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IndygoEEI #221 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 21:25

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Hey Dance, I know this contest is for all NA players but what about the ones posting in different

languages?  Will they be in a separate bracket and who will judge them?



Tankbuster10000 #222 Posted Apr 20 2017 - 22:38

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My Destination Tank:

The STUG III G or its real name: THE GERMAN SNIPER RIFLE !

The STUG is still my favourite tank in the game, even though it has no turret. It was the first and only tank I have three marked so far and it is the only T5 non premium tank I have played with a 3+ skilled crew. So let´s take a closer look at the stats:

The STUG III G has 4 Crew Members: Commander; Gunner; Driver; Loader/ Radio Operator

The only interesting point is here, that the role of the Radio Operator will be transferred to the Commander on higher tiers. So don’t train radio operator skills on your loader if you want to play on higher tiers with your crew or the trained skills will be useless.

 

Firepower: The top gun is unbelievable accurate and the reload time is awesome, too. The average damage is 135 - decent, but nothing special. The 10,5cm Howitzer is fun against equal or lower tier enemies, but if you want to perform as the  best, you have to use the 7,5cm L70 gun. The biggest strength of the gun is its average penetration of  150 mm,  that even makes T7 tanks feel uncomfortable.  And if you still need more penetration, dab your #2 key for epic 194mm.

The amount of ammunition you can carry is really low: only 36 shells. There will be matches when you run out of shells.

Survivability: The Hit Points are nothing special: 350HP.  Therefore you shouldn’t go into 1vs1 with heavy tanks. Your Armor is only reliable at the front and only against stock guns or lower tiers. A weak spot is your fat lower plate, because you will quite often lose your engine if getting hit there. Nevertheless you will not often be burned to death.  (Good German Diesel!)

Maneuverability / Mobility: The traverse speed is another awesome point of this TD, because no light tank is able to flank you, unless you are tracked. While driving forward with a maximum speed up to 40km/h, the weak 10km/h reverse speed is pretty bad to flee effectively from the fight.

Concealment: The camo rating is also impressive like playing the E25`s little brother at T5. With full Camo crew, Brothers in Arms and Camo Net, I made it to 59.53% for a concealment of stationary vehicle.

Spotting: The base view range is 310 m . That’s pretty bad, but no big problem unless you are the last survivor. The base signal range is 433m. Again nothing special, but enough range to work effectively with your teammates.

Equipment:

Gun rammer - A must to increase your epic Rate of Fire

Binocs - You have poor View range, so it must be improved

Camo Net - Increases you’re Epic Camo, a must to stay hidden

Vents instead of Binocs are an option if you rely on your team 100%.

 

Our way to the STUG: T2 – T4

To get a STUG, you have to play the Panzerjäger I and the Marder II, both are well armed paper TDs. At T4 you have the choice of the “King of Derp”, the HETZER, or the Marder 38T, another open cabin paper TD with an excellent gun. I recommend playing the Hetzer to get the STUG. After the Marder 38T you have to play the STUG III B to get your T5 STUG, why you have to play much more games. Also the Hetzer is another fun TD with the 10,5cm Howitzer.

What do we get after the STUG? : T6 – T10

After playing the STUG the line leads to a real monster in World of Tanks: The Jagdpanzer E100. To get there you have to play the T6 Jagdpanzer 4, an average tank destroyer, the T7 Jagdpanther, a well-armed tank destroyer and then the choice of: A slow armored TD with a big gun, the T8 Ferdinand OR a mobile TD with a big gun, the T8 Jagdpanther II. The T9 TD, the Jagdtiger, is more like a Ferdinand. If you went that way you should have no problems, if not you will learn it quite easy. I recommend playing the Ferdinand, because it has 6 crewmembers, similar to the Jagdtiger, while the Jagdpanther 2 has only 5 crewmembers. The T10 Jagdpanzer E100 supports the same gameplay. Your monstrous gun with armor trades for bad mobility.

GAMEPLAY

You are a support sniper from the back. Your mission is to support you allies by taking out tanks they spotted. Don’t go fully yolo or brawl into enemy heavies. The first step in every game is easy. Find yourself a good bush to cover one or more sides of the map. If you have binocs, you can spot for yourself, if not , you are forced to stay always behind your teammates. Your Camo is your key to survive, if you manage to stay hidden.You can use your awesome gun to make your enemies cry. If you get spotted, move, but try to turn around because of your poor reverse speed.

CREW SKILLS

Commander                                                                                           Camo; Sixth Sense; BiA

Gunner                                                                                       Camo; Designated Target; BiA

Driver                                                                                              Camo, Clutch Braking; BiA

Loader/ Radio Operator                                                        Camo; Situational Awareness; BiA

Note: If you want to grind the line, pick SAFE STOWAGE instead of Situational Awareness

Replay Link:

http://wotreplays.co...stug_iii_ausf_g

 


Edited by Tankbuster10000, Apr 20 2017 - 22:55.


Chubbles99 #223 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 03:25

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My Destination: Tank vehicle is the widely heard of but not so common Tank Destroyer, Object 263. With a tier 10 tank like this you can not go wrong.

Firepower

There is no comparison to the sheer force this monster puts out with an average damage of 550 per shot. What happens when you combine this wit the standard AP penetration of 290mm? It creates a powerful weapon that does NOT have to use it's APCR ammunition as frequently as many shall believe. Adding in my multi-perk female crew, I have been able to reach a 6.65 rounds per minute rate of fire greatly dropping the reload down to 9.03 seconds. Factor in the 2.34 second aim time and a 0.3 dispersion at 100 meters, I can reach an average DPM (Damage Per Minute) of 3655 which means there is no tank able to survive in a minute when actively battling this beast.

Survivability/Mobility

This fantastic vehicle isn't just meant to sit still in the back like many other Tank Destroyers, though. Using the top speed of 55 km/h and a power to weight ratio of 17.34, you are able to get up front with your heavies and brawl it out using your 250mm of frontal armour.

Concealment/Spotting

Now, this is the best part in my opinion. The concealment while stationary with my set up reaches 38.06%. This with the 508 meters of view range can create a deadly combination especially when in cover.

The Path

The way to the Object 263 isn't easy. First, you must reach the SU-100 (another personal favorite). Once reaching there, you have a choice. Go for the SU-152 or for the SU-100M1. Choosing the SU-100M1 will take you down the line to the 263 with the great mobility, firepower, and sometimes very troll-like armour. Though, it is not easy to grind, it is the best feeling you will have upon reaching the tier 10.

My Setup

The setup i keep at all times is very simple. A camo net, gun rammer, and a set of binocs. My consumables are just the small repair and medical kits with a small fire extinguisher. The ammo i hold is the what i keep for Clan Wars which is quite suitable for public matches also. This includes 25 AP rounds 14 APCR rounds and 3 HE rounds. Each of these have a specific purpose in a battle. My female crew is hard to explain. They each have Sisterhood of Steel but the other perks are a complete mix since i wasn't thinking of it at the time.

