The purpose of this guide is to help players reach their goals in the manner best suited to them, be it fastest or completionist. To this end, each section will have specific information
pertaining to each of these categories.
If there is something in the guide you don't like, disagree with, or have some neat input on, please leave a post or send me a PM. I'm always glad to get input from others!
Table of contents
I. Research
II. Tactics - MS-1 through KV-1 finished
III. Frequently Asked Questions - To be included.
IV. Russian Tree Update Information - To be included.
(Yes, sorry, I know it's pretty incomplete)
I. Research
Overview
The research portion of this guide is divided up into individual tank sections, each of which contain the following information:
Credit and experience requirements for the several types of progression covered, including: speed grind and elite grind.
Credit and experience totals to reach each specific vehicle depending on progression type.
Reasoning behind choices listed.
Tips for grinding.
Visual progression guide.
Progession Types
Speed
This research path emphasizes making your tanks effective as quickly as possible, and may at times make compromises to this end that will temporarily limit your capacity in a given
tank, such as skipping a top weapon in order to parallel grind it once the next tier tank is researched.
I do not recommend speed grinding unless you are a fairly experienced player with solid credit producing tanks to back up your grind. (Premium doesn't hurt either.)
Elite
This research path summarizes the experience necessary to elite a given tank for you completionists. I also provide total credit cost for the "top" modules.
NOTE: For all progression types -
Experience totals include the experience cost of the next tank.
Credit Totals do not include the credit cost of the next tank.
Visual Guide
In WoT multiple tanks often use the same component. This allows for parallel grinding, or grinding two tanks at the same time that use the same modules to acquire those
modules faster than could be achieved by either alone.
To detail when this is possible, I have included research maps for each tank, that detail when a module is used by another tank.
NOTE: Module sharing with premium tanks is not included here, nor is information provided on modules that come stock on a tank.
MS-1
Spoiler
Research costs for this tank are extremely low. Most players will already have played through the MS-1 by the time they find this guide, and those few who have not should be able
to move through it within two or three battles.
Speed Grind
Spoiler
There is no real reason to spend any more time in the MS-1 than necessary. Even buying modules is counterproductive as the cost of the researched modules is nearly as great as
the purchase price of the next tank (the T-26 at 3,700 credits).
Experience Total: 210
Tank Cost: 0
Credit Total: 2,200
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 865
Tank Cost: 0
Elite Module Credit Total: 3,070
T-26
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Again, I'm choosing to take a very bare-bones approach to research. The experience cost to reach the next tier is so low that it is very hard to recommend sticking around longer
than is absolutely necessary.
Additionally, very few (read: one) of the T-26's modules are used by tanks later in the heavy tree.
Experience Total: 1,525
Tank Cost: 3,700
Credit Total: 2,530
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 2,540
Tank Cost: 3,700
Elite Module Credit Total: 13,260
T-46
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
This speed route leaves the T-46 fairly anemic, but it does pack a respectable punch against tanks it manages to penetrate. I strongly recommend you research the radio "10R" on
either this tank or the T-28, as it is widely used in the heavy tree.
Experience Total: 4,340
Tank Cost: 38,500
Credit Total: 12,110
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 14,400
Tank Cost: 38,500
Elite Module Credit Total: 38,040
I consider the 45mm VT-42 to be the "elite" weapon.
T-28
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Despite costing more in experience and credits, I decided to show the 85mm F-30 route as the main path because of the huge preference for this weapon shown by T-28 drivers.
This is the first tank that you will be spending some real time in, and having a heavy hitting weapon is a huge plus. It is also useable on the KV-1, unlike the 57mm ZiS-4.
The alternative route is also very viable, as the 57mm ZiS-4, while lacking high alpha, has good penetration, accuracy, RoF, and aim time when compared to the 85mm F-30.
I strongly recommend picking up one of these two weapons. While it is possible to go straight to the KV-1, you will be making both your T-28 and KV-1 grinds much more
painful.
