligible. If you undertake the Personal Missions or some of the missions Wargaming occasionally offers, you may even pick up a few of them for free.
  • Large Repair Kit - Think like a winner! Don't think "I'm about to get killed, so I'm not going to bother fumbling for the repair kit, finding the correct keys, and repairing a broken module", instead think "I'm going to remap a premium repair kit to the Left-Alt key so I can hit it easily with my thumb, and won't have to fumble for the correct keys while squinting at hard-to-read numbers on the screen. This will let me fight a few seconds longer, rack up more player experience and game XP, and thus increase my scores and win rate incrementally." Also, if unused, the Large Repair Kit speeds up module repair, shaving a second or more off your time to repair your tracks.
  • Small First Aid Kit - It's not terribly common to have multiple crewmembers injured in the same game in this tank, so the Small First Aid Kit is adequate. Also, losing a crewmember doesn't immobilize you like track damage does, so you can afford to get behind cover and then take a moment to fumble for the correct keys to heal the wounded crewmember. However, if you feel like you're often pounded by artillery, the Large First Aid Kit also has a prophylactic effect in that it reduces the likelihood of crewmembers being injured.


Crew Skills:

As a new player, don't worry about it too much. They're nice to have, but the player's skills matter so much more, especially in this tank with its relatively straightforward playstyle. The author starts his commander out with the Mentor skill, so the other crewmembers train up faster. The other crewmembers are trained to do Repairs, since you'll get your tracks blown off often. If you like, once you hit 100% (or 100%+40% if you're not retraining with gold) you can retrain your commander with 6th Sense and start learning Mentor all over again.


How to Make it Work:


Drive Forward, See Enemy, Shoot Enemy. It's one of the easiest tanks in the game to learn to play with. There's plenty of advanced techniques you can learn, but those will come with time as you watch others, watch training videos, and get smacked upside the head when you do something stupid.


You have a stronger turret than hull, so try to remain 'hull down' as much as possible. This means exposing as little of your tank as possible - ideally just the gun. Note how in the pictures below, that the front of the turret (the 'mantlet' around the gun, where the upper left corner of the popup information box is placed) offers armor thicker than most tanks of the same or lower tier can reliably penetrate with their standard ammunition. They will need to use premium ammunition (with its associated much higher cost) to penetrate this. The side of the turret is even thicker when shot at the angle shown in the picture - almost impenetrable by many tanks. So don't show the enemy the side of your turret at a right angle to their gun, show it to them at a very acute angle.

However, it's best to not try 'cresting' a ridge or hill - don't go over the top, go around the side. Going over the top often means that you'll have to bring almost your whole tank up onto the top of the landform in order to get your gun pointed down onto the target. This ends up exposing too much of your tank in practice. Instead, follow The_Chieftain's advice "Tanks go as the water flows (but don't go where the high reeds grow)." Go around the hill and use the 'foot' of the hill to hide your hull if possible (and don't go into the water or the soft ground where you'll bog down and be an even slower, easier target).


If at all possible, find a buddy to train with, go into a training room, and practice sidescraping, aiming at weakspots, etc. See just how much you can and need to expose around a corner, what angle to hold your tank at, and what it's like to have your tracks blown off but otherwise be undamaged. Figure out where internal modules (ammoracks, crew, fuel tanks) are on your training partner's tank. Note in the picture below how thick the side armor is when held at an angle. It's 75mm thick, but at this angle it's effectively 171mm thick. Most tanks of the same or lower tier will have trouble penetrating that.


If you find yourself in a Tier 6 or Tier 7 battle, get out of the way of the higher tier heavies, and follow them into the fight. Let them stop a shell with their face in the course of finding the enemy, they can survive it better than you can. What you can do is hang back just behind the higher tier heavies (but not directly behind them in case they need to back up!) and stop any pesky mediums or lights trying to flank your group of heavies.



One could make a good argument for the Matilda, in that much like the KV-1 with the 57mm it has strong armor and a fast-firing gun. Also, it's 1 tier lower and thus much cheaper to get to. Much like the KV-1 the armor helps you survive mistakes of positioning, and the fast-firing gun helps you recover quickly from missed shots. However, it suffers from a couple of deficiencies:


  •  It's Tier 4, so it gets -1/+2 matchmaking. Also, there are more players wanting to play at Tier5 than at Tiers 3 & 4. So it's going to be bottom tier more often than not, and won't have the HP to slug it out with many of the tanks it will meet. (Let's face it, if you're a new player you'll tend to just slug it out because you don't yet know any maneuvering and positioning to avoid being shot.)
  •  It's not in the Soviet tech tree, which features an enormous range of other good tanks to move on to. The British tree isn't bad per se, it just doesn't have as much room for growth as the Soviet tree.