How I Play

My game play is unorthodox for many to see. Usually some will sit back the whole match and others will brawl the whole time. Both ways are great as long as it is the right area and you keep your lower plate covered. How I play is just a simple mix dependent on the map. Sometimes i will snipe first and other times i will brawl first. Either way i swap between the two styles confusing the enemy sometimes. You don't have to follow the same way but it is fun.

 

Sorry for not showing any pictures i don't know how post them in the forums since i rarely use it. Thank you for reading.



Rakkedyman #224 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 03:57

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My Destination: The VK 30.01 P

 

Introduction: Diamond in the Rough

 

First, a disclaimer: I love the VK 30.01 P. I adore it. I have written poems to it.

 

That is to say, I am biased. I will sing the praises of this tank to anyone who will listen.

 

The VK 30.01 P has always been one of my favorite tanks. It’s the second tank I got a Mark of Excellence in, the second tank I got a second Mark in, and the second tank I got a Radley-Walters’ Medal in. I put my first female crew into it, although they’ve since moved on into an E 50. Aside from a brief period of separation while I was seeing the Skoda T 40, it has been a constant presence in my garage from the time I bought it, and it is still one of my very favorite tanks to play. I loved it when it was largely disliked, and I love it even more now that it has received a series of serious buffs.

 

So much for me. Why do you want to push for the VK 30.01 P? What makes this tank so fun?

 

1. It has the highest alpha among all Tier VI mediums at a massive 220 damage.

 

2. It’s tied for the second-fastest Tier VI medium tank with a 60 kph speed limit.

 

3. It has the best view range among Tier VI mediums.

 

4. It has very solid turret armor and 8 degrees of gun depression.

 

5. It leads to four Tier X tanks – the Maus, E 100, Pz. VII, and Jagdpanzer E 100.

 

6. It looks fantastic.

 

 

This tank just feels great to drive. It’s not without its flaws; the gun handling is unspectacular and its relatively poor traverse speed and terrain resistances make it slightly less mobile than its raw speed suggests. But all together, it’s a beautifully enjoyable package, and you are going to love taking 220 HP chunks out of your unsuspecting foes.

 

Part 1: It’s About the Destination: A Brief Guide to a Brief Grind

 

Spoiler

 

Part 2: Getting Up to (60 kph) Speed

 

Spoiler

 

Part 3: The Clothes Equipment Maketh the Man Tank

 

You have a fully upgraded VK 30.01 P. You are fast, you pack a massive wallop, you have pretty good turret armor and good view range. How should you kit this baby out?

 

Spoiler

 

4. Come In Like A Wrecking Ball: So how do you actually play this thing?

 

Spoiler

 

 

Postscript

 

Impressions of Armor at War: A Poem To The VK 30.01 P

 

Spoiler

 


Edited by Rakkedyman, Apr 21 2017 - 03:58.


FavreFan4ever #225 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 06:00

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Here goes nothing!

 



Appleikid_YT_3 #226 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 12:46

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Destination Tank

T25/2

 

Overview

The T25/2 is an American Tier 7 turreted tank destroyer. Underrated by many, this tank has a punchy 90 mm gun with great penetration. Before I played the T25/2, I thought the same: a mediocre tank destroyer that is nothing special. That is somewhat true but it is an all rounder: a great tank for newer players getting into tank destroyers. You experience the slower traverse speeds of the tracks and get used to slow turret traverse speeds on tank destroyers that have them. As a bonus, it is currently On Track to the T110E4. All tanks leading up to the T110E4 will be on sale and will receive XP and crew XP bonuses to ease out the grind.

 

Comparison Among Tier 7 TDs

Great Average Average Bad
Gun Depression

Alpha Damage

Aim Time DPM
Top Speed Penetration Armor Hitpoints
View Range Dispersion    
 

The Grind

        To reach the T25/2, you must go through the T1, T3 HMC, T56 GMC, M8A1, T67, and the Hellcat. I recommend going down this route and not playing the T40 and Wolverine to get to the Hellcat because this route will help you get accustomed to the playstyle by playing the M8A1 and the T67.

        It is most likely that all of us have played the T1 Cunningham and researched all the other tanks that branch out from it during the proving ground so playing the T1 won't be a problem.

        The T3 HMC and the T56 GMC are the only tank destroyers in my recommend route that does not have a turret. It is best to play these tanks in short to mid ranges as their accuracy is not very good even though their armor is somewhat thin. If playing them in close combat, you will have autoaim a target and then pull around a corner quickly to fire when enemies are reloading. You will not have time to aim as that will let the enemies reload. You may miss several shots, but this is your best bet in close range combat.

        The Tier 4 M8A1 marks the beginning of the turreted American tank destroyers. Along with the M8A1 are the T67 and the Hellcat. These tanks all play in similar ways as they are mobile, have good camo ratings, and pack decent guns. I recommend using the 57 mm M1 gun on the M8A1, 76 mm M1A1 AT gun on the T67, and the 90 mm M3 AT gun on the Hellcat. These tanks in stock are playable so the grind to top modules will not be difficult to research.

       Now that you've reached the T25/2, I recommend researching the suspension first as that is needed to mount the upgraded turret and gun. With the stock suspension, you can mount a medium caliber gun rammer and binocular telescopes. Next, research the top engine and lastly the radio. As for ammunition, I suggest a couple HE rounds and 50/50 of AP and APCR. The AP rounds have 170 mm of penetration which is enough for most Tier 7 tanks but if you have to fight a Tier 8 or 9 heavy tank then APCR will be your friend. The T25/2 boasts a whopping 258 mm of penetration on its premium rounds. There will be no problem penetrating most tanks that you can meet.

 

Crew Skills & Equipment

For most tank destroyers, I suggest going with the concealment crew skill for all your crew members. This really helps boost the American tank destroyers camo rating from Tier 2-7. After that, I'd go for repairs and then retraining for BiA.

As for equipment, I recommend a gun rammer, camo net, and binocular telescopes for American tank destroyers Tier 2-7. The camo net works very well combined with a rotational turret so that you do not have to wait 4 seconds for your camo net to activate.

 

Playstyle

American tank destroyers Tiers 2-3 should be played in short to mid ranges because of bad accuracy.

American tank destroyers Tiers 4-7 should be played in mid to long ranges. Your accuracy is not terrible, but it is also not spectacular. It's right in the middle around 0.35 at 100 meters. When playing tank destroyers, you have to be alert and pay attention to the minimap to watch out for any openings that may allow enemies to flank you. Your traverse speeds are quite slow but if they manage to flank you, autoaim on the target and turn your tracks and turret the same direction.

 

Why I Love Playing the T25/2

There is nothing bad about the T25/2. I can easily do a lot of damage and will never complain of not penetrating if I hit the enemy's weak spot because of the excellent penetration. 240 alpha damage is enough to scare your enemies when combined with a 6.5 second reload. The 258 premium penetration has to be my favorite part about the T25/2. :P

Edited by Appleikid_YT_3, Apr 21 2017 - 16:05.


ProAsianTanker #227 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 16:00

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My Destination Tank: The Skoda T 25

 

What is the Skoda T 25?