Experience Total: 19,700
Alternative Experience Total: 17,300
Tank Cost: 135,000
Credit Total: 141,910
Alternative Credit Total: 87,270
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 25,305
Tank Cost: 135,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 102,840
KV-1
Spoiler
You will need to make a choice about which tank line to pursue once you reach the KV-1:
The IS-4 line emphasizes armor over speed and maneuverability, and has a number of very accurate weapons (for Russian guns at least)
The IS-7 line is generally less heavily armored than their counterparts, but are usually the fastest heavies in their tier. Their guns hit very hard, but reload slowly and are not as
accurate.
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Love it or hate it, having the 57mm 413 makes you much more dangerous than the stock 76mm ZiS-5 and its .46 accuracy. The 85mm F-30 (if you don't already have it from
the T-28) provides a nice alternative if you prefer a bit more alpha.
I personally hate the 122mm U-11, but many Russian Heavy drivers swear by it, and it is useable on a huge number of tanks. This is where the KV-1 really shines, as all of its
upgraded weapons fit different playstyles.
Having the extra 20 armor on the turret pushes your protection into the "iffy" zone for most tier 5 gun's penetration. Beyond that, it just comes down to which heavy line you choose
Tank Cost: 390,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 122,260
IS-4 Line
Note: I haven't really used any of these tanks, so any help you can provide about solid research paths would be appreciated!
T-150
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: Currently Unavailable
Tank Cost: 880,000
Credit Total: Currently Unavailable
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 84,950
Tank Cost: 880,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 161,690
KV-3
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
While I don't have research guide available, I do know that the 107mm ZiS-6 is a viable gun, even when compared with the KV-3's top weapon, the 122mm D-25T. This allows you
to focus on getting secondary modules before getting weapons without seriously compromising your combat effectiveness, should you so desire.
It is also a good idea to pick up the R113 radio if you can afford the experience, as it is used on a wide variety of high tier tanks.
Experience Total: Currently Unavailable
Tank Cost: 1,390,000
Credit Total: Currently Unavailable
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 178,090
Tank Cost: 1,390,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 307,070
KV-4
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Note: The KV-4's 107mm ZiS-24 is not used on any other tank. You will not be able to use it on the ST-1, oddly enough. That being said, it is a very powerful weapon and has
the highest penetration of any non-premium tier 8 in the game.
Experience Total: Currently Unavailable
Tank Cost: 2,340,000
Credit Total: Currently Unavailable
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 317,600
Tank Cost: 2,340,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 384,300
ST-1
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Unfortunately I know very little about this tank. As of when I am writing this, i have never even fought one.
I am confused by the presence of the BL-9, as I would think that the ST-1 should mount the 107mm ZiS-24 from the KV-4.
Experience Total: Currently Unavailable
Tank Cost: 3,561,000
Credit Total: Currently Unavailable
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 379,600
Tank Cost: 3,561,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 557,700
IS-7 Line
KV-1S
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
Some players may recommend going for the 122mm U-11 or 76mm S-54 before getting the engine. You are welcome to do this, but understand that the KV-1S handles more like a
medium than a heavy, and its survival is directly tied to its ability to get out of the line of fire. (Don't depend on your armor, because you don't have any)
I strongly recommend picking up the 122mm D2-5T; not only is it useable on the IS, but it also provides excellent training for how to play the IS.
Experience Total: 79,500
Alternative Experience Total: 83,250
Tank Cost: 850,000
Credit Total: 171,900
Alternative Credit Total: 231,820
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 156,650
Tank Cost: 850,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 153,870
IS
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
I only recommend picking up the 100mm D-10T if you didn't research the 122mm D2-5T on the KV-1S. If you did, feel free to skip the D-10T (although many tanks in the
medium line make use of it.)
Getting the D-25T isn't required, but it is a great opportunity for parallel grinding. I.E., research the IS-3, and then grind toward the D-25T on your IS while saving the experience
you gain on your IS-3 for more important unlocks like the BL-9.
You don't need the 12RT radio, but its going to be embarrassing when need artillery support only to realize they can't see you because of your 440 meter signal range.
You are going to be in this tank and the tanks that follow it for a very long time. If you think a module or equipment would make your grind easier, by all means, get it; you'll
definitely get your money's worth out of it.