So while the Matilda is arguably the best Tier 4 for new players, that's still not as good as being Tier 5 where the matchmaking is much more favorable.

How To Get There:


This advice may be a bit unconventional, because it rewards patience. This advice is not how to 'play a game' or 'win' or even 'just have fun'. This is how to play the game well. The other parts will fall out as a result. It seems that many people want to rush into higher-tier tanks as quickly as possible - always chasing the 'new thing' thinking it will solve their problem - and only try to get better once they've gotten deep into the higher tiers and discover how poor their skills really are. The problem is that when you play at higher tiers you're just getting yourself into bigger problems. Higher tier tanks are like 4-wheel drive. They allow you to drive further into trouble before you get really stuck. When you're still fumbing through how to steer and go around corners smoothly; trying to play against people who know how to sidescrape, have a good sense of when to time a rush, and know how to ambush you from odd positions, is an exercise in frustration. Remember, the amateur practices until they can get something correct, the expert practices until they can't get it wrong. Don't be in a hurry to get to higher tiers.


I would advise new players to skip Tiers 3 & 4. Since matchmaking at those tiers gives you -1/+2 (you can only see tanks one tier lower than you, but up to two tiers higher than you), and you'll usually be driving a 'light' tank, you're often just cannon fodder. It's a completely different game between Tier 2 and Tier 5, and the sort of tactics you could get away with at Tier 2 (drive forward, see enemy, shoot enemy) suddenly do not work at Tiers 3 & 4. Why? Because as noted above, Tier 3&4 tanks get into Tier 5 battles excessively often. So they get dropped into battles with KV-1s, can't penetrate the KV-1's armor, and get wiped off the map in short order. Would you rather be the one wiping people off the map, or being frustrated out of your mind as you are repeatedly wiped off the map? As a new player, you need to get into a tank which allows you to get away with "drive forward, see enemy, shoot enemy" tactics as you learn more advanced things like sidescraping, map awareness, weak points, etc. Tier 5 is almost like learning to play the game all over again after learning the basics at Tier 2. You will do lots of dumb things all over again as you try to come to grips with the new maps and better play levels. The KV-1 is a tank which is relatively forgiving as you learn your way around the higher tiers.


So here's the author's advice:


Play 100 games at Tier 1. It may be frustrating because the tanks are so slow and clumsy, and the teams are chaotically inept; but at this point you're still figuring out how to drive the tank, read the map, not tunnel vision too badly, and hit your target. Playing against players at your skill level gives you target tanks to practice on rather than be killed by, so your skills will improve faster due to the additional practice.


Play at least 500 games at Tier 2 (in an M2 Light or Panzer II). Here the tanks get faster and more capable. Players generally drive in the correct direction at the correct time. The tanks become more differentiated, and some tanks work noticeably better than others in the game as it currently stands. Maps like Mittengard are duels with machineguns in a phone booth - so have a machinegun and some armor. The M2 Light and Panzer II fit that the best. Spending what some would call an inordinate amount of time at this tier means you'll have much more solid skills when you move on, and won't be as much of a burden to your team. Would you rather be the one carrying the game, or the one being carried? However, there are limits to how far you can go at Tier 2 - the games are still pretty chaotic compared to higher tiers, and that can make it very difficult to influence the course of the battle at times, and limits how much you can learn there.


Watch your Service Record and see which tank you're scoring the best kill-to-death and damage ratio in. Try to kill more enemy tanks than you are killed by. That's a good way to judge at which tier you should be playing. Do you still need to work on the basics, or can you move on to more advanced stuff?


While you're playing these games and building your skills, you're also accumulating Free XP. Once you have enough Free XP you can buy your way to the KV-1, bypassing all the lower-tier tanks on the way to it. While tanks like the T-46 and the T-28 are not bad tanks per se, they have some shortcomings which make them relatively difficult for new players to play well. If you feel like it, go back and play them later when you've developed more skills. Spend your time playing good tanks, and enjoy the time you spend playing. Don't waste your time on bad tanks.


However, if you're impatient, here's some advice on progressing through the lower tiers leading up to the KV-1:


MS-1 - It's a Tier 1 tank. Spend enough time here to research all the tanks coming from it, later on you'll thank yourself for doing so.