  The Skoda T 25 is a Tier 6 Czechoslovakian medium tank. It's got a top speed of 60 km/h, 10 degrees of gun depression, and a 3 round burst that will leave your enemies jealous.

  Side Note: 75% crews are best but you can get away with a 50% crew until the Skoda T 24.

 

How Do You Get to the Skoda T 25?

  Firstly, drop some free xp on the Tier 1 K-House and research the Tier 2 LT vz. 35.

  The LT vz. 35 is an average Tier 2 light tank with great penetration, aim time, and accuracy. You will not hate this tank, I promise.

  Next up is the LT vz. 38 where you can get your first chance at a 3 round autoloader. This little bugger has excellent penetration, aim time, and accuracy like its little brother. However, you now have 120 clip potential and you fire every second until you've used all 3 shots. You just have a reload for 5 seconds and you're back in action.

  After the Lt vz. 38 is the ST vz. 38. It is the first medium tank in the line and it certainly plays as one. Still having the awesome gun stats like its little bro, it's also got 10 degrees of gun depression to work ridge lines.

  Now comes the tank that you will probably hate the most in the line: the disastrous Skoda T 24. This tank has the worst DPM of any Tier 5 medium so you will not be able to handle multiple tanks on your own. You still have awesome gun stats but your aim time has increased. However, your penetration has increased which means it is among the best compared to other Tier 5 mediums.

  Congratulations! You've reached my destination tank, the lovely Skoda T 25. Now go pick up some tips, tricks, and how you can become an Ace.

 

Pros

  • Great 3 round clip with fast reload time

  • Decent DPM

  • Spectacular aim time

Cons

  • Bad traverse speed

  • Armor is flat and thin

  • Ammo rack is somewhat vulnerable

 

Playstyle

  The playstyle of tanks Tier 1-5 relies on your teammates. Go with a group of teammates and when the enemies are on reload, then you can peek out and take a quick shot. Hopefully your teammates can ricochet some shots so that once the enemy is melted through, you can do some cleanup in the frontline. Also, these tanks have 10 degrees of gun depression, so be sure to you that to your advantage where there are no corners of buildings. This way, the only hitbox your enemy has is your turret which can be difficult to hit if not at point blank.

 

How to Play the Skoda T 25

  With decent accuracy, the Skoda T 25 should be played at mid to long ranges in the early-mid stages of a battle. The traverse speed is among the worst at Tier 6 so don't try to be a light middle in the middle ridge on Prokhorovka. Still carrying the great gun depression from its predecessors, keep using this to your advantage by hiding your hull. The time between each shot is 1.33 seconds so it is rather easy to get all 3 shots off before an enemy notices you. Keep in mind that your tank does not have much armor so never force anything. You have to be on the move and look for opportunities where you can get shots off. Try not to take any hits and make positive damage trades if you end up taking a hit. Keep an eye on your health and if it dips below half, then you will need to stay back until late game.

 

The Czechoslovak tanks do not have any armor so why should I worry about hiding my hull?: To expose yourself less of a target to shoot. It is much easier to hit the whole of a tank rather than only the turret.

 

Crew Skills: As with most mediums, I recommend going after repairs as your first skill. For the second skill, I recommend going for concealment to make your view range effective. Then, retrain for BiA, repairs, and concealment. Other nice skills to acquire after the 3 I mentioned are recon, situational awareness, and safe stowage.

 

Equipment: I recommend using Improved Ventilation Class 2, Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, and Coated Optics. These are the only 3 pieces of equipment that is controversial anyways.

 

Tips and Tricks

  • With a 3 round burst, you don't have to fire as soon as your gun loads. Instead, hold your shot or fully aim it track your enemies 3 times in a row!

  • You don't have to fire all 3 shots if the situation does not allow you to. Conserve your health! Instead, fire 1 or 2 and then reload but pretend to still have 1 more shot bry rocking back and forth.

  • When using your gun depression, only your turret will be exposed. You will have perfect shots on your enemies all day while you can rock yourself back and forth to make your turret a difficult target to hit.

  • Fire even if your gun isn't fully aimed at 350 meters or closer: your shell will hit 90% of the time.

  • Avoid KV-2s, O-Is, or any derp gun in general. They will destroy you in one blow.

 

Why do I love the Skoda T 25?

  I love playing the Skoda T 25 in strongholds because it has 10 degrees of gun depression. The 3 round burst is extremely effective and in my opinion, better than a Cromwell. The only time I would prefer a Cromwell over a Skoda T 25 is when I have to rush the enemy because the Cromwell has more DPM. In random battles, I can poke about any hill I want. My favorite part is when the enemy pokes around so that I can literally keep them tracked for 20 seconds!


Good luck, have fun, and happy tanking! :)

zodman1993 #228 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 17:15

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https://docs.google....dit?usp=sharing

CaptianMob #229 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 21:39

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Hey dance210, will we know by email if we won prizes a few days from now similarly to how the scavenger hunt worked?



AlphaKrieger #230 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 22:01

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View PostCaptianMob, on Apr 21 2017 - 15:39, said:

Hey dance210, will we know by email if we won prizes a few days from now similarly to how the scavenger hunt worked?

 

I also too want to know this? If so, will it be tonight at 12:00 ET?

Thx!

 



dance210 #231 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 22:04

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View PostCaptianMob, on Apr 21 2017 - 13:39, said:

Hey dance210, will we know by email if we won prizes a few days from now similarly to how the scavenger hunt worked?

 

View PostAlphaKrieger, on Apr 21 2017 - 14:01, said:

 

I also too want to know this? If so, will it be tonight at 12:00 ET?

Thx!

 

 

Winners will be announced in this thread. I wouldn't expect them until sometime next week, as we need to read through all the entries first :)

DevilsDust #232 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 23:43

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I think i would like to try  the russian T-100LT  seems like a pretty good tank



DaDoomTurtle #233 Posted Apr 21 2017 - 23:59

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AMX ELC bis

Hey Tankers,

I’m DaDoomTurtle and I’m here to recommend the AMX ELC bis, a bantamweight French Tier V light tank, as your destination tank. In this guide, I will go over the grind to the AMX ELC bis, why the ELC is special, how to play the ELC, and a few tips on how to play the tanks following the ELC. I have yet to reach the Batignolles-Châtillon 25t, more famously (infamously?) known as the BatChat, but I’m getting there. ;) I will try my best to give you guys all the tips and tricks I can think of to reach the AMX ELC bis and what lies beyond as quickly and efficiently as possible. For those of you who are concerned about your credit budgets or those of you who want to use free XP, I have marked important notes for you on what to skimp on and what to invest in. Enjoy!

