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Is it worth it?


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CedricMacLaren #21 Posted May 20 2017 - 00:36

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It was a pretty good way to kill time. But Groza is certainly right about reliability. Walking 15 miles back home is certainly no fun, and I had to do that often. As for Chilton, YouTube is better these days. Pretty much anything one needs to know how to do these days, someone else has already had to figure out how to do it, and have been kind enough to upload a video of them doing it. 



tod914 #22 Posted May 20 2017 - 01:49

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View PostHOTA_CHATON, on May 18 2017 - 21:30, said:

 

Run, don't walk away from that deal.

 

That's the best advice.  Sounds like the repair costs exceed the vehicles value.  Also get familiar with Kelly's Blue book, etc., so your not over paying.  Good luck in your search and keep us posted.

 

Regarding what state I'm in.  NJ.  If you look on the left side of craigslist, you can put in a min and max amount for vehicles.  So $1 min  $4000 max.  Select private parties as well.  Avoid dealers.  For the most part, a lot of the inexpensive cars they have are ones that couldn't sell privately.  Sock away a few bucks for maintenance and future repairs.

 

While your inspecting a vehicle from a private party, ask for service records.  If they don't have record of it, assume the work was not done.  Things such as timing chains/belts, etc.. 


Edited by tod914, May 20 2017 - 01:52.


Klaatu_Nicto #23 Posted May 20 2017 - 02:58

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View PostWeslinator, on May 18 2017 - 16:57, said:

 It is my first vehicle. I want to work on trucks, but don't know much about them but my Uncle does and I want to learn how to.

 Haven't seen it, but last time I saw, it wasn't (Wasn't really looking for it). So no. Our vehicles around here don't get rusty, we don't use salt on our roads when it is icy.

 

 

The Ford Falcon Ranchero I had when I first started working at Seattle International Raceway (now call Pacific Raceway) in 1974 would disagree with your commnent.

LpBronco #24 Posted May 20 2017 - 03:14

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Bottom line - get the truck for 850 and put the rest of the four into restoring as much as you can. You'll end up with something you enjoy and you'll know exactly how dependable it will be.

Weslinator #25 Posted May 23 2017 - 03:23

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Block Quote

 

That's the best advice.  Sounds like the repair costs exceed the vehicles value.  Also get familiar with Kelly's Blue book, etc., so your not over paying.  Good luck in your search and keep us posted.

 

Regarding what state I'm in.  NJ.  If you look on the left side of craigslist, you can put in a min and max amount for vehicles.  So $1 min  $4000 max.  Select private parties as well.  Avoid dealers.  For the most part, a lot of the inexpensive cars they have are ones that couldn't sell privately.  Sock away a few bucks for maintenance and future repairs.

 

While your inspecting a vehicle from a private party, ask for service records.  If they don't have record of it, assume the work was not done.  Things such as timing chains/belts, etc.. 

 I'm not sure, but I am looking at a 99 GMC Sierra tomorrow. It has 177k miles, but the Tranny has been redone and the 4X4 transfer case has been too. He has the papers for them. So I will see how that turns out. Still thinking bout the F150 though.

Block Quote

 Bottom line - get the truck for 850 and put the rest of the four into restoring as much as you can. You'll end up with something you enjoy and you'll know exactly how dependable it will be. 

 They are offering it for 850

 

 



LpBronco #26 Posted May 23 2017 - 22:31

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For the record I'm driving a 1985 F150 step side that I've turned down $4500, so there are people out there who appreciate the older trucks and the Blue Book value isn't the only criteria for evaluating what a vehicle may be worth. 

Weslinator #27 Posted May 23 2017 - 23:45

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How long have you had it for?

tod914 #28 Posted May 24 2017 - 18:28

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View PostLpBronco, on May 23 2017 - 16:31, said:

For the record I'm driving a 1985 F150 step side that I've turned down $4500, so there are people out there who appreciate the older trucks and the Blue Book value isn't the only criteria for evaluating what a vehicle may be worth. 

 

That's contingent on condition.  Pristine older vehicles are always worth more than Bluebook.  Hagerty shows some current price trends.  Not sure if trucks would be listed.  Keep in mind it doesn't account for unreported private sales.  But generally, gives you a better idea on the vehicles worth.

Weslinator #29 Posted May 25 2017 - 00:54

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I am not going for that F150 anymore. It's sad, but I guess that is not the right thing for me...

LpBronco #30 Posted May 25 2017 - 01:01

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View PostWeslinator, on May 23 2017 - 17:45, said:

How long have you had it for?

 

I bought it from a local racing legend who had bought it new and I've had it for 9 years now. 

Weslinator #31 Posted May 27 2017 - 04:57

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 I bought it from a local racing legend who had bought it new and I've had it for 9 years now.  

 Cool. I settled on a 1997 F150, single cab, 4X4, black, manual. Nice truck

 



120mm_he #32 Posted May 27 2017 - 05:30

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The f150 has always been a solid if boring truck. Same with the ranger series and I love my v6 ranger since its small enough to get around on the quad trails we have around these parts. Bit scuffed and dented from some of the really narrow bits but who cares about that girly cosmetic stuff when you have a deer or load of wood to haul back.

Weslinator #33 Posted May 27 2017 - 20:58

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That is the truck that I bought, my profile pic

LpBronco #34 Posted May 27 2017 - 21:29

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View PostWeslinator, on May 27 2017 - 14:58, said:

That is the truck that I bought, my profile pic

 

Nice!!!