T-26 - A decent tank, but unfortunately one which doesn't fit with the current nature of the Tier 2 maps. You'll find yourself machinegunned down by Panzer IIs and M2 Lights constantly; which have better armor, higher speed, and better burst damage on their guns. Try to stay behind the front line, but don't camp at the back. Take the flanks such as the island on Mines or the 1-3 lines on Himmelsdorf. The 37mm gun has good accuracy and penetration, so you'll find that even though the DPM is theoretically a bit worse than the 45mm, it does damage more often in practice. As soon as you can afford it, buy Binoculars (and then a Camo Net and a Toolbox). You will move these modules on to other tanks as you get them. The Binoculars are a game-changer at Tier 2 because suddenly you can become the invisitank that others cry 'haxx!' about.

T-46 and T-28 - If you're a new player I'd suggest avoiding these for the reasons mentioned above when talking about Tier 3 & 4. However, if you're willing to suffer the pain and humiliation of playing them:

  •  When you're top tier, play them like you did the T-26.
  •  When you're not top tier, don't go where the heavies go - you'll get squished. Try to support the mediums with additional firepower and vision (remember those Binoculars!) and stay alive, but don't hide at the back or near the base.


As a side note, I would really love to win an AMX M4/49 because it may be the sexiest tank in the game, and I'll get to play with all the really pretty French camo patterns. I've loved the Tiger II since I was a kid, and the M4/49 is a Tiger II with some streamlining and styling improvements. I don't normally play French tanks, but the time I got an M4/49 as a rental I enjoyed it tremendously. While there are many other tanks which would be a more practical choice for the nations and tank types I play, it's hard to resist the sexiness of the M4/49.


Shredder17 #208 Posted Apr 18 2017 - 04:11


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A Newcomers Guide to the ISU-152 (AKA, the Troll Cannon)


By Shredder17



So, tanker initiate, you have come to learning the secrets of the great ISU-152. No doubt your curiosity has been piqued by what your elders have been telling you; Grand tales of mighty foes smote with but a single shot, and of platoons of enemies frozen in fear of this mighty machine of war. Who would not want such a weapon at their disposal?


And yet...I sense hesitation in you, young one. You have probably already read through the holy texts, The Wargaming Wiki, and what you have seen has troubled you. You see the good, yes, but the bad weighs on your mind more heavily than you had thought it would. You look upon the statistics a see a vehicle that is cumbersome and vulnerable. Worst of all, you see how heavily it depends on the mercy of our lord RNGesus, who is as fickle as he is gracious. I can tell that this troubles you greatly, my child, and you are unsure of how to proceed.


But you need not worry, for I am here to dispel all doubt from you mind. Through my wisdom you will learn that the ISU-152, the mighty Trollcannon, is above all others that would roll across the fields of battle.




The Path You Must Take.


Above all else, the Trollcannon wants to be driven into battle, regardless of the worthiness of the driver. To that end, it has ensured that the road one will take to it is as smooth as possible. This line of tank destroyers is the greatest there is, with little “grinding” as you would understand it; the entire line is an utter joy to play, even at its slowest. You are likely to keep one or more of these tank destroyers, even as you climb towards your ultimate prize.


The AT1, SU-76, SU-85b and SU-85 are all decent machines. While potent at their tier, they have little that distinguishes them from their opposing numbers and they lack the spark of those that come after them. The progression here is reasonably quick, so you need not wait long for the truly magnificent ones.


The SU-100 is the first taste of what is to come. At first it will seem familiar to its predecessor, save for some additional armour and hitpoints. It is only once you acquire the 122mm gun that you truly understand. The weapon is slow firing and inaccurate, but it hits hard at tier six and is potent enough to penetrate most higher tier opponents. Hone the skills you develop with this gun, for they will aid you when you finall reach the ISU.


The SU-152 is the final step before acquiring the Trollcannon, but it also here that many neglect . You see, this vehicle has a pair of 122mm guns in an optional research branch; you do not need to research them to get the ISU, and many choose not, favoring the stock 152mm howitzer and a quicker trip to the ISU. But the ISU shares these guns, and you need them to get the all important BL-10, so I would advise you to research them while still at tier seven rather than slug through it at tier eight.


Once past the SU-152, you will finally set eyes upon the glory of the ISU-152. But your work is not done quite yet, for you still need to rouse the great beast, and for that you need the BL-10. It will take some time, even with the 122mm guns already researched, but when you finally succeed you will know a sweetness and a warmth you will never get even from the embrace of a loved one. Finally, true power is within your grasp!



The Gifts And Skills You Will Need.


The ISU-152 is mighty and fearsome beyond easy reckoning, but it will not reach its full potential alone. You will need to to provide it with equipment and talented servants to get see its true glory.


A Large Caliber Gun Rammer should be your first priority, as it will boost the Trollcannons rate of fire. While very expensive, hearing the cannon sing more often is definitely worth the price.


A Camouflage Net should be your next acquisition. The ISU wants to strike from beyond sight and the net will help enable this.