 

**Disclaimer**: I would like to let everyone know that although I cannot be considered a complete expert on the topic, I feel like I know the tank pretty well from the battles I have played in it. Also take into consideration that this is a fresh account, created earlier this year, when I wanted to get back into the game. I previously played World of Tanks in 2012 or 2013 before quitting not too long after. I did not know how much the game had improved and completely forgot about my old account (I did not use my old registration email anyways). Being the silly person I was, I did not know that I could recover my old account. Nevertheless, I got it back the first chance I was given, and the journey began all over again. Went right back through training and plopped myself into the Tier Is, grinding my way up. Part of the reason I stopped playing was because in my noob days, I was so dumb I couldn’t figure out how to research the vehicles. I kept seeing them in the armory and didn’t understand the concept of the tech tree. Silly me! XD I do however, have a Mark of Excellence on my AMX ELC bis, if that says anything. Total, I have over 2,000 battles total on my accounts, so I’m still technically a noob, but nevertheless, let’s stop talking about me and jump into this review.


 

Now, you may ask, why in the world should I try to get the AMX ELC bis? This is the point where you find out if the ELC is actually the right tank for you. Why you should play the ELC:

It’s extremely fast and mobile.

It has excellent camo values (receives light tank camo bonus).

It mounts a hard-hitting gun.

It can be a very enjoyable tank once you get the hang of it.

 

Here’s a couple risks that you must be willing to take and sacrifices that you must make:

It’s an extremely fragile tank with little armor.

It’s very lightweight and thus susceptible to ramming.

It is not a recommended beginner’s tank or tank line, due to the unique playstyles that you must adapt to and somewhat awkward handling on certain tanks.

Like many other lights, it does not have very high DPM (damage per minute).

 

In summary, it’s a very small and fast light tank that packs a whopping punch. Now, if this sounds like your style, then without further ado, let’s jump right into the content.

 

The Grind

 

Renault FT

The first tank in the French tech tree and of the ELC’s line is the Renault FT. Designed by the French during World War I, it was one of the most advanced vehicles of its time. The tank had a fully rotating turret (360 degrees of turret traverse), one of the first ever tanks to do so. Post-war, it received the designation Renault FT-17. As this is lower tier and it’s a rather relaxed atmosphere, you probably won’t be using too many “pro” tactics at a tier where most tanks have practically no armor. On the plus side, the FT does actually have decent armor for a Tier I tank, most of which is either oddly angled or concentrated on the turret. If you’re lucky, you might get a couple bounces. All I can really say is angle yourself whenever possible and pray to RNGesus, and if you want to be troll, reverse sidescrape with the thing and let your tracks absorb the damage. Once you research the autocannon (a 13.2mm Hotchkiss mle. 1930), you get the choice of either continuing the line with the FCM 36 or the Renault R35. While you’re grinding the experience for those two vehicles, I recommend you take the pains to unlock all the other vehicles on the French tech tree while you’re at it, unless you want to just free XP the stuff in the future. If you’re planning to use free XP during the grind, save it for later.

Renault R35 and FCM 36

Now, there’s two candidates for the grind through Tier II. The FCM 36 and Renault R35 are pretty similar in most aspects. Both lead to the same tank in the end, so they’re just one out of the many stepping stones up the French light tank line. The only major differences between the two are that the FCM 36 starts off with better gun handling than a R35 and requires less XP to get through the line. The FCM 36 line is the way to go for those who just want to get it over with. Now, if you’re a newcomer without too much credits and experience, or if you want to just have some fun and make a few credits on the way, I recommend you go with the Renault R35. The R35 eventually catches up with the FCM 36 in terms of gun handling, but requires for you to research more modules. What I find most important with the R35 however, is that it has 20m more view range (At low tiers, it’s important that you get the first shot in, due to the low hitpoint pool of your tank.) and the extra armor. The FCM 36 is much more vulnerable to flanking because it has 20mm of armor on the hull sides and rear, as opposed to the 40mm on the frontal hull and all-round 40mm on the turret. Meanwhile, the R35 has 40mm protection everywhere except for the rear and the driver’s hatch, where the armor is 35mm. This makes the R35 an amazing low tier brawler. Although many people recommend just flat out researching the SA38, I recommend you get the 25mm Canon Raccourci mle. 1934. Although it loses a good deal of its penetrating power quickly, meaning you have a max range of 400m, at Tier II & III, most of your engagements are well within 400m. The 25mm is faster firing, has a faster aim time, more penetration, and better accuracy. There’s no real need to elite this vehicle. It’s just one of the fun little Tier II brawlers that serve as your bridge to glory (aka AMX ELC bis). You won’t need to research the tracks on this vehicle, so just go ahead and get the 25mm and work your way to the second turret. Then, common sense tells you to research the AMX 38. A quick tip to help out my cash-strapped friends: Don’t bother getting a fresh crew for your R35 (or FCM 36 if you chose that route). Instead, sell the Renault FT and transfer the crew into your R35. A fully trained crew isn’t necessary for this tank. Meanwhile, the crew will accumulate experience which you can use when you retrain your crew for other tanks. Every percent counts if you want to bump up the “soft” stats. For those who want to spend free XP to speed up the grind, hold on to your money! I’ll let you know when you can start spending.

 

FCM 36

Renault R35

 

AMX 38

This is the part where the going gets rough. Regular Tier IIIs don’t get the best of matchmaking, often seeing Tier Vs. This is absolute torture for many players, especially with the terrible gun on the AMX 38. I’ll try to show you how to get through this mess as fast as possible. For the players out there who want to free XP their way through the line, if you want to save yourself a LOT of pain, now’s the time to do so. The sad truth is that the AMX 38 is horrible against anything besides Tier IIs and IIIs. The top gun inexplicably bad handling (accuracy, aim time, RoF, etc.) and has miserable AP penetration sitting at a mere 45mm! Imagine shooting at a Matilda, KV-1, O-I Experimental, or any other well armored vehicle with the top gun. Tier V mediums will make mincemeat out of you. I DO NOT recommend firing APCR on this thing, because it is an easy way to just bleed credits while still not penetrating many tanks. (A good rule of thumb is to ease off the APCR from Tier I-III and fire primarily AP. There are some exceptions though. It all depends on the circumstances, but for this grind, the rule applies.) Because I was cash-strapped, I forced myself to grind through everything on that tank, even eliting it in the end. For those people who want to use free XP, first mount the 25mm and jump into your first match. Generally, on your first match, you will be top tier, unless something goes horribly wrong with matchmaking. That means you must try to make the most of it, and get some good damage on the Tier IIs so you get a good chunk of experience from the daily double. THEN use your free XP and unlock the AMX 40, better known as “the DUCK.” If you’re planning to do this the hard way, then follow the same procedure as the ones who use the free XP by equipping the 25mm and grabbing the daily double in a Tier II-III match if possible. When you’ve gotten enough XP, first research and mount the ER 53 radio, which is also found on the AMX 40. Then, research your way through the guns to the AMX 40. Your stock tracks can hold the weight of all the new modules. Don’t bother wasting XP on the other modules. They’re simply not worth it. You’re still a very slow snack for higher tiers. On the bright side however, the AMX 38 has 60mm of frontal armor and 40mm of all-round protection elsewhere, which is outstanding if you can land yourself in a Tier II-III matchup. In that case, keep your front pointed towards the enemy and angle if you can. Even sidescraping is an option at this point! LOL It is imperative that you make the most of your luck however, before you head back to the Tier IV and Tier V slaughtergrounds. You’re simply too slow to get to the fight in time, so regulate yourself in these higher tier battles as a second-line support vehicle and try to track something for your teammates. If you can somehow reach a good spot in time, you can sometimes spot for your team. If you have a spare set of binoculars in your garage or can scrape together 500,000 credits to get them (definitely get them when they’re on sale at 250,000 credits; you’ll thank me later), mount one these on your tanks. It’s easily demountable and you can use it on another tank after you’ve gotten through with this one. It’ll come in handy once you get to the ELC and autoloaders. In other words, the binocs are a good investment for the future and a way in the meantime to grab a little extra XP for spotting damage. For those of you who are going to make the complete grind through this tank, I already feel your pain. I made the mistake of eliting the thing and I don’t want you guys to waste time and experience making the same errors as I did. Trust me though, the French lights will have a bright future. Up next comes a rather controversial tank….