Experience Total: 122,700
Tank Cost: 1,424,000
Credit Total: 189,460
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 196,925
Tank Cost: 1,424,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 282,410
IS-3
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
I guess you can grind to the IS-8 without the BL-9 if you want. . . Enjoy bouncing off Jadgpz IV's. If you've been saving your free experience, the BL-9 and the subsequent
M-62-2T would be great places to spend it.
Experience Total: 380,000
Tank Cost: 2,568,500
Credit Total: 238,030
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 313,325
Tank Cost: 2,568,500
Elite Module Credit Total: 372,940
IS-8
Spoiler
Speed Grind
Spoiler
While I currently own (and very much enjoy) this tank, it was elite when I received it, so I know nothing about good research paths to take; however, as this tank depends heavily
on its maneuverability and speed to survive, I imagine that emphasizing the tracks and engine would probably be helpful, especially if you already have the BL-9.
Experience Total: Currently Unavailable
Tank Cost: 3,531,000
Credit Total: Currently Unavailable
Elite Grind
Spoiler
Experience Total: 385,250
Tank Cost: 3,531,000
Elite Module Credit Total: 564,900
II. Tactics
Overview
Here I'll try to share my own insights and the insights of others concerning the tanks in the Russian Heavy tree. (I'll also try to give credit where it is due) In general, Russian tanks
trade single nearly-invincible areas (US turrets, German upper glacis plates) for overall protection decent protection. Their guns tend to have very high alpha damage (i.e., they do a
great deal of damage per shot) but have long reloads and, in some cases, comparatively poor accuracy.
Due to the above listed traits, Russian heavies tend to excel in two specific areas, namely brawling and peek-a-boom.
Always remember the basics:
Always use any cover when available. Nothing makes a T30 rage like watching his 155mm shell get absorbed by the conveniently placed picket fence you hid behind.
Appropriately angle your tank. This changes from tank to tank (and will be discussed further in the individual guides) and can greatly enhance a tank's effective armor.
Allow your reticule to settle. Due to the long aim times on Russian vehicles, players will often "clip" their shoots, I.E., shooting before the reticule has settled. This greatly
decreases your accuracy, especially as your actual reticule (server reticule) is even less zeroed than your client one. (Press CAPS LOCK + 0 to see your server reticule in a match)
Use consumables. Yes, they cost a lot, but especially after tier 5 (and even during tier 5), having a fire extinguisher can make the difference between an annoying flank hit and
death.
Don't get into open slugfests - This doesn't usually apply to higher tier players, but I often see low tier players simply sitting out in the open trading shots. This is bad. This gives
your enemy time to aim, allows others you might not see time to shoot, and exposes you to artillery. Don't do it.
Stay with the team. Sometimes it is tempting to be a lone wolf. Sometimes (often) a team will leave a flank unguarded. Get some players to come with you if you can, but dying a
glorious death because you split from the team doesn't earn you equally glorious experience. And remember, experience is what we are after here.
Play the objective. Killing the entire enemy team is fun, and sometimes even necessary, but in general, you will get more experience for capping than you will for getting in one
more shot. Remember, you will get the same amount of experience for being in the circle, regardless of whether you cap 1% or 70%. Everyone in the circle when cap completes is
Use the minimap. This is the best tool you have to keep you informed on the battlefield situation, neglect it at your (and your team's) own risk.
DON'T SUICIDE - Just because you are stock and at the bottom of the tier doesn't mean you can't be useful. Another tank in the cap circle can make the difference between a
win and a loss. Passive scouting can inflict huge damage on the enemy team. Even tracking an otherwise impenetrable tank can really mess up his day. Just don't suicide.
Tank Weakspot Basics
Spoiler
Gun Mantlet - Don't shoot here. Seriously, it's a waste of your time. Many tanks have gun mantlets that exceed 300mm of armor.
Cupola - The 'go-to' area in close combat. If you can't seem to penetrate a tank anywhere else, shoot the cupola. You'll probably penetrate, take
some HP, and kill the commander to boot.
Driver's hatch - Easy to hit on some tanks, not even very visible on others. If you penetrate here, you'll kill the driver.
MG Ball - Often a weakspot on otherwise difficult to penetrate hulls, such as the Tiger 2 pictured here, and the T32 to name a few.
Turret Face - Not always a weakspot, but I will occasionally refer to this area, so it helps to know where and what it is. Notably, does not have the
same armor value as the gun mantlet.