The third choice will depend on whether you can trust those who will be fighting by your side in battle. If you doubt your team will adequately spot for you, Telescopic Binoculars will let you spot for yourself. If you have faith in your fellow tankers, Improved Ventilation will provide a general boon to your capabilities.


As for your crew, you should give them Camouflage and Brothers in Arms before moving on to other skills of your choice. The sole exception is the commander, who should also receive Sixth Sense as soon as he is able; knowing when the enemy has found you is not to be under-valued.




The Strength Of The Beast.


It is said that a tanks greatness can be determined by virtue of three qualities; how quickly it can reach an enemy, how long it can survive in the presence of an enemy and how badly it can hurt an enemy. In the first two the ISU-152 avails itself adequately, but it is only with regards to the last that it truly comes into its own.


What must be said with regards to mobility is that the ISU, whatever else it may be, is not slow. It will keep pace with all but the faster mediums and lights and will generally be able to reach ideal Sniping positions within a time acceptable to your patience, however short it may be. Turning speed is serviable for a Tank Destroyer, though not sufficient to duel most tanks at close range. Acceleration is unremarkable at best and worst.


For defending itself, the ISU relies on avoiding the enemies eye. At this task, the Trollcannon performs well; as long as you are not parked in the middle of a field, the enemy should not know where you are until it is too late for that knowledge to help them. If you are seen, you should endeavor to get out of your foes line of fire,for the armour of the Trollcannon is unlikely to help you in a fight. Only the mantle of the gun can stand against the cannons of your enemies, and even that cannot be depended upon.


But then we come to speak of the gun, and you an finally see why this Tank Destroyer is worshipped. The BL-10 is neither accurate nor rapid-firing, but that matters not. All that matters is that when you pull the trigger, not even gods will be able to withstand the wrath you deliver unto them. 750 average damage and 286 penetration means that enemies you hit will feel how much you hate them, and even the mighty Maus will not tread lightly if he knows you can see him.


How To Harness Its Power.


If you want to achieve glory driving this most holy of machines, you must adhere to two axiums at all times; Keep yourself hidden and keep yourself at a distance. Endeavor to find yourself a bush with a good vantage point to your target and then fire at targets as they appear; your high penetration means that only the weak-spots of the most heavily armoured foes are worth looking for.


To keep hidden while firing, make sure your concealment in front of you is opaque before you fire; this is WOTs way of telling you that you are far enough away from it for it to retain its camouflaging capabilities when you fire through it, even if it is with a BL-10. If this is not possible for whatever reason, then you hide in the bush, fire, than back up behind the nearest hill or piece of hard cover. Do not wait for Sixth Sense to tell you if you have been seen; assume you have, and do not emerge until you are certain the enemy is not looking your way.


Above all else, do not get into a close-ranged duel with your foes; you are neither agile enough to keep them from encircling you nor armoured enough to survive their assault at a range where they cannot be expected to miss. If, through your recklessness, you allow your foes to get close, than you have proven yourself to be a disgrace. You have failed the noble machine that has served you and you should not be permitted to even look upon its hull ever again.


...but this teacher accepts that, sometimes, these things cannot be helped. Sometimes your team fails you, and not even the best gunnery will stop the enemy from closing the distance. If that occurs, do not despair, for the ISU has an advantage even here. So great is the might of the BL-10, so great is its reputation, that other tankers have come to fear it. None will risk being struck by you if they can avoid it, and from this you can benifit. Get behind a ridge or a buildings corner and you will witness the spectacle of multiple mediums, lights and even heavies milling around on the other side; though they could overwhelm you, none will be brave enough to risk be the one to receive your greeting. They may try to bait you, but until you fire your gun they will not dare commit to an attack. Use this to your advantage.



Some Words of Wisdom.


I have imparted all that you need to know for you to wield this mighty beast, but there is some final advice that you would be wise to heed.


That advice is to be patient. The nickname of this Tank Destroyer, “Trollcannon”, is well deserved, for it will test your temperament often. Shots you though would be certain hits will miss, and shells you thought would penetrate will conspire to be eaten by tracks or bounce off of the flimsiest excuses for armour. At times you will rail against how, in spite of everything logic would dictate, the gun finds a way to fail you.

When this occurs, and it will occur, do not let it trouble your mind. You will forget these individual instances soon enough but the moments of glory you witness, the one-shot kills and the legions of foes too paralysed with fear to move in front of you...those you will cherish until the day your body is too frail to continue drawing breath.


Enjoy your time with the ISU-152, Tanker, and roll out.




Edited by Shredder17, Apr 18 2017 - 04:12.