 

 

AMX 40

Congratulations, you have reached the AMX 40, better known to many veteran WoT player as “the DUCK.” Quite marvelous curves don’t you think? Now, ladies and gentleman, you’re at the final stepping stone to the AMX ELC bis. You must first take note that the transition from Tier IVs to Tier Vs requires more time and devotion, so you must prepare yourself for that. In other words, you must settle in for a longer grind, making sure you make your stats bearable. Retrain your two crew members with credits and hire another one at 75% for the Duck. Now reset your crew skills for free on the two crewmen. Your little XP stash built up on the crewmen will give them a minor boost in the qualification percentage. If you can, mount a set of binoculars on the Duck and throw in Improved Ventilation Class I. Although you may not keep the Duck, a 5% crew skill boost makes life more bearable, if you can afford to make the purchase of course. You aren’t making too heavy of an investment though, because it’s just 50,000 credits for a set of light tank vents (Class I). If you want to use free XP, spend it on getting the new tracks so your suspension can withstand the weight of the new turret. Then research the second turret and top gun, the 75mm SA32. The ER 53 radio will carry over from the AMX 38, so if you took the time to unlock it, mount it immediately. (As a general tip for everyone, don’t always sell your modules! Before selling a vehicle, always check the modules to see if any can carry over to other vehicles. If they can, keep them. Otherwise, sell them, unless you plan to buy the tank back in the future. The same applies to ammunition.) Next, work on obtaining the engine, because the AMX 40 already has poor mobility, so upgrading your engine is a really good option. For those want to free XP their way through, you can skimp on the engine. If you’re doing the normal grind, proceed with the same research path as those using free XP. You may notice that I’m not telling you guys to skip any modules, because the AMX 40 is a rather mediocre tank in the eyes of the mast majority of WoT players, and can be frustrating to play while stock. That’s why I wanted you to research all of the modules before saving up for the ELC. Now on to the ammunition loadout. I mentioned earlier that for the lower tiers, you generally want to refrain from using APCR. Your guns in Tier I-II were more than sufficient, and there was no point during the Tier III portion of this line. At Tier IV however, you begin to face much stronger opponents, just like you did in Tier III, but this time, in your Duck, you at least stand a chance. Thus, you can make a justifiable use of premium ammunition. In the Duck’s case, it’s a 75mm OCO mle. 1926 HEAT shell with 91mm of penetration. It comes in quite handy with tanks such as the KV-1, O-I Exp., T-14, T-1 Heavy, and all other well armored tanks [*Cough, cough, MATILDA, cough, cough.* Sorry, allergies. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°;)]. Still keep in mind however, that this isn’t too strong, just a small penetration boost while retaining the same alpha damage of 110. The gun and alpha is pretty good when compared with other tanks of similar tier and role. The standard AP shell, the ODR mle. 1910 has 74mm of penetration is sufficient for its tier, so the HEAT shell should be reserved for special circumstances. If you take a closer look at the Duck’s gun stats however, you may notice that the AP shell has a velocity of 600 meters per second, meaning that when giving lead, treat this tank’s AP as a derp shell. The HEAT is even slower, at only 480 meters per second, which is agonizingly slow, so I do not recommend taking shots at long range with the premium shell. The dispersion values of 0.44m per 100m will also cause you to stay far away from the HEAT. Also, as an added note, DO NOT fire HEAT into tracks. That’s an easy way to burn credits. In my opinion, you should only carry 4 HEAT shells on the Duck at the very most. After that, it’s not very profitable nor is it practical. I recommend you carry an ample supply of HE shells in the Duck because they are cheaper than AP (I mean, it won’t save you too many credits but still good to hold on to your cash right?) and effective against many targets (if used correctly). It has the same shell velocity as the AP but only 38mm of penetration. However, this is made up for with the small 1.06m splash radius and the 175 alpha damage. Generally, I like to load my Duck with about 20 HE shells, 4 HEAT shells, and fill up the rest of the space with AP.  The gun stats are mediocre at best, with a 6 second reload, 0.44m dispersion, and 2.4 second aim time, so treat this as a miniature derp gun. Now, if you have binoculars and you can get yourself to a good spotting locations, then you will start to rake in experience and credits from spotting damage. This playstyle is effective when going against Tier VIs, but when you see Tier IIIs and IVs, play more aggressively. Still take the time to pause and spot though, because you don’t want to be rushing in blind. Because the Duck’s armor is so well angled, if you shoot it anywhere on the upper glacis or score a glancing shot on the turret, it is likely to ricochet off. Try to keep your lower plate hidden or your hull well angled, because even though the lower plate is strong, the flat portions make it the most appealing target when the enemy have a clear shot. Sidescraping works very well on this tank if you can get it into a good position. The rounded edges and sides make it very hard to get a solid shot on a sidescraping Duck. Oh, and about that mobility… the speed limit doesn’t signify jack. The only way the Duck will hit 50-60km/h is going down hill. Otherwise, forget about it. The more appropriate values would be about 15-25km/h on the rolling grounds of a field. This is due to the fact that acceleration is very slow on this tank and turning bleeds off lots of speed. If you have not built up enough speed before going up a hill, then you’re in for a long ride. If not required to turn often and allowed to accelerate however, the AMX 40 is capable of maintaining a decent 25-28km/h pace once fully upgraded. Think of all of the French tanks in this line so far as small heavies. It’ll be good training if you want to go down the lines of true heavies, like the KV line. Personally, I think the Duck is a decent tank and I keep it in the garage to play with once in awhile. The armor holds up hilariously well against Tier IIIs and many Tier IVs, and the good alpha is a nasty surprise. Long live the duck! (PRO TIP: When driving the Duck, you must greet everyone before the start of the battle by saying, “QUACK, QUACK!”;)

 

 