Lower Glacis - Often a weakspot. (I would say 'always', but there are a couple of exceptions) German tanks in particular are weak here. In
general, if you can shoot the lower glacis, it is a good idea to do so.
Tactics Separation
As this is a grinding guide, the tanks you are driving will often not be at the top of their game, and the tactics you need to use to succeed with change. Also, matchmaker will not
always be kind to you ('usually won't be' may be a more accurate description) To represent this, the tactics guide for each tank is broken up into several sections:
Early (stock) Grind - for how to use that ugly little matchbox you just bought that has the nerve to call itself a tank.
Non-stock Grind - for that grind to the next tank.
Bottom tier - what to do when you are the minnow in the pond.
Mid tier - Kinda self explanatory (though they all are).
Top tier - how to use your godly powers to smite the enemies of the Motherland in the most ruthless manner possible.
Note: the Bottom, Mid, and Top tier grind tactics may not change much for some tanks. MS-1
Spoiler
Overview
The MS-1 is, in my humble opinion, the best tier 1 of the four nations. Granted, being the best tier 1 in World of Tanks is like being the best Cheerio in an industrial toolbox filled with
hammers, but still, it can bring the hurt on it's fellows. It has a decent weapon (the 47mm), a small profile, the best armor for its tier, and a frontally mounted turret. However, it is
also very slow (though not as bad as the Renault FT), has very low HP, and has such a bad view range (even compared to other tier 1s) that it has problems seeing the toilet it is
peeing in.
What this all adds up to is a tank that does really well with others, and really poorly by itself. Stray too far from the group, and you won't even be able to see who is shooting you.
I won't be separating out the tactics section here because, well, this is a frickin' MS-1. It should take two battles to get through, maybe only one if you win.
T-26
Spoiler
Overview
I had a very rough time with this tank, though I didn't have to play it very long. It's slow, under-armored, and under-gunned. You have to deal with Hotchkiss H35s, Pzkpfw IIs,
Tetrachs, and BT-2s, all of which will tear you apart if you aren't careful. In my experience, the biggest threat is those damn machine guns. Your armor is so weak that most tier 2
autoloading automatics can tear right through it, and many tanks this tier will mount them.
Stock
Not much to say. As always, stay with the group (preferably behind the group). If you get separated or are being hunted by BT-2s, push back against a rock or wall. That will
prevent them from being able to do much circling.
Also, if the abysmal speed is just driving you insane, you could pick up one or both of the engines; the second will increase your p:w ratio by about 40%.
Non-Stock
With the 45mm 20k you should be able to penetrate most of the opponents you face, though French tanks and T18's will still give you trouble. Against French tanks, my best advice
would be to either get behind them, or run away.
The armor isn't any different in the back, but it tends to be less sloped, and you stand a decent chance of setting their engine on fire. As for running away, there isn't much slower
out there than low tier French tanks, especially up hills.
If you deviate from the grinding guide and choose to pick up the better turret, you can hull-down with a bit more confidence, as the second turret has twice (30 :\ ) the armor as
the stock turret. The biggest selling point is the +26m view range. Personally I don't think it is worth it, but it's up to you.
Bottom Tier
These are dangerous matches for the T-26. You may be facing artillery and tank destroyers, both of which have far better weapons than you do. The T18 can one-shot you
with little difficultly, for example. Trailing behind the main group and killing early rushers is a great way to pick up some experience.
Top TierYou're likely facing a bunch of tier 1s, with a smattering of tier 2s (and the requisite premium Hotchkiss -.- , or Pzkpfw 38H as they are called) Despite the fact that
you generally have more firepower than many tanks on the enemy team, you armor is actually worse than it was in the MS-1. Play cautiously, and exploit the fact that many
tier 1 players like to recklessly rush.
T-46
Spoiler
Overview
The T-46 is a strange beast. The first time I played it I hated it so much that I free exp'd past it. When I went back later to get the T-50, I was surprised to find that I loved it.
Part of the difference was that I was a much more experienced tanker the second time around, but part was also that the T-46 had the weapons unlocked.