SuperDestroyer6 #209 Posted Apr 18 2017 - 15:33


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American turreted tank destroyers


this guide is for going tiers 2 - 6 (the t3 gmc, the t56 gmc, the m8a1, the t67, and the hellcat) for a new player however, if you do like the line and choose to continue further, the tree evolves into a completely different play style, like a heavy tank-tank destroyer hybrid.


Just WHY would you want to get these? Well, you have the novelty of having turreted tank destroyers. They have light tank mobility and have high damage per minute so you can crush your opponents with a barrage of shots.


Is the armor on these tanks good? The armor on these tanks is BAD, don't expect to bounce anything. Instead, camp a bush and when you do get spotted, use your mobility and RUN, it's okay to let heavy tanks absorb the damage.


What about the mobility?  The mobility is very good, with the hellcat being the fastest at 72 kmph although the turn speed on these machines is slower than the medium tanks. try playing a camper, or when you are feeling brave, try flanking the enemy to get some damage out of some unsuspecting heavies.


Guns? on the most part the guns are low damage, fast firing guns, with good penetration, but try not to shoot a the front of heavy tanks, try to get the side or rear. the fast firing guns changes when you hit tier six, when you have the option to stay with the fast-firing gun or use a larger gun with higher damage and more penetration. the gun depression is fairly decent on the ones with turrets, but beware of the "blind spot" the back.


equipment? generally you should only do this on tier 5 and up because you won't be spending very long in tiers 2-4. you can't use improved ventilation because all the tanks are open somewhere. Take a camouflage net, enhanced gun laying drive, and a medium caliber gun rammer.


Crew skills? do clutch breaking, camouflage, situational awareness, brothers in arms, and snap shot.


Putting a visual camouflage can be fun and rewarding for the extra camouflage.



Why am I not using abbreviations such as dpm? it's supposed to be for new players isn't it?

Meows_Nyanpasu #210 Posted Apr 19 2017 - 09:47


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121:Cheap Chinese Knockoff

The 121 is the top tier China med and it has the signature Commie wedge design featuring the angled hull and hard rounded turret. The difference between the 121 and its Russian brethren however is that it trades dpm and gun handling for more alpha and significantly sexier camos.


The Grind

The 121 line varies from bad to mediocre, most of the tanks in the line are just inferior versions of their Russian counterpart. There are some gems though.

Type T-34:Fast dpm peashooter just like the regular T-34, however it only has -5 degrees of gun depression in comparison to the -8 the Russian T-34 has

Type 58:Practically the same as the T-34-85, the key difference being that the type 58 only has the first 85mm with 126 pen and 160 alpha. Slightly inferior but still usable.

T-34-1: Actually better than it's russian counterpart. Featuring a sleek profile, good camo, a hard turret and a punch 100mm gun. The gun handles poorly but it can really rack up damage when it works. Also please note that the 100mm is the same gun as the stock gun on the IS-2, use this to minimize the amount of xp needed to grind the 34-1 out of stock configuration. 

T-34-2: Another T-34 clone, except this tank is bad, really bad. Using the 100mm just makes it a straight up inferior T-44. With the 122 you are an RNG slot machine that bleeds credits due to HEAT spam. It does have the same playstyle as the upcoming tanks though.

WZ-120: This is a T-54 that was outfitted to mount a 122. The 122 actually has gun stats comparable to tier 9 heavies and is quite fun to use. However it only has -3 degrees of gun depression so it may be frustrating to play, but stick with it because it will train you to use the -3.5 degrees the 121 has. To maximize grind efficiency research the 113 first as the WZ-120 has the exact same gun so you won't have to research the 122 which helps ease the worst stock grind in the game.

Now onto the 121.





+Hard hull allows for bullying of lower tiers. ~210 effective frontally

+Turret is a tough nut to crack, capable of bouncing shots equal tier heavies and mediums with some reliability

+Decent camo and view range allow you to hurt things without being lit yourself


-Fuel tanks can be damaged from the front which means frontal fires can happen

-Turret top can be overmatched and the cheeks can be penned by tier 10 tds and gold ammo. If you're moving back and forth they can be hard to hit though.

Your classic Communist wedge design.


The hull armor isn't going to provide much protection from tier 10 guns other than the weird bounce so it's best to try and make your angle changes erratic to throw off enemy aim. The turret cheeks are weak but as you get farther away from the mantlet you start to go into the 300-400 effective armor area, it's best to minimize your expose to fire and always be moving to make your weakspots harder to hit.

Mobility and Misc


+It has good top speed which allows it to get into position quickly and once it reaches its top speed it can maintain it fairly well.


-3.5 degrees of gun depressions sucks, there's no way around it, there are some places where you just can't fight due to hills

-Feels sluggish at times, accelerating can take a while

-3.5 degrees is bad, it deserves another point.