AMX ELC bis

Now, what we’ve all been waiting for. The tiny, the stealthy, the fast, the deadly, the AMX ELC bis. It is my favorite tank of all time, but unfortunately has been nerfed very heavily in update 9.18. The ELC is a radical leap in ideology between the slow, heavily armored French tanks, to highly mobile and lightly armored gun platforms. It may take a little time for you to adapt to this playstyle. Think of it as a fast, lightweight TD with very little protection. Although this is optional, for those who want to use free XP, spend it on getting the 75mm SA44. It is a significant improvement over the stock gun and in the new update, the ELC received fully rotating turrets for the 75mm guns. Afterwards, it’s your call on whether to research the second engine or the 90mm D. 915. At first, the AMX ELC bis has a good power to weight ratio, but when you get the second engine, the power to weight ratio skyrocketed. With a whopping 37hp/ton ratio, the ELC could accelerate to 65km/hr in mere seconds. This is crucial because the ELC does not have much health nor armor, relying on its excellent camo, small profile, and excellent mobility to get out of trouble. Keep in mind however that this is pre-nerf. I will go over the post-nerf stats after giving a review on it during it’s “full glory.” Originally, the AMX ELC bis had a insane 90mm D. 915 which could penetrate 170mm of armor with standard AP and 248 with APCR, dealing a whopping 240 alpha per shot! This light was fast, it was stealthy, and it packed a punch. It was the premier scout and tank destroyer hybrid. However, the aim time is extremely long on this little French bugger, clocking in at about 3 seconds with a stock crew. The dispersion rate of 0.36m per 100m is amazing for its tier, except for the fact reticle bloom is a huge issue on this tank, causing RNG to strike you down over and over again. A tip for those using the 90mm: If possible, always try to aim in all the way. Sometimes however, you will have to risk it, but aim in most of the way at the very least. After you get the feel for the ELC, you’ll get a sort of gut instinct on when to shoot and when not to. Boy did the 90mm give Tier VIIIs nightmares in 9.17. You say 170mm isn’t enough mate? Well, how about 248mm? Those were the glory days. Now, in 9.18, the 90mm has 120mm of penetration with standard AP rounds, and 150mm of penetration with APCR rounds. This is a drastic reduction in pen but it was to compensate for the removal of scout matchmaking, in which the AMX ELC bis was matched up as a Tier VI tank, meaning that it saw +3/-1 matchmaking. The power to weight ratio has now been dropped to about 26.5 hp/ton, 10.5 horsepower less per ton! Nevertheless, it is still useable and the ELC will get you wherever you need. The top speed has also been nerfed down to 60km/hr, so even though the ELC will be nowhere near as mobile as it used to be, it still can do its job. The 90mm with the 240 alpha will still give Tier VIIs nightmares if it penetrates. The penetration reduction just means you must learn to be more careful when shooting, not just haphazardly lining up a shot and penning a heavy like you used to be able to do. It’ll help you to quickly learn the weakspots of many tanks. I personally started off with a stock crew, hired just for the ELC, and worked my way up from there. It was not too bad of an experience, except with the stock tank (I was broke and didn’t have the necessary free XP). I quickly threw Improved Ventilation Class I on there, an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, and Coated Optics. Now, here’s my logic behind each: The vents would boost everything overall, which would be excellent. Now I get to shoot faster, aim faster, drive better, and improve my vision. The vision part is essential because the AMX ELC bis has amazing camo, so combine that with good spotting and you will generally see the enemy first, unless they are camping really hard in a bush. The Enhanced Gun Laying Drive helps reduce the long aim time, allowing me to not waste my shots and sit there for 12 seconds waiting to reload (now it has been bumped up to 14 seconds with Patch 9.18). The final, Coated Optics, added no extra weight, gave me a 10% vision boost at all times, allowing me to control the engagements my knowing where the enemy are. Now, although I know many will go with Binocular Telescopes, realize the 90mm has a 30 degree shooting arc, 15 degrees to the left, 15 degrees to the right. Exiting this little arc will cause you to lose the 25% boost. Now, if you’re driving along a ridgeline, dodging all sorts of enemy fire, you can’t sit there and wait 3 seconds for binocs to activate. You would be dead by then. It all depends on your playstyle: are you a passive scout, or are you an aggressive one? I myself am a combination of both. I prefer to start the game conservatively, setting up to spot and picking off targets with the excellent gun, then rushing in mid-game to surprise or flank enemies in order to assist my allies. I know all of this seems a little messy so I’ll break it down for you.

  • The 90mm gun has an AP shell with 120mm of penetration with a good shell velocity of 930m/s and an APCR with 150mm of penetration with a velocity of 1,163m/s. Even with the nerfs, you can cause serious damage to tanks Tier III-VII, but veterans have learned to be a little more careful with what they’re.
  • The aim time is long and reticle bloom is bad on the 90mm, so make sure to aim in fully when possible.
  • When playing the 75mm, you have better aim time and a fully traversing turret. Use this to your advantage and take more aggressive positions where you normally can’t go.
  • You are extremely mobile, with a 26.5hp/t ratio and a 60km/hr speed limit. It is crucial to get into a good position early on.
  • The ELC has a 21% camo rating and 360m of view range, more than sufficient for spotting the opponents early on. Keep in mind the ELC also has a very low profile, so use this to your advantage.
  • The recommended equipment for the AMX ELC bis is Enhanced Gun Laying Drive/Vertical Stabilizer Mk. I, a Medium Caliber Gun Rammer/Improved Ventilation Class I, and Coated Optics/Binocular Telescopes. Take vents over rammer if you want to have better view range and also boost most of the stats overall. Take rammer if you want to a bit off of your long reload time. Gun laying drive or the newly available vertical stabilizer is crucial if you want to get a shot in on your target in time. They will be extremely helpful when firing on the move or after moving. With the vertical stabilizer available now, I recommend you mount that if you plan to be moving often (which you should). Gun laying drive helps out when you’re in good sniping positions. Take optics over bincos if you plan to be peeking ridgelines and scurrying around. Take the binocs if you want to serve as a passive scout, setting up somewhere and spotting.
  • For your crew, I recommend training Concealment and Sixth Sense immediately to capitalize on the excellent camo while stationary and on the move. Then, I recommend you get Situational Awareness for the Commander and train either Clutch Braking or Off-Road Driving for the Driver. Afterwards, it’s your choice. Brothers in Arms would be a nice addition and Recon can be trained for extra view range if you want to utilize vision control tactics.