Stock
Ugh. Essentially a T-26 with much worse matchmaking. You're armor is still worthy of a tier 1, but now you can face tier 5s if you are unlucky. On the plus side however, the T-46
has considerably more get-up-and-go than it's predecessor, even when stock. You to carefully choose which targets you engage, because a significant portion of the battlefield will
be outside of your penetration capacity and/or will be able to kill you so fast that your ability to penetrate is irrelevant.
Frankly, a stock tier 3 is pretty much food for everything above it. All tier 4s and 5s can kill you in two shots, and most tier 3s, when elite, can do so as well. Learn to play
defensively, and keep an eye on that minimap.
Non-Stock
Having an upgraded gun for the T-46 makes all the difference in the world. You are still fairly slow, still blind, and still squishy, but at least now you are a slow, blind, squishy tank
with teeth. Specifically, the 76mm L-10, when loading HE, is devastating to low tier tanks. This is because many have armor just as bad as you do, and will be penetrated by
the HE shell causing massive damage, if not destroying them outright.
You'll still have problems against the higher tiers, but with the L-10 you will at least be able to harass them. Well placed shots can break critical modules like guns or turret rings,
allowing your more powerful teammates to finish them off.
Alternatively, the 45mm VT-42 provides an accurate, high penetration option if you choose to unlock it; just remember that it is unnecessary to move onward in the tree.
I personally don't recommend the 37mm automatic. It has a long reload and low damage/penetration/accuracy, making it less useful than it might otherwise appear. Note: I have not
used the 37mm Automatic since the French patch, so it may have changed functionality since I dismounted it.
The 10R radio can also be quite useful if you choose to unlock it (and I recommend you do, either here or on the T-28) as it will help artillery see what you are seeing, and allow
them to provide fire support.
Bottom Tier
Not much is worse than being tier 3 in a tier 5 match. Play very cautiously, and don't get too pissed off when the Bison decides to arty you rather than the KV-1 you were hiding
behind.
Mid Tier
Primary threats in tier 4 include the B1, the T-28 (yay!), and pretty much all the tank destroyers (though for varying reasons). The B1 is dangerous because his armor is impressive
and his gun, while terrible, is still enough to shred your paper-mache hide. Shoot at his treads at about a 30% angle, at the groves above and below the howitzer on the front, or
run away.
The T-28 mounts a truly massive gun for tier 4. With AP he will two shot you, and with HE a one-shot is very likely. Also, he can easily ram you to death. On the plus side he
is easy to penetrate, even for the T-46.
The various TDs are all dangerous in their own right. The T40 has either the much feared 105mm howitzer with 410 average damage, or the M1A1, which can two shot you in
less than 7 seconds, all while shooting from 400 meters away. Fortunately, T-40 is open topped, making HE do much more damage, and the listed armor values for the front apply to
the lower glacis only.
The Hezter is a completely different problem entirely. While it is actually more near-sighted than you are, it has impressively sloped frontal armor and can also mount a 105mm
howitzer. This tank tends to ambush at close range. If you are forced to fight one frontally, aim for the lower glacis, it is quite a bit weaker.
Top Tier
With the L-10, you are, for the first time, a terrible threat to pretty much every tank on the field. Many tier 2s can be one-shot by your HE shells, and even the tier 3s will be hurting (assuming they survive). As always in the T-46 however, remember that your armor is horrifically bad.
T-28
Spoiler
Overview
The T-28 is the first tank other than the MS-1 that I really enjoyed in the Russian line. A combination of decent speed with impressive firepower make for a dangerous vehicle in the right hands. On the downside, the armor is still terrible, and the T-28's profile is absolutely massive for it's tier. This means that it plays best when used as a flanker rather than a breakthrough tank. The T-28 will also usually be facing artillery, against which it is very weak. Keep that in mind when leaving cover.
Stock
With even worse penetration than the stock T-26, AP is not a good option. Loading HE will probably serve you better. Your view range has marginally improved, but your radio range is still abysmal. Even stock however, you are still faster than your predecessors, which is nice.
Due to your improved speed and slightly better survivability (slightly better armor and more HP) flanking becomes a viable option. Opponents are far less likely to bounce your HE shells from the sides or rear, and on some tanks you may even penetrate.