There's not much to say here. The gun depression really limits what you can do so you have to work around that. The speed is average although sluggish at times, it's not good but it gets the job done.

Rare footage of a 121 trying to work ridges (recolourized)



+Highest alpha of the tier 10 mediums at 440

+It's dpm is really good at roughly 3.5k. It reloads faster than equal tier heavies despite it's alpha, only out reloaded by the FV215B

+Bloom when moving is actually better than one would expect from a 122

+HEAT travels the same speed as AP which makes its HEAT shell faster than the RU meds and this means you don't need to adjust your aim when switching ammo types. This also means that the only downside to shooting heat is the fact that it gets eaten by spaced armor

+340 heat penetration compared to the usual 330, this must count for something right?


-The gun has a long-ish aimtime

-Low penetration compared when compared to its peers, it makes up the difference by having more normalization due to the standard round being AP and not APCR

-Its shell speed is still slow at 1000m/s

If the Russians are masters at creating blackhole side armor, the Chinese are masters in interior design. Somehow the Chinese engineers were capable at making the space inside the tank bigger than it seems allowing more room for the crew. One would expect the 122 to have a long reload but in actuality it is one of the fastest firing 120mm+ gun at tier 10. The E5,113 and IS-4 all reload slower than the 121 and the gun on the 121 actually handles better. Somehow the 122 on the 121 handles just as well as some NATO meds and actually performs better than the 113's 122, go figure.  At 440 alpha you can out trade all the meds in your tier and below making you a bully of a tank. Accurate representation of the 121 versus other mediums 


Don't ask me how this works. I have no clue why the 122 handles as well as it does.


The whole point to the 121 is the gun. You want to smack things for 440 alpha as often and as accurately as possible. For crew skills pick sixth. gunnery and vision, then go for BIA and repairs. Afterwards you can choose what ever you want, I went for camo because I find myself shooting at 400m quite a bit so it can help prevent you from being counterlit. For equipment you should run Rammer/Vstab/Vents to maximize gun performance. For consumables I double kit and run food, however with the current arty reworks you can drop a repair kit for medkit as consumables are now multi-use and you might want to heal your stunned crew in a pinch.

Stats with above loadout


Tactics and Playstyle

When I Grow Up, I Wanna Be A Real Medium

All the other tier 10 mediums will out reload you so the last thing you want to do is get into a straight up brawl  When facing another medium slow things down. Make the fight maximize your tank's strengths and reduce the effectiveness of the enemy's. With first strike your dpm is comparable to the STB and 430. Make their DPM useless by giving them a hard time to retaliate, they may hit you and do some damage you will hit harder.

Trading 1 for 1 assuming average rolls

T-62A HP 121 HP
1950 1950
1510 1630
1070 1310
630 990
190 670

If you can turn a fight with a medium into a war of attrition you will Always come out on top.

Safety in the Workplace(wear your hardhats)

Given the similar design you would expect the the 121 to play similarily to the other commie wedges. Except, instead of being a DPM-ing generalist like the 140 the 121 is playstyle gravitates towards smacking people who expose themselves to you. However you are still capable of poking out of a hulldown and hitting things repeatedly, except you're exposing yourself less and hitting harder than you would in a russian medium. Instead of going for multiple punches the 121's role is to beat the enemy repeatedly until they stop moving.



On standard himmels (ie not encounter) rushing G3 is viable because there is hulldown cover there so you can just poke out whenever you are loaded. Your hard turret should bounce most shots and you'll be able to shoot people side scraping on tank alley and anyone trying to use the windows

Leveraging Your Strengths:Abusing Alpha as Much as You Wish You Could Abuse Terrain

Instead of positioinng yourself in a place where you can constantly rain death on other tanks like you would in the 100mm mounting wedges. You'll want to put yourself somewhere where tanks are only being exposed for short periods of time, for example a crossing. 



On Ensk you get initital shot into the sides of people crossing into city/field. People usually expose themselves here for a second or 2 at most so 440 alpha makes the most out of the shots you get here. You can also get shots into people entering the main city brawling zone and occasionally people will back up to adjust their sidescrape which allows you to get some shots into sides.


From standard himmels south you can rush up the courtyard into their windows. You can get shots into slackers still in their spawn and then get easy shots into people crossing into tank alley. Then you can choose to flex into tank alley and hulldown there or go around the other way and get side shots into things sidescraping off that corner.

and my personal favourite.

Note how I only really get 1 shot into them, this is where the high alpha of the 121 works to great effect. Find a place to abuse your alpha where the enemy is going to have a difficult time retaliating. Put yourself into a spot where you are able to out trade opponents and establish dominance with 440 alpha and your fast reload.