 

  • As for ammunition loadout, I stick with my pre-nerf loadout of 30 AP shells and 6 APCR shells. First, a personal story:

Back when the AMX ELC bis faced opponents from Tier V-VIII, the 170mm wasn’t always sufficient for cracking open the tougher nuts. Sometimes, flanking is not an option and you have to take the enemy on frontally. Sure, if you were careful, the standard AP shells will generally pen, but there were always moments where you doubt the shot will go through, and also moments where the shots should go through, with RNG denies it from doing so. Regardless, the reload is often too long, so in my entire history of playing the AMX ELC bis, I have only double-tapped on that two-key twice for APCR: Once when taking on a hull-down T29, and twice when I had set up an ambush for an Object 252U Defender. You guys may think, the T29 has insane turret armor and a nearly impenetrable mantlet, so what the heck were you doing? Well, there are moments like those in the ELC where you’ll have to be patient and not reveal your position by haphazardly firing off a shot that is sure to hit, but not sure to penetrate. I waited till the T29 had its turret side towards me, although at an angle, and decided that it was the best possible opportunity to take a shot. I shot twice, with the first one bouncing off (it rotated its turret), but the second one was a solid hit though the thick angled turret side-armor of the T29 American, a nasty surprise for whoever was playing it. It caused them to panic and leave their strong hull-down position, resulting in an easy kill. In the other scenario on El Halluf, my team was completely shredded by the enemy’s heavies. It was soon down to me and two other lights, a 59-16 and a Chaffee. The Chinese light had trouble penning the heavies, but by firing APCR, whittled them down a little before being destroyed. The Chaffee also made heroic efforts, and in conjuction, our little trio shut down a good number of the heavies before I was the only one left. As for me, I was playing extremely carefully, and was receiving criticism in chat for “not contributing.” In fact, I had a good damage total of over 1,200 at that point. It was just me vs. a Object 252U Defender. Knowing that the Defender was had a little less that 70 hitpoints, I knew I just needed one shot. The end would end within a few minutes and I knew that the Defender would take care not to get spotted. Thus, I set up an ambush. I knew from the last sighting that he was heading in my general direction. I chose to fight it head-on, at first using standard AP, but after a moment's hesitation and consideration, I decided I had enough time and would be safer loading APCR. A tense minute passed, me pre-aiming towards the left of the little alcove I was sitting in, hoping I had guessed the direction of his attack correctly (I don’t use XVM, but I guessed that this player was probably nervous and took a chance, hoping they were not completely thinking it through and preparing to surprise me from another side.). I sat there, eyes glued to the screen. All of the sudden, I hear two beeps and a Defender shows right up, cruising by my little alcove. Quickly, I adjusted my aim, and with a slight hesitation to let my shot aim in, I fired as the Object 252U turned the turret. It hit right behind the pike nose, where the front hull and side hull mingled with the tracks, ending the Defender’s match in a blazing flames. Those are my personal stories about the 90mm APCR round of the ELC.

  • The 248mm of APCR pen was absolutely amazing on the old ELC. However times have changed, and the new shell of the 90mm can only be considered on par with those of the medium tanks of Tier V in terms of penetration. However, the 240 alpha is more than sufficient, and is bound to hurt anything it hits. Now you are presented with the problem of dealing with Tier VIIs with only average penetration. The solutions are to either shoot APCR or try to hit weakspots. Loading APCR will take a good 14 seconds in 9.18, so you have to plan ahead. The 150mm on the current APCR shell is still 20mm worse than the 170mm on the old standard AP shell, but nevertheless will do the job fine and dandy. If you find yourself facing higher tiers and not being able to penetrate their armor, carry 8 APCR shells. For me however, I set the limit at 6. As you get better, you’ll rely less on APCR and more on hitting weakspots. Eventually, you’ll get to the point where you barely fire APCR at all. I applaud those who have not fired any APCR rounds or have only fired them twice in their entire career in the AMX ELC bis in WoT.

 

 

 

 

 

How to Play

When you start off the game, your primary job is to spot. Thus, you should peek ridgelines or set up in a bush (near the frontlines of course) when on maps with open ground. Don’t fire unless it is absolutely worth it. You should not reveal your position early just to get damage. For city maps, try to find the largest open spaces possible, and then spot for that general area, firing and ducking into fire once you reveal the enemy. Let your team take care of everything after that, unless you don’t have backup. In that case, try to keep the enemy occupied safely, meaning to not trade hitpoints. When firing, the main playstyle for this tank is shoot and scoot. The ELC can be turned into an excellent TD when used correctly, but because of the low hitpoints, keep swapping positions to keep your identity hidden. However, if you are in a good bush and your opponents are a fair distance away, you can generally keep firing without danger. It’s okay if they’re inside your draw circle a bit, but don’t let them go halfway in. After you spend the beginning of the game getting spots and middle of the game shooting, if you find the opportunity (meaning the opponents are starting to weaken), go ahead and make some aggressive plays. If you can be sure that an enemy vehicle has been isolated and has been pinned down by a friendly, flank it! Mid to late game is the time for these plays. If you are playing the 90mm at short range, keep circling the opponent until you reload. If not possible, run and come back when ready, but be sure the opponent isn’t ready and waiting. Generally, you want to autoaim and let it shrink just for a moment before firing. When you are ready to fire, brake hard and let autoaim swing your gun onto the target, and depending on the range, either hesitate for a tiny bit and shoot, or go right for the money. Once you get use to the ELC, you’ll figure out it’s amazing at conducting drive-bys. If you are going against a tall tank with bad gun depression, feel free to side hug! Keep up with the opponent’s turns and movements, stay right on its side! When you’re ready, pull back and fire! Careful not to get shoved into anything and get yourself pinned down! The ELC can’t take much punishment. In summary, spot early game, move back and set up for mid-game to provide fire support, and push in aggressively if opportunities are given. Try to conserve your hitpoints for making the mid-late game plays. DON’T trade hitpoints unless absolutely necessary. Doing all of the aforementioned things helped me get my first Mark of Excellence on my AMX ELC bis. A couple good maps for this tank are Prokhorovka/Fiery Salient, Steppes, Mines, and Sand River. These maps all are open with good cover, excellent for your ELC. In open ground without bushes, your reign supreme with your good view range and excellent camo, allowing you to use vision control tactics to deal free damage to your enemies. One of the absolute best things you can do in the ELC is hiding in folds in the map terrain. A good example of this is on Sand River, where I use the dunes as an ambush/spotting site. I usually spot the enemy first, tear off a good chunk of their health, and retreat behind one of the small ridges in the dunes. In most tanks, you don't have the gun depression and are too big to do this. The ELC can sit safely on the ridge, offering a small target while generating artificial gun depression. If trouble is imminent, use your speed to your power and hide. The ELC specializes in getting off a shot and then rocketing off with its ridiculous acceleration. The rest unfortunately, will be up to you guys to figure out. After you play a fair amount of games in the ELC, you'll begin to understand the tank. It may be hard at first, because you have to adjust to the lack of a fully traversing turret, but if you can grasp the ELC's playstyle, you'll find it very enjoyable and rewarding. When playing the little bugger and making some aggressive plays, you may feel like a daredevil. The fast-paced action of those stunts is an extremely exhilarating experience, one that I think all players should try. The 90mm gives you the satisfaction of scoring big hits on your opponents and knowing that they are utterly confused about what the heck just hit them. What makes me even happier is hearing the French crew (I set my crew voice to national language, and I've learned to understand the crews of most nations, although some more fluently than others.). A loud "Cible détruite!" or "Ils sont salement touchés!" is music to my ears. :P I find it amusing when the Frenchman gets excited and just gives this drawn out shout, which I be very happy if anyone on the forum can interpret for me. Otherwise, I know my Frenchies well. ;) The ELC is a very fun vehicle, and I certainly shall keep it forever. The little French bugger has earned itself a permanent residence in my garage, my little gem in my sea of tanks. Now onwards to the very first autoloader!