Non-Stock
The route your choose to follow in the grinding guide will dictate how you play the T-28. If you go for the 85mm F-30, you have a tank that excels at peak-a-boom, but does poorly on the move and at longer ranges. This means you will probably want to stick with the heavies, using speed and cover to exploit openings in the enemies offensive line.
If you choose to pick up the 57mm, you now have a tank that is not very good at peak-a-boom due to much lower alpha, but is a much better sniper, and can tear apart enemies who are stuck out of cover. While you can go with the heavies, choosing to follow the more mobile medium routes may be a better option, as heavy cover use is less common and there is a better chance you can bring your superior rate of fire to bear.
Bottom Tier
You're pretty much a glorified scout in these matches, but without the associated camo values or view range. If you have either the 57mm ZiS-4 or the 85mm F-30, then you will probably be able to damage any given tank in the match, provided you get the right angle on them. Provide fire support for your bigger friends and watch for pushes by lighter fast tanks.
Mid Tier
You're probably only facing tier 5 at the highest in these matches, all of which you can inflict serious damage on as long as they aren't shooting at you. The KV-1 is probably the hardest target you will face, penetration wise. Your best bet is to hit him in the engine (you might even start a fire!) Aim carefully on flank shots however, the KV-1's tracks absorb an unreasonable amount of incoming fire.
Be aware of reload times too. The BDR with the top gun has a 8+ second reload, while the KV-1 can have a reload ranging from over eleven seconds to less than two. Knowing what weapon your opponent is mounting tells you how you should engage them, when you are safe to shoot, and how likely they are to penetrate/one-shot you.
High Tier
Watch out for artillery (especially the Bison and the Grille), and tank destroyers (to who you like a giant experience pinata). Regardless of what gun you are mounting, most tanks will melt under your firepower, and the very few that don't (the B1 or Matilda for example) you can easily outrun.
KV-1
Spoiler
Overview
Oh the glorious KV-1, how I love you. The KV-1 is a devastatingly powerful tier 5 tank, and even in it's "nerfed" form is still capable of bringing pain to any tank it is matched against.
Stock
There are slideshows that move faster than a stock KV-1, and even if you unlocked the F-30 from the T-28, you can't use it yet. Worse still, it is possible for you to be matched against tier 8s, which include such nightmares as the Lowe and KV-5. Loading HE and sticking with your heavy friends are pretty much your only options early on.
Non-Stock
Once again, the weapon you choose dictates your playstyle in this tank. If you are following the guide and unlock the 57mm, it will open a world of DPS pain you never before imagined. With a 2.3 second reload and 112 penetration, you can either become a very annoying sniper, or a very scary pusher. Because your damage per shot is low, you'll need to make sure you can keep hitting your targets. Starting out with track shots is not a bad idea.
If you go for the F-30, well, it is pretty much like a F-30 equipped T-28 with much more armor. Go play some peak-a-boom.
If you get the 122mm U-11, welcome to World of Derpage. You'll generally need to be close to have the U-11 hit consistently, but when it does, ouch. The U-11 also has the advantage of being essentially unbouncable. (KV-5s will occasionally pull it off, but not many others will) As long as you don't ricochet, you'll probably do damage. I don't use the U-11 simply because I prefer more consistent preformance from my guns, but many players swear by it. If the damage potential is worth the poor accuracy, long aim times, and long reloads to you, by all mean use the U-11.
Bottom Tier
Stick with/behind your heavy friends, snipe, and hide when you get unwanted (read: any) attention. Most tanks up to and including tier 8 can be penetrated by ~110 penetration weapons, assuming you manage to hit their weakspots. I don't advise messing with tier 8s in general though, they're notoriously dangerous, especially against low tiers. KV-5s in particular are frustrating. Track them for artillery, and hide if they look your way.
Mid Tier
Tier six is not a particularly stellar tier, and many of the tanks that inhabit it are relatively weak. Exceptions to this are the Jumbo Sherman, which has irritatingly good armor, and the AMX 13 75, which is just terrifying, though rare. The M18 can also potentially make your life miserable, as it is fast enough to disappear before you are ever able to return fire. On the plus side, Hellcat armor is worse than some tier 2s, so if you land a hit, it is almost guaranteed to stick.