 The 121 takes the familliar commie wedge platform and adds its own chinese flavour. With firepower rivaling tier 10 heavies this tank is a bully. Its role is to smash things into submission with your 122mm boomstick while they bounce off your turret. It maybe look like an inferior carbon copy of the Russian meds it's a different tank entirely. It fills a niche roll of a meat tenderizer, taking away chunks of the enemy's HP pool and punishing those who don't pay attention. Its gun depression is extremely limiting but that just means you have to get creative with how you position yourself. Find outcrops, tank wrecks, slight dips in the ground and such to reduce your exposure. For a tank that relies on brute force to win games it requires finesse to excel. It provides unqiue gameplay that you won't find in any other tank. So if you're bored of the same old 320 or 390 alpha meds pick up a 121, it might just surprise you.

Ps. Since I'm doing a review of a chinese medium I should get a chinese medium as a reward :winkyface:




_Luckson_br_gibpesos4T49 #211 Posted Apr 19 2017 - 12:52


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Reserved for a T49 guide 

9Spawn #212 Posted Apr 19 2017 - 13:12


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Object 430

Object 430 its a rare guest in random battles compared to his brothers T-62A and Obj.140. It's a very good flanker agile, high camouflage, hard hull and the best reload of the 3.


  • This will start from T-34 the most basic russian tank. to rapidly moving on the main line the A-43 this tank is a beauty in disguise. its 125 penetration and 115 base damage may looks weak but u will be shooting at 2.72 up to 2.61 with fast aim time enough to beat a Cromwell one on one. top speed 55 yet no ground resistence, good traverse speed and 21,62 cv/t make it good agile tank.
  • A-44 here we get a big gun, high front armor and not to forget the rear turret getting used to this tank may be difficult but when u get used its going to be the fun on tracks.
    why? well big gun, high armor and RAMMING!!! Yes ramming with low profile and 150 front defence at 59 top speed will crack even heavys. so ucan play agressive use the rear turret to ur advantage but remember the hard side its in front.
  • OBJECT 416 on the contrary its soft and is rear turret won't turn completely.
    but with the lowest profile medium tank have the best camouflage for a medium tank u can shoot unspotted and very good dpm cannon. so u can play like a TD, light or medium. u can chase and shoot on the muve but keep some distantance since u you can not turn ur turret all the way... u dont want want to get out-turn by ur enemy.
  •  the Object 430 II is a flexible multipurpose medium. sturdy armor, firepower, and good mobility, well camouflaged. its rear turret 180 degrees of traverse a bit more than 416. this tank is a good flanker and decent at ramming too You can slip between heavys and make a good chaos in good hands this tank can push and beat even his brothers tier X

Object 430

Brothers in Arms Sixth Sense Camouflage Situational Awareness
Brothers in Arms Snap Shot Camouflage Repair
Brothers in Arms Smooth Ride Camouflage Clutch Braking
Brothers in Arms Safe Storage Camouflage Repair

Gun Rammer, Improved Ventilation and Vertical Stabilizer

this set will make obj.430 very versatile multipurpose tank. obj.430 have and sturdy hull, very high camouflage and the best reload rate perfect to flank enemies. u should keep the eye en the map and seek opportunities to flank making use of ur camo, u can sidescriping with ur hard hull and turret and support heavys line but some times will be better if enemies make the mistakes on ur hull than turret, u dont have the best accurancy and and aim time out of is brothers but with this set u can still shoot on the muve yet this tank is a good brawler at short range even with heavys. note tha u will feel much more confortable when u reach the Clutch Braking for this.

u still have some ramming specs to play agressive

a real ninja tank with a warrior spirit

for those who master the

Object 430

blitz_stern #213 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 01:28


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Destination Tanks: M4 Sherman




Edited by blitz_stern, Apr 20 2017 - 01:57.

blitz_stern #214 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 02:08


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View Postdance210, on Apr 10 2017 - 17:54, said:

Ever look at the tech tree and wonder which tank to try next? Last month, we told you about some of our top destination tanks for each nation. Now, we want to know which tank you would recommend to your fellow players!


Make a guide to your favorite destination tank: what it is, why you love it, tips for going up the line and tricks to making it work.

Begins: Monday, April 10, 2017
Ends: Friday, Apr. 21, 2017 at 09:00 PT / 12:00 ET



  • Only one entry per player. If more than one entry is submitted, the first entry will be the one judged
  • Entries must be posted in this forum thread to be valid
  • Entry must be an original creation made for this contest
  • Guide should include information for a new player on how to reach and/or play your destination tank, with tips and tricks for going up the line or playing the tank
  • Guides can be written or video
  • The Destination Tank does not need to be tier 10
  • Only entries or questions about the contest are allowed; all other posts may be removed
  • Wargaming gains exclusive rights to the contest image it’s posted on the forum, as outlined in the “10. User Generated Content” section of the Terms of Service



*Number of winners may change depending on number of valid entries


Check out our "Destination Tanks" video series for inspiration!


if the written guide is on a google doc and I just post the link to the doc here is it still a valid entry?