Klaatu_Nicto #35 Posted May 27 2017 - 22:02

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A Great Time to Buy a Used Car . . . But Not Because They’re Cheap

 

With all the complex, fragile, non-serviceable and hugely-expensive-to-replace-when-it-fails Stuff they are grafting onto cars to make them Uncle Friendly, they become not-worth-fixing long before the cars themselves have reached their liver-spotted years. The truth is that probably every car made since about 2015 is a Latter Day Throw-Away.

 

https://ericpetersautos.com/2017/05/19/great-time-buy-used-car-not-theyre-cheap/



Ikanator #36 Posted May 27 2017 - 23:43

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My two cents:

 

If you go to buy a brand new vehicle, then unless you have the cash on hand to buy it outright you're going to have to get a loan to cover it. Congratulations, you're "upside down" in terms of the money you have to pay out for it compared with the vehicle's value from day one. In addition you're going to have to get insurance coverage for the thing including comprehensive which can be a pricey expenditure in its' own right. However, unless you got a total lemon of a vehicle maintenance costs should be relatively low.

 

If you get an old beater of a vehicle then you might be able to buy it outright, no bank financing and no "interest" to deal with. Granted that maintenance costs could be relatively high compared to a new vehicle, but depending on what is going on you might be able to schedule/stretch out the various different items to get worked on such that you can budget for it easier. Also, if you can do a lot of the work yourself you can save quite a bit of money [though at times the frustrations that arise might have you questioning if it was worth it :)].

 

Given that insurance premiums are usually based on the book value of the vehicle, you can end up saving quite a bit of money on insurance costs. Also, if the book value of the vehicle is low enough it may make sense to simply punt comprehensive coverage and go for liability coverage alone. My current vehicle is a 1994 Ford Explorer Limited that when it was originally bought went for $30,000. Current book value is somewhere around $1,300 and I paid $1,000 for it. So given that comprehensive insurance would have a deductible that would be about half the value of the vehicle I'm going without it.

 

The Explorer has roughly 174,000 miles on it and had been sitting for an extended period of time. Granted that it has issues which are taking time to shake out, diagnose and deal with and by the time all is said and done I could potentially have to shell out about another grand or so to repair stuff. But when all is finally taken care of I'll have a reasonably reliable vehicle that I can run economically for years. Given that I have the tools and have had some training I can do a lot of the work myself.

 

Last but not least, older vehicles do not have air bags. Contrary to what the safety Nazis might have you believe, this can be a good thing. Let's say you get into a semi-serious accident where you are not injured but the vehicle is damaged. On a newer vehicle the air bags will have deployed. I understand that getting them taken care of will be about a $1,500 expense. On an older vehicle, no air bag to deploy, the vehicle may still be driveable after relatively minor work.  The vehicle may look like sh*t afterwards, but if it runs that's a minor consideration.

 

Case in point, happened this last January and scared the sh*t out of me. I was driving another old beater at about 50 mph on Interstate 90 in Spokane when I hit a patch of black ice and lost it. The vehicle spun around, ended up facing the wrong way, hit the ditch and rolled 360 (side, top, side, back on to its wheels). Fortunately I was not hurt and no other vehicle was involved. The ditch was full of snow and actual damage to the vehicle was minimal. You couldn't look at the thing and tell that it had rolled like that. Ended up paying $300 for a tow, another $125 for a new tire and I had a fully functional vehicle again. I also got hit with a traffic ticket that I was able to make go away. :) But if the vehicle had been equipped with air bags they would have deployed and I could not have covered the cost of getting them taken care of.

 

To sum it all up, my advice would be to figure out how much you would like to spend each month on a "vehicle payment" and get yourself a beater you can afford and do work on. Then set that amount of money aside each month and don't touch it for anything other than vehicle related expenses. If things go reasonably well there will be months at a time when you don't need to touch your "payment". Just keep it set aside and let it accumulate. Through time you should end up building up enough money that you can handle more expensive repairs when they arise. Ideally you will eventually get enough set aside that you will have yourself covered for "comprehensive insurance". 



Klaatu_Nicto #37 Posted May 28 2017 - 00:17

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In January 2004 I woke up one morning to find several inches of snow on the ground and more to come. After my previous experience driving my Camaro SS  to and from my business in the snow, a twenty minute drive each way, I decided I didn't want to do that again so I drove for a couple of a minutes to a used car dealer and bought a 2000 Daewoo Nibru.  These were cheap cars brand new and it had 125,000 miles on it when i got, now up to 224,000 miles, but it's been the most reliable and least costly car car I've ever owned.  A few oils changes each year, a set of tires and a new alternator - that's all the money I've spent on it since buying it.

Ikanator #38 Posted May 28 2017 - 01:27

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While a lot of people curse the newer computer controlled engines that replaced the old fashioned one starting in the 90's or so, the fact is that a lot of high mileage vehicles were able to get that way because of such controls.

 

One thing I forgot to mention in my previous post. If you are serious about working on your vehicle yourself you want to check out this web site:

 

http://www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_select_oem.asp?Style=helm

 

They have the factory repair manuals available for sale for just about any make and model of vehicle you can think of. Granted that the manuals are not cheap, you may end up shelling out around $125 or so for one. But they contain all the information that the dealership techs need to have available to them when they work on a vehicle.






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