 

AMX 12t

The AMX 12t is the first autoloader on this tank line. The 12 ton is a very good support vehicle, sitting back just behind the frontlines and dumping your clip into unsuspecting vehicles. It starts off with a 4-clip (originally 6-clip) autoloading 75mm SA49 with 108mm of penetration, which is sufficient for dealing with most tanks (although you have to take extreme care to hit weakspots for your more heavily armored foes. Now, I think this line doesn’t really call for the use of free XP, but it can be used in conjunction with normal XP to research modules. The AMX 12t starts off with lackluster speed and mobility when compared to the AMX ELC bis, so the engine is one of the two things you should research first. The other is the SA50 75mm autoloader. This will give you a good penetration and accuracy boost, as well as much better shell velocity. After that, you can start working on the radio and tracks.

Like its younger cousin the ELC, the AMX 12t has excellent camo, but not as good as its predecessor. It can still perform the role of a fast scout well however, but you must be careful with the increase in the number of derp guns. High explosives well shred through your thin armor, and you cannot afford to trade hitpoints. I recommend you equip this tank with Improved Ventilation Class I, Vertical Stabilizer (This was made newly available in patch 9.18, but before, I had an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive.), Binocular Telescopes. Most lights received on-the-move dispersion buffs and aim time decreases, and the AMX 12t was no exception. Although its accuracy was nerfed from 0.35m per 100m to 0.38m per 100m, the faster aim time in conjunction with equipment certainly helps. The tank used to be horrible at firing on the move, but now, on-the-move accuracy will be much more bearable. The binocs will be an excellent boost to your view range, and with my 105% crew and binocs, my view range is maxed out (reaches draw circle). Play this tank as more of a passive scout than an aggressive one. The original 6-clip was amazing and you could afford to waste a shot or two if you rushed up, but now, the 4-clip forces you to make sure every shot counts. Generally, I load one clip of APCR and the rest AP. Right before the Patch 9.18 however, I started loading two clips of APCR just in case, due to the number of Tier IXs I had been facing. That thankfully has been changed by the removal of scout MM and the new MM system. I think that only one clip of APCR is necessary for this tank. As for how to play this tank, early game, you should move up near the front to spot for your team. Find a good bush and set up your binocs there. I have ALWAYS been able to outspot my opponents if I am sitting in a bush with binocs on mostly open ground. Save your shots until you are sure you have spotted as many as you can before dumping 135 alpha shots into them, and falling back into cover. You don’t have to dump the entire clip in one setting, and nor do you have to fire every single shot! I however, prefer to always have a full clip. In many cases, I fall back and press C to load up my entire clip after firing a shot or two. I ONLY do this when the battle is IDLE and when I am in relative safety. Never leave yourself open to attack when reloading. In other words, reload sparingly when possible, and make every shot count. Although you may already know this, ALWAYS make a mental plan of your escape route when you drive the AMX ELC bis or the AMX 12t. Leave avenues open so that you can retreat and reload before joining the fray again. Following this advice will serve you well.

As for crew skills, I recommend you train the following skills:

  • Concealment to capitalize on the good camo and improve your ability to control the distance of engagement.

  • Sixth Sense so that you know when the time has come to hightail it out of there.

  • Situational Awareness and Recon to extend your view range even further.

  • Brothers in Arms for a 10% overall boost to your crew qualifications and skills.

Afterwards, the rest is yours. In my opinion, a 75% crew is sufficient for the AMX 12t. I have done it for both the 12 ton and ELC, and although there are noticeable decreases in performance, vents and the equipment mitigate them. Oh, and as a final note: Don’t try to work the fold of the terrain like in the ELC. Your profile is now much taller and you represent a larger target. If you want to sit on the ridgeline and shoot, you’re practically holding a sign that says, “SHOOT ME!” You have less camo, 4 degrees of gun depression, and a larger, taller profile. That’s a perfect recipe for disaster. However, Wargaming has been generous enough to buff the gun depression for the AMX 12t up to 6 degrees. Elevation however remains the same old 12 degrees. As you can see, the AMX 12t is very picky about what position it is in, much like how the ELC was, except this time, you don’t have to turn the hull if you want to use the tank’s top gun. Still remember the lovely final days of 9.17.1, both for the high damage inflicted on the upper tiers and for the absolute nightmarish matchmaking on certain days.


Well, that’s all for now tankers! Thank you for reading my first guide on the WoT North American Forum. Good luck, and I’ll see you on the battlefield!


Edited by DaDoomTurtle, Apr 22 2017 - 03:48.


histotoxic #234 Posted Apr 22 2017 - 03:51

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Personally? Object 430 and Object 263 (I'm weird)

Suichimo #235 Posted Apr 22 2017 - 10:34

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Well... [edited]. Here I thought I had a couple more days. I was gonna do one for the UE 57.

Thunder06 #236 Posted Apr 23 2017 - 02:22

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My destination tank is the Sheridan.

 

Yes that ancient cavalry/scout vehicle transferred from Vietnam to Germany to make my life with the 11th Armored Cavalry Regiment (in 1976) as challenging as possible.  It was the first vehicle I fired as a Cavalry Platoon Leader, and the round looked like a mortar: slow, slow, slow, but when it finally hit that 152 HEAT MP would light up the night.

 

I'm sure WOT has improved it's parameters and I won't be spending nearly as much time in the motorpool trying to keep it running and more importantly shooting.

 

Too bad you don't have the missile.  It was devastating.

 

Thanks

 

Thunder_6



Volkscom #237 Posted Apr 23 2017 - 06:40

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DaDoomTurtle #238 Posted Apr 23 2017 - 16:10

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View Postdance210, on Apr 21 2017 - 22:04, said:

 

 

Winners will be announced in this thread. I wouldn't expect them until sometime next week, as we need to read through all the entries first :)

 

Hey dance210, I forgot to warn you beforehand, but I edited some stuff on my guide on April 21st, so does that disqualify me from the competition? :( I hope not, because I put a lot of effort into that post in honor of my AMX ELC bis. For some reason, when posted my autosaved copy, some stuff got messed up (I typed it up somewhere else just in case autosave failed) and my latest changes weren't taken into account. The images also got screwed up, but I went back and added them in, only to find out the resizing failed, so I do apologize for those huge blown up pics. I posted the original copy sometime after 6:00 PM Eastern Time. Sorry to bother, and please respond if you can! Thank you so much! :)



thandiflight #239 Posted Apr 24 2017 - 04:43

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I don't have one because Wargaming f*cked up the tier X lights. I have everything else. GG.

Syntasia #240 Posted Apr 24 2017 - 08:55

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Centurion MK 1. When I first started this game, the only tank I visually liked was the Ausf D with a short barrel. I've reached it and frankly it's been a massive struggle to get used to the game so far, but I decided to take on SPG while I learn the other tank lines too (which is now my highest tier). Some time during this I decided to look for any other tanks I found appealing, and so far Centurion has been the only other tank I can find.




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