Edited by blitz_stern, Apr 20 2017 - 02:40.

AlphaKrieger #215 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 02:09


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View Postblitz_stern, on Apr 19 2017 - 20:08, said:


if the written guide is on a google doc and I just post it here is it still a valid entry?



blitz_stern #216 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 02:14


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View PostAlphaKrieger, on Apr 20 2017 - 02:09, said:




Just making sure it's valid. Only see one other google doc entry link in this thread aside from mine.

Edited by blitz_stern, Apr 20 2017 - 02:14.

trapsuutjies #217 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 13:17


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Destination: IS-7


The only inconvenience in this line, is that you have to play two tier 5 heavies: The KV-1, and 1S, but seeing as they're both a pleasure this isn't much of a bother. As a beginner it would be easier to master the 1S first (with better mobility), however the KV-1's better armour makes up for it. Regarding the KV-1, as with every tank on this line, I recommend taking a gun rammer, toolbox, and improved ventilation.

KV-1S - use the derp gun to increase module damage on higher tier enemies and obliterate lower tiers.

KV-85 - use the low alpha, fast reload gun (100mm S-34) to improve DPM and accuracy.

IS - use the stock turret and get the engine first, also using the lower alpha gun at first. Only upgrade the turret when you can mount the top gun, as the upgraded turret is slower and has less gun depression.

IS-3 - get the turret as soon as possible, then proceed to the other component upgrades.

T-10 - take the fastest upgrade path to that monster gun.

IS-7 - you have arrived!

Though recent updates to other top tier tanks have left the IS-7's stats a bit dated, by the time you've worked your way up this tree you will have the skills and habits to play this tank effectively. Used right it is a force to be reckoned with.


Tips: Stop using auto aim as early as possible. Manual aim helps you learn where to hit a tank to do more damage, and helps you to compensate for shell velocity when shooting at moving targets.
Learn how to side scrape early on, and study your tanks to learn where their weaknesses are, and how to hide them.
Work with your team - if you find yourself alone, you've already made mistakes.
Try to use premium rounds only in emergencies - normal rounds teach better. Always have a few HE rounds for bullying lower tiers.


Regarding crew skills, your view range tends to be low so you'll have to get Situational awareness early on, in addition to the expected brothers in arms and repairs. Additional skills should increase your accuracy and mobility. The order of skills depends on whether you wish to retrain (recommended) or not (cheaper). Happy tanking!


dance210 #218 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 17:53

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View Postblitz_stern, on Apr 19 2017 - 18:08, said:


if the written guide is on a google doc and I just post the link to the doc here is it still a valid entry?


Yes, as long as we have access to view it :)

TOYBONNIE_16 #219 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 20:58


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View Postdance210, on Apr 10 2017 - 17:54, said:

Ever look at the tech tree and wonder which tank to try next? Last month, we told you about some of our top destination tanks for each nation. Now, we want to know which tank you would recommend to your fellow players!


Make a guide to your favorite destination tank: what it is, why you love it, tips for going up the line and tricks to making it work.

Begins: Monday, April 10, 2017
Ends: Friday, Apr. 21, 2017 at 09:00 PT / 12:00 ET



  • Only one entry per player. If more than one entry is submitted, the first entry will be the one judged
  • Entries must be posted in this forum thread to be valid
  • Entry must be an original creation made for this contest
  • Guide should include information for a new player on how to reach and/or play your destination tank, with tips and tricks for going up the line or playing the tank
  • Guides can be written or video
  • The Destination Tank does not need to be tier 10
  • Only entries or questions about the contest are allowed; all other posts may be removed
  • Wargaming gains exclusive rights to the contest image it’s posted on the forum, as outlined in the “10. User Generated Content” section of the Terms of Service



*Number of winners may change depending on number of valid entries


Check out our "Destination Tanks" video series for inspiration!

bueno hablemos del jpanzer E100 para mi es muy buen cazatanques ya que tiene muy buena resistencia y buena potencia de fuego

TOYBONNIE_16 #220 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 21:02


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hablemos del firefly es muy buentan que mediano y lo considero mi caballito de batalla,es muy buen tanque porque tiene pontencia de fuego,velosidad y un giro de torreta y chasis espectacular!!

ademas ganan mucho dinero y experiencia. : )

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