AMX 13 75's are why you stay with the group. If you are forced to fight one alone, try and track it. Should you survive his drum, you 13 seconds to kill him before he starts firing again.
High Tier
Ohhh deary. Even after getting nerfed, the tier 5 KV is still a dominant force in its tier. You're difficult for anything outside of tank destroyers and the BDR to penetrate, and you can penetrate all of your opponent easily in return. Unlike the tanks before this, when you are top tier, you are the spearhead. You should be countering enemy heavies, pushing/defending the central lines, and generally acting like a big wall of Russian steel. If their heavies break past you, it is your fault, because you should have stopped it.
I discovered and much appreciated your American heavies thread a week or so ago, just before I got my T29. Most of the information I had gleaned already, but I still found it quite useful for my planned ascent up the American heavy line.
I've got an IS right now and think I want to go for the IS-4 (even 7, perhaps) before the patch changes, so I'd use and appreciate a Russian guide as well.
Only problem is that I have so many lines I want to run, I'll never have time for them all!
I discovered and much appreciated your American heavies thread a week or so ago, just before I got my T29. Most of the information I had gleaned already, but I still found it quite useful for my planned ascent up the American heavy line.
I've got an IS right now and think I want to go for the IS-4 (even 7, perhaps) before the patch changes, so I'd use and appreciate a Russian guide as well.
Only problem is that I have so many lines I want to run, I'll never have time for them all!
Per Overlord: "6.7 update is planned for release on September 15, 2011. The exact EU and US downtime will be announced later."
Hope you have no life because you're going to have to grind all night buddy. I read that the downtime is scheduled for 4 am.
Read your American grind guide....pretty cool.....If you're starting a Russian one let me know...I'll help to some extent. I went from the MS1 to the IS4 in little over 3 months and this without premium and playing only for 2hrs a day.
I was tempted to vote that I didn't like you or your guides (jk!),
I think it's a worthy endeavor to create a guide for others.
With that said, the Russian heavy line is much easier to handle than the USA heavy line and having gone through both, I can offer my help in whichever way possible if you need.
Read your American grind guide....pretty cool.....If you're starting a Russian one let me know...I'll help to some extent. I went from the MS1 to the IS4 in little over 3 months and this without premium and playing only for 2hrs a day.
hiroshi_tea, on Sep 14 2011 - 23:08, said:
I was tempted to vote that I didn't like you or your guides (jk!),
I think it's a worthy endeavor to create a guide for others.
With that said, the Russian heavy line is much easier to handle than the USA heavy line and having gone through both, I can offer my help in whichever way possible if you need.
I'll probably make a preliminary guide and then have you all look it over
I have my own views about the Soviet line (though I am only at the IS-1), but I would gladly read a well-written guide! Since it gives another person's perspective.
Oh god yes I would love this. I have both the KV3 and KV1S, nothing is worse than having these on stock >.>
Would be nice to know some hints and tips to get through them that I may have never thought of. Especially in the order you should unlock new parts. A big question I have is do the new engines help much with such little boosts to horse power? Maybe you should include all of this in the guide if you make it. Cheers!
A soviet one would be great as there are not only best module paths, but also different trees ie kv-1s to contend with. Will be owrht a read if you do decide to go ahead
It would be great, i use your guide and timetable to get my t34 (still t32 now). Without your guide for us line, i will make lot of mistake in using free experience.
Just got my IS4 tonight. If you need any help with the grinding the Russian Heavy line guide let me know. I found your grinding the American heavy line Guide really useful. Thank you.
I was considering making an *ultimate* "Tier 1- Tier 10 Russian Guide: Grinding from the MS-1 to the IS-7 with minimal stress and maximum fun". I already have a guide on the KV-1S somewhere around here, so I'm already off to a head start. if you want to start it or if you want me to start it, either way I'm willing to help with it.
Hi there. I have just finished reading your US heavy tank guide and plan on following from the E2 to try and get the T30 before the patch next year. But I am also trying to grind the USSR line to the IS4 before the patch comes as well. Have you started the guide yet? I am finding the KV3 tank very tedious to grind and have just unlocked the 100mm. Would really love to read a guide on where to from